Dodge D100

near the coil on the manifold

The firing order for a 1988 318 is: Right side: 1-3-5-7. Left side: 2-4-6-8. This is as viewed from the front of the truck.

BIG job,costly. Replace with mopar eng. 318-360.

That personaly seems a bit high for a pickup, that is something you would see in a Crown Victoria or other big cars. It would be good on gas mileage, but a little hard for pulling since the engine would have to really work to get moving.

My stock 86 D150 pickup with the inline six came with 3.21 gears, with options like 3.72 and 4.10. That motor is not a real power house either, and the 4x4 V8 trucks would have ran 4.10 gears.

Hope this helps out.

THE 2.75 GEARS ARE FOR GAS MILAGE.you may find a sticker on door jams that will tell you what rear it came with.If you want or need more power ,go to about 3.23, More power 3.55

One of the main advantages of a push button over a toggle switch is there is less room for accidental engagements. A toggle switch can easily be turned on or off by accident and a push button has to be intentionally touched to turn it on or off.

On the firewall pass side.

i had the same problem on my 89 try taking the electrical connectors off the headlights and clean the terminals on connecter and the prongs coming from headlight with sandpaper and small file

The firing order should be 1-6-5-4-3-2.

owners manual says 2,000lbs......... towing light trailers 2,000 or less on reasonably level roads in moderate temp -vehichles with 6 cylinder *slant six* or with a833 transmission may tow trailers UP TO 2,000lbs 318-5,000lbs 360-7,000lbs owners manual says 2,000lbs......... towing light trailers 2,000 or less on reasonably level roads in moderