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Daewoo Matiz

Manufactured by the South Korean automaker GM Daewoo since 1998, the Matiz is a 5-door city car designed by Italdesign Giugiaro. The company sold more than 2.3 million Matiz units from 1998-2006.

435 Questions

How do you check and change a heater matrix on a Daewoo Matiz?

Matrix!?What is a heater "Matrix"? do you mean an element? i have never seen an electic elementy in a automotive interior heater, but i will admit that i don't know that they don't exist---but have never heared of a part named a "Matrix"...i think you may find a small radiator like vessel that takes coolant from the engines cooling system via a black rubber pipe (probably about 1 & 1/4 inch's diameter) through a valve, that is connected and controlled by the heater temperature dial/slide switch, that varies the volume of heated engine coolant that can circulate through the small radiatior like vessel that is in the interior ventilation air box cavity/enclosure. AnswerHeater matrix / heater core / heater rad they're all the same thing, the small impossible to get to approx 8" square little mini radiator that is nicely installed at the very back of the dashboard always. To check it, I suppose you will be looking for signs like a quick burst of hot when you select hot but then it quickly fades to cold again, that could well be a sign of a blocked heater rad. Wet carpets in the footwells could mean a leaking heater rad. Steamy windows that just cant be demisted - now that's a definite sign of a leaking heater rad and also the smell of coolant inside the car. The only check you might do on it is to check for it being blocked I suppose with a garden hose, you would need to take the hoses of the inlet/outlet ports in the engine bay and stick the garden hose to one of the ports, if the water shoots back out at you through the same hole then the rad is blocked I would say. Removing the heater rad now that's a task. My friend and I did one in 4 hrs flat last Saturday and I still cant believe we (he) managed it that fast. He removed the centre console and then the black trim around the radio and instrument cluster. Then he disconnected the instrument cluster and removed it too, the radio also landed in the back seat along with the previously mentioned stuff. Next came the steering wheel and what to do about the airbag which was worrying us. He removed the glovebox and up above it is a yellow connector which he reckoned was the wire for the airbags, then he unbolted the passenger side airbag unit from the 'tie bar' leaving the passenger airbag mounted in the dashboard plastic. In the end we couldn't get the wheel off without a puller which we didnt have so the wheel stayed. This obviously makes removing the one piece dashboard impossible so having removed all the dashboard screws and bolts we just did our best to get in under it and get the job done. Next the centre steel unit which holds everything together in the mid section of the dash was unbolted (8 bolts). Pulling this now only forward enough to work behind at the final hurdle was possible. The big black plastic box unit (heater module) which can clearly be seen from the minute you start this job can now be unbolted from the bulkhead. When you've done that you need to split it down the middle by undoing the 8 or so screws all round it - its a bit like cracking a big Easter egg open down the seam. That done, split the box open, whip out the heater rad/matrix/core, lash in the replacement and put the box back together minding how the flaps should all be located properly as you do it. Now its just a case of putting it all back the way it was. The way we did it was definitely not as they recommend in the manual and I cant claim to have treated the airbag situation as we should have but cars are cars and they gotta be fixed and we don't all have the funds to be marching off down to a main dealer every time theres a fault. We got away without removing the wheel and the bags and the dash so maybe you can too. We were working on a M100 '00 Matiz. Best of luck to anyone who does it, just get your head together and tear into it, don't be doing the stopping and staring thing I am prone to, that's exactly the reason I enlisted my pal who doesnt hang about on a job.

Edit Raymond Snijkers:

I am currently changing (or trying to change) the heater matrix on a 2000 Matiz. I'd like to add to the above that there is no need to split the black box. You can simply slide the matrix out of the back of the box. There are two plastic 'hooks' at the back that hold it in place.

For me the biggest challenge is loosening the two radiator hoses from the matrix. These can only be reached via the engine compartment. But then the engine is in the way. Does anyone have an idea how to solve that?

Grant revan - Edit

Hi- I have just removed the entire dashboard to get at the matrix. You don't need a puller for the steering wheel - just bang the wheel a few times with a rubber mallet and then give a big pull - it will come off - honest. You can then remove the dashboard and the metal frame in front of the the heater unit and if you undo the 4 bolts securing it (the heater unit)to the bulk head it just lifts out leaving the matrix sticking out in mid air. You need a hose clip removal tool (flexible) to undo the hose clips in the engine bay - they are murder to get at with a pair of pliers - I have tried. You can buy them on eBay for about £20. NB you need the correct size torx bit to undo the airbags on both sides and you need the anti-tamper version which is quite rare. You do not need to remove the control stalks by the way, just the steering wheel. The dash will just fit over the stalks. Make sure you have the torx bit (its a 40 or a 45 I think) and the hose clamp tool before you try this job or you will not get it done in one go.

Who is Fritz Weatherbee?

Fritz Weatherbee is a news reporter for New Hampshire Chronicle, and the man.

How do you remove the window crank on a 2001 Daewoo Matiz?

You'll need a circlip tool. Basically, this one is a flat piece of metal about 2 mm thick, about 2.5 to 3 cms wide with a piece out of the middle of one end about 8mm wide and 20mm deep . Imagine a "C" with a very long back. You slide it down the back of the crank arm with the open end going around each side of the armiture. It goes between the crank arm and the coils. The tool pushes the circlip off and the crank arm pulls straight off. Good luck. Dean

Where is the Daewoo matiz main relay located?

Main relay box and fuse box is located at the left side corner (near left bonnet hinge).

Where is code reader connector daewoo matiz 796cc?

It is right below the driver wheel, above the pedals

How do you remove a inlet manifold on a matiz?

everyone says it's very fiddly. replacement costs 200+200 labour

How do you remove the radio from a matiz?

In a 2009 matiz you must gently pop out the housing (silver) from above the heating controls all the way up to the dials. It is one piece. Start at the bottom and move gently upwards. When this is done you will see the screws to remove both left and right. There are brackets screwed into the sides of the head unit which you will need to remove also. If you want to replace with a different model the bad news is you will need a new housing and cable adaptor (from halfords for about £12). Its a pain in the backside but can be done. Once you have the new parts, follow your common sense and then gently replace the housing from the top first and then applying equal pressure all the way down until it clicks fully in. Hope this helps, wish I had found an answer before I started! :)

How can you turn the airbag off in a matiz?

I guess you can remove the Fuse that makes the airbag work!

Open the hood and you'll see a fuse box on the top right hand side under the hood.

Open the Fuse Box and you'll see the Fuse Map under it.

Check which Fuse makes the Airbags work. Find the fuse and remove it.

This will stop your Airbags from working.

But in the first place, I suggest Airbags is s good safety feature.

Let it be the way it is!

Engine diagram Daewoo matiz?

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

SECTION 1B

SOHC ENGINE MECHANICAL

CAUTION: Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing or installing any electrical unit or when a

tool or equipment could easily come in contact with exposed electrical terminals. Disconnecting this cable

will help prevent personal injury and damage to the vehicle. The ignition must also be in B unless otherwise

noted.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Description and Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-2

Engine Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-2

Engine Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-2

Cylinder Head and Valve Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-2

Engine Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-3

Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-3

Connecting Rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-3

Piston, Piston Ring and Piston Pin . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-3

Timing Belt and Pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-4

Engine Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-4

Component Locator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-5

Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-5

Engine Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-6

Manifold & Air Flow System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-7

Timing Belt & Engine Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-8

Diagnostic Information and Procedure . . . . . . . 1B-9

Compression Pressure Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-9

Oil Pressure Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-9

Adjustment of Valve Clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-10

Ignition Timing Check and Adjustment

(Typical) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-11

Valve Timing Check and Adjustment . . . . . . . . 1B-12

Repair Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-14

On-Vehicle Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-14

Air Filter Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-14

Air Filter Element . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-15

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Hose

and Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-15

Intake Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-16

Exhaust Manifold (Typical) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-18

Exhaust Manifold (Euro III) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-20

Timing Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-21

Oil Pan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-23

Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-24

Distributor Case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-26

Cylinder Head and Gasket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-28

Engine Mount Damping Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-32

Engine Mount Front Damping Bush . . . . . . . . . 1B-34

Engine Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-35

Unit Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-47

Cylinder Head and Valve Train

Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-47

Engine Block Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-59

Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-71

Engine Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-71

Fastener Tightening Specifications . . . . . . . . . . 1B-73

Special Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-75

Special Tools Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1B-75

1B - 2 SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

ENGINE TYPE

The engine is 4-cycle, water-cooled, in-line 3 cylinders

with displacement of 796cc (68.5×72.0mm) (2.70×

2.83 in.).

Engine model

(Specifications)

F8C Type SOHC /

2 Valve (MPI)

Maximum power (kw/rpm) 37.5 / 6,000

Maximum torque (Nm/rpm) 68.6 / 4,600

Compression ratio 9.3 : 1

D102B001

ENGINE LUBRICATION

The engine lubrication is of the wetsump method to draw

up the oil forced by the oil pump. The oil pump is of a

trochoid type, and mounted on crankshaft at crankshaft

pulley side (a). Oil is drawn up through oil pump pickup

tube (b) and passed through pump (c) to oil filter (d). The

filtered oil flows into two paths in engine block. In one

path (e), oil reaches crankshaft journal bearings. Oil

from crankshaft journal bearings is supplied to connecting

rod bearings by means of intersecting passages

drilled in crankshaft, and then injected from a small hole

provided on big end of connecting rod to lubricate piston

(f), rings, and cylinder wall. In another path (g), oil goes

up to cylinder head and lubricates rocker arm (i), valve

(j), camshaft (k), etc. through the oil hole provided on the

rocker arm shaft (h).

D102B002

CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVE TRAIN

The cylinder head is made of cast aluminum alloy for

better strength in hardness with lightweight, and camshaft

(k) and rocker arm shaft (h) arranged in-line support.

D102B003

The combustion chambers are formed into the manifold

combustion chambers with increased squish parts for

better combustion efficiency and its intake and exhaust

SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL 1B- 3

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

parts are installed in the cross flow arrangement. The

rocker arm (i) operates in seesaw motion to close and

open the intake and exhaust valves (j) with camshaft by

turning the rocker arm shaft of each intake and exhaust

part.

ENGINE BLOCK

As the largest part of the engine components. the block

(l) has all the necessary parts attached to outer surface

of it.

On the inside surface of block, there are bore surfaces

by horning, which are cylinders, and on the periphery of

the cylinders, there are the passages to prevent the

over-heated and to lubricate the engine block.

CRANKSHAFT

The crankshaft (m) is to convert the rectilinear motion

into the rotation motion through the connecting rod (n)

which transmits the power generated by combustion.

On the one side of it, oil pump, crankshaft pulley and

timing belt pulley are attached, and oil seal housing and

flywheel are on the other side.

A special steel of high grade cast iron is used for the material

to stand the bending load and distortion. The material

of the main bearing (o) is aluminum alloy. The split

thrust bearings (p) are inserted in the journal bearing

part (No.3).

D102B004

CONNECTING ROD

The connecting rods (n) are made of forged steel, and

its section is typed "I" with its big end connected to

crankshaft (m) and its small end to piston pin to transmit

the power.

The big end is detachable, and its upper and lower parts

are fastened by bolting after the metal bearings (q) are

inserted.

PISTON, PISTON RING AND PISTON

PIN

Piston

The piston (r) is of the open skirt type and its crown is

exposed in the combustion chamber to generate power.

Its land and skirt parts are made of coat aluminum alloy

which is light and has excellent heat conductivity in order

to meet its continuous and high speed reciprocation

movement.

Piston Ring

It is composed of two compression rings (s) and one oil

ring (t) and installed between the grooves of the piston

to make the high speed reciprocating movement maintaining

a remarkable air tightness as well as cylinders. It

is a critical parts to affect the compression pressure, oil

consumption, compression, blow by pressure and engine

performance.

Piston Pin

The pin (u) is not fixed to the piston or connecting rod

and its both ends are assembled by the circlip (v) in the

full floating type. The pin is used to transmit the power

from the crown part of piston to connecting rod.

D102B005

1B -4 SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

TIMING BELT AND PULLEY

The timing belt connects the camshaft timing pulley (w)

and the crankshaft timing pulley (x). The timing belt

coordinates the crankshaft and the camshaft and keeps

them synchronized. The timing belt also turns the coolant

pump (y). The timing belt and the pulleys are toothed

so that there is no slippage between them. There is a

tension pulley (z) that maintains the correct timing belt

tension. The timing belt is made of a tough reinforced

rubber similar to that used on the serpentine drive belt.

The timing belt requires no lubrication.

D102B006

ENGINE MOUNT

This is to absorb or reduce the engine vibration and impact

from the wheeled road. Engine mount is attached to

the engine-front side, the engine-right side and the engine-

rear side and one transaxle mount is attached to

the transaxle side.

D102B007

D102B008

SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL 1B- 5

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

COMPONENT LOCATOR

CYLINDER HEAD

D12B4011

1 Oil Filler Cap

2 Cylinder Head Cover

3 Cylinder Head Cover (Euro III)

4 Distributor Case

5 Camshaft

6 Exhaust Rocker Arm

7 Cylinder Head Gasket

8 Cylinder Head

9 Intake Rocker Arm

10 Exhaust Valve

11 Intake Valve

1B -6 SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

ENGINE BLOCK

D21B0011

1 Oil Level Gauge Stick

2 Piston

3 Connecting Rod

4 Engine Block

5 Oil Filter

6 Flywheel

7 Crankshaft

8 Oil Pan

9 Oil Pump Strainer

10 Oil Pump Assembly

SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL 1B- 7

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

MANIFOLD & AIR FLOW SYSTEM

D21B0021

1 Intake Manifold

2 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Pipe

3 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve and

Solenoid

4 Throttle Body Assembly

5 Air Filter Assembly

6 Resonator

7 Snorkel

8 Oxygen Sensor

9 Exhaust Manifold

10 Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield

11 Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield (Euro III)

12 Exhaust Manifold (Euro III)

1B -8 SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

TIMING BELT & ENGINE MOUNT

D12B4041

1 Engine Mount Damping Block

2 Engine Mount Intermediate Bracket

3 Engine Mount Brace Bracket

4 Transaxle Mount Bracket

5 Transaxle Mount Damping Block

6 Engine Mount Front Bracket

7 Engine Mount Front Damping Bush

8 Timing Belt

9 Timing Belt Tensioner

10 Crankshaft Gear

11 Timing Belt Upper Front Cover

12 Timing Belt Lower Front Cover

13 Crankshaft Pulley

14 Engine Mount Lower Bracket

15 Engine Mount Upper Bracket

SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL 1B- 9

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION AND PROCEDURE

COMPRESSION PRESSURE CHECK

Tools Required

09915-64510 Compression Pressure Gauge

Check the compression pressure in the following procedures:

1. Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature

(Cooling temperature : 80-90C (176-194F)).

2. Stop the engine and then remove the high tension

cable and the spark plug.

3. Disconnect the distributor optical sensor connector.

4. Install the compression pressure gauge 09915-64510

(a) in the hole of spark plug.

D12B301A

5. Disengage the clutch in Neutral (to lighten starting

load on engine upon cranking), and depress the accelerator

all the way to make the throttle fully open.

6. Crank the engine with the starting motor, and read the

highest pressure on the compression pressure gauge.

The difference of measured value between cylinders

is 98.06kPa (14.22 psi) and less.

On checking, make the connection perfectly airtight

between the hole of spark plug and compression pressure

gauge.

ÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁ

Unit ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

StandardÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

Limit

ÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Compression

Pressure

- 400 rpm kPa(psi) 1,225.75

(177.73)

1,176.72-

1,274.78

(170.62-

184.84)

7. After checking, remove the gauge and install the removed

parts.

OIL PRESSURE CHECK

Tools Required

09915-77310 Oil Pressure Gauge

Prior to check oil pressure, check the followings:

Check oil level and add if required.

Replace the discolored, deteriorated or diluted oil.

Check any oil leakage and repair the defective parts.

Check the compression pressure in the following procedures:

1. Remove the oil pressure switch (b) from the cylinder

block.

2. Install the oil pressure gauge 09915-77310 (c) to the

mounting place of the oil pressure switch.

D12B302A

3. Start the engine and warm up to the normal operating

temperature.

4. Raise the engine speed up to 2,000rpm and then

read oil pressure.

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ Item

ÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁ Unit

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ Standard

Oil Pressure - 2000rpm kPa

(psi)

245.15-294.18

(35.55-42.66)

5. After checking, wrap the threads of oil pressure

switch with a seal tape and tighten it to the specified

torque 12-16 Nm (106-144 lb-in).

6. Start the engine and check oil pressure switch for oil

leakage.

1B -10 SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

ADJUSTMENT OF VALVE

CLEARANCE

Adjust the valve clearance in the following procedures:

1. Remove the air filter/resonator assembly and the

relevant parts installed on the cylinder head cover.

2. Remove the cylinder head cover hexagon bolts and

remove the cover.

3. Turn over the crankshaft to make No.1 cylinder

matched with the compression top dead center.

(When the camshaft sprocket notch (d) is aligned with

the timing belt rear cover triangle pointer (e) and the

crankshaft sprocket point (f) is aligned with the oil

pump housing point (g), the compression top dead

center is on the ignition sequence for No. 1 cylinder.)

D102B303

4. Check the valve clearance for No. 1 cylinder compression

top dead center.

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Condition

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

Cylinder

No.

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

1

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

2

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

3

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Compression top Intake

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

dead center of

No.1 cylinder Exhaust

marks indicates the place where the valve clearance

can be checked and adjusted.

5. If the checking for the valve clearance of No.1 cylinder

compression top dead center is over, position

No.1 cylinder on the exhaust top dead center as rotating

the crankshaft in a 360-degree arc. (When the

camshaft sprocket point (h) is aligned with the timing

belt rear cover triangle pointer (e), the exhaust top

dead center is on the ignition sequence for No. 1 cylinder.)

D102B304

6. Check the valve clearance for the No. 1 cylinder exhaust

top dead center.

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Condition

ÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁ

Cylinder

No.

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

1

ÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁ

2

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁ

3

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Exhaust top dead Intake

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

center of No.1

cylinder Exhaust

marks indicates the place where the valve clearance

can be checked and adjusted.

Check and adjust the valve clearance (i) using thickness

gauge (j).

D102B305

D102B306

SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL 1B- 11

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

The measured value of valve clearance should meet the

specified value. If not, adjust the valve clearance.

Important: In case of hot engine, warm up the engine

until the electric cooling fan begins to work and stop the

engine to adjust the clearance with 20-30 minutes there

from.

Unit : mm (in.)

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Item ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Specified value

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

Intake

0.15±0.02

(0.0059±0.0008)

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁVÁalvÁe Á

Cold

Exhaust

0.32±0.02

(0.0126±0.0008)

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

Valve

Clearance

Intake

0.25±0.02

(0.0098±0.0008)

ÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁ

Hot

Exhaust

0.42±0.02

(0.0165±0.0008)

8. When adjusting the valve clearance, loosen the adjust

nut (k) and then tighten or loosen the adjust rod (l)

properly.

D102B307

IGNITION TIMING CHECK AND

ADJUSTMENT (TYPICAL)

Note: Ignition timing could not be adjusted for Direct

Ignition System (Euro Stage III).

Check and adjust the ignition timing in the following procedures:

1. Warm up the engine to the normal operating temperature.

2. Turn off the lamp and audio system and shift the shift

gear lever in Neutral.

D12B3081

3. Connect terminal A and terminal C of ALDL connector

using the wire (m) or connect the scan tool (n) with

ALDL connector.

4. Connect the timing light (o) with No. 1 cylinder high

tension cable and check the specified value for the

ignition timing, flashing notch on the crankshaft

pulley.

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Item ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

ÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁÁ

Specified Value

ÁIÁgnitÁion ÁtimiÁng Á- 95Á0rpÁmÁ 10 BTDC

Important: In flashing the timing light, if crankshaft

pulley notch (p) is matched with the mark (10) for timing

check, the ignition timing is 10 BTDC.

D102B309

1B -12 SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

D102B310

5. If the ignition timing exceeds the specified value,

loosen the distributor bolts and adjust it to the specified

ignition timing by turning the distributor body (s).

D102B311

VALVE TIMING CHECK AND

ADJUSTMENT

Check the valve timing in the following procedures:

1. After removing the high headlamp, loosen the bolts

(a) and remove the timing belt front upper cover (b).

D102B312

2. Turning the crankshaft clockwise twice, align the

notch (d) on the crankshaft pulley (c) with the mark 0

(e) for the timing check on the timing belt front lower

cover.

D102B313

3. Check if the notch (f) on the camshaft sprocket is

aligned with the triangle pointer (g) on the timing belt

rear cover.

Important: Notch (f) should be aligned with pointer (g)

to set the valve timing normally.

D102B314

SOHC ENGINE MECANICAL 1B- 13

DAEWOO M-150 BL2

Adjust the valve timing in the following procedures:

1. Loosen the bolt and remove the timing belt pulley (c).

In loosening the bolt, use the driver (h) in the picture

shown.

D102B315

2. Remove the oil level gauge guide tube (i) and the timing

belt front lower cover (j).

D102B316

3. Remove the timing belt tensioner (k) and the timing

belt (l).

D102B317

4. Using the bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise to align

the mark (m) on the crankshaft sprocket with the

pointer (n) on the oil pump housing. Then, turn the

camshaft to align the notch (f) with the pointer (g).

D102B318

5. Install the timing belt (l) and the tensioner (k). (Do not

tighten the tensioner bolt completely.)

Turning the crankshaft clockwise twice, align the

mark (m) with the pointer (n) and tighten the tensioner

bolt to 15-23 Nm (11-17 lb-ft).

D12B319A

6. Install all removed parts.

Where is the alternator on a Daewoo matiz?

Under the bonnet, identify where the belt runs on one side of the motor.

The alternator is located at the bottom on the rear side of the motor.(ie. the hard spot to get to)

This is for a 774cc motor.

How do you fix a misfire on 2000 daewo matiz?

I would say that it would probably be wise to replace the distributor cap, rotor and leads. Easy enough job needs 7mm socket to undo distrib bolts. Intend to do same soon.

How you can reset airbag light in Daewoo Mitaz?

you don't unless the problem is repaired ..the air bag has a problem and could go off take it to a shop and let them tell ya what is worng ..nothing to fool with ..

Were is egr valve on a deawoo matiz?

Looking under bonnet EGR valve is near top back of engine roughly in the centre.

Location is just below (about 6") back edge of bonnet and has an black electrical plug in connector fitted horizontally on right hand side of valve.

Valve is about the diameter of a toilet roll and about half the length. Secured by two bolts at rear of valve.

Common electrical fault on Daewoo matiz?

My car is driving and then when it gets warm it lose power what can bethe fault

How do you adjust Daewoo Matiz clutch cable?

Under the front of the car to the right a bit is the clutch cable and arm. The cable runs away from you, from the adjustment nut on a threaded bolt. This extends through the clutch arm and on to the cable. Between the part where the cable stop is, and the clutch arm is a kind of ribbed PVC sheath. This has some of the cable running through it. So firstly pinch the sheath at the far end and pull towards the clutch arm, which is closer to you. You will see the nut on the rod slide towards you, moving the nut clear of the clutch arm. With your other hand, turn the nut clockwise 2,3, maybe four times and let go of the other hand on the PVC sheath and watch the nut slot itself back into the clutch arm. Then just try your car in forward and reverse to see if you have adjusted enough or too much. If so adjust again. This is a very easy job to do yourself. You don't usually even need tools to do it, unless the nut is stiff.

How do you repair a matiz clutch?

A mechanically competent person with a good set of spanners/sockets and a ball joint splitter can replace a matiz (original model) clutch.It will take all day and is fiddly getting to certain of the nuts and bolts, especially at the back of the engine compartment. You will need to work from above and beneath the engine compartment.Make sure axle stands are safe and secure and car chocked.Download the workshop manual on line for free and follow the instructions first for the removal of driveshafts and transaxle assembly, then clutch replacement sections.Tip. you do have to remove the drive shaft inner ends but not outer ends, the drive axle to hub caulking bolt does not have to be removed as stated but the hub lower nut and steering ball joint need to be removed along with the front under longitudinal frames. By pulling the hub outward the driveshaft inner end can be levered free and the driveshaft twisted down and forward (turn the hub assembly so as not to put strain on the joints and rubber boots) protect the released end with a bag to stop ingress of dirt and suspend out of the way.removal of air filter, battery and tray (worth doing the tray as it gives better access), gear change outer cables, electric connectors, speedo cable nut and clutch cable, is straight forward. Removal of starter motor mount bolts and access to the gear change bracket bolts is fiddly but doable (knuckle scrapes and anglo saxon expletives will occur!).The remaining bolts are easy.you do not need to remove the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts as there is enough play when tilting the engine to remove the transaxle assembly.The engine as a whole does need to be tilted down at the trransaxle end to give enough room to remove the box. I found that the whole supported itself on the remaining three engine mounts with a little help of a jack under the engine just in case. In fact I had to release the bolt from the engine block lower mounting (by the alternator) to actually get enough tilt.The transaxle should now pull/lever straight off and can be lowered to the ground with a little deft twisting. I would say it weighs the same as a 25 kg bag of sand.Clutch plate, cover and release bearing replacement is straight forward but you must ensure the new clutch plate is well centered. If it is a little bit out of centre you will not be able to reattach the transaxle assembly.Make or borrow a centring tool. I made one out of a hotpoint washing machine transit bolt ten mm copper tubing (thats the size of the flywheel input shaft bearing) and a 42mm plastic pushfit plumbing blanking plug! Be ingenious using all those "I'll keep that it might be useful one day" bits and pieces in your garage.At this point I stopped for lunch.Replacing the transaxle assembly was helped by a second pair of hands pushing it up into place by jack whilst I positioned it in generally the right position. With a little zumba wiggle and push it will eventually fit in place - if you centred the clutch plate correctly. Get a couple of bolts back in to hold in place and reassembly is a reverse of dismantling.Don't forget to refill the gearbox with oil.Check you have'nt trapped any electric cables.Be methodical about checking all bolts are replaced correctly not only on the transaxle assembly but also the front suspension. You will be tired by now it is easy to make a mistake. Have a cup of tea and check twice.Now the scary bit turning the ignition, listening for strange noises and taking her for a test ride. I was pleasantly surprised, all went well.It took me all day 9-7pm with 3 breaks totalling an hour. I had the help of my 15 yr old son for half a day - until his girlfriend arrived. I worked on my driveway and for 2hrs it pissed down with rain apart from that all was as I expected. I laid in the bath afterwards easing my 52 yr old joints, thinking of the hundreds of pounds saved on the garage quotes. Ahhh bliss.Total cost = 10hrs and £60 for parts (bought online and delivered next day from the excellent eurocarparts.com).Am I a mechanic? No. Just a competent DIYer.Tools required 8,10,12,14,17,19,24mm sockets set of similar spanners various pliers and screwdrivers, a ball joint splitter and home made clutch centring tool.Rags and containers for nuts and bolts.

If you put too much oil in your Daewoo Matiz how do you drain it?

: Excess oil in sumpTry locating the drain plug on the sump. Slide underneath the front of the vehicle, look for the rectangular sump, only around 9" square at it's base. The drain plug is on the back edge and is a standard 17mm nut I seem to recall, although have a 19", 15" and 13" handy just in case. I know for certain it's just a standard nut size and does not require a specialist tool. Just loosen the nut and drain off a little oil. If you extract too much just top up with new oil, don't put the sump stuff back in. Probably best to have a new bottle handy, on one occasion I did this and dropped the plug into the oil tray and emptied the entire sump before I found it. I then had to get someone to fetch me some more oil before I could start the engine again!

Many people are under the misconception that if too much oil is put in, the car will just burn off the excess, and whilst this is true, it can cause excessive engine wear in the process - in fact too much oil is often worse than too little. Having said this, don't worry too much if the level is only just over the max mark on the dipstick, as there is a little margin for error built in to the levels. As a rule of thumb I would say that if it's less than 1/4" over the mark there's no need to worry.

Daewoo matiz car keeps cutting out?

Researching this for my sister in law.

Seems most people have found it to be the optical sensor in the distributor or the distributor itself.

Sensor cost almost as much as the distributor so makes sense to change both by replacing the distributor.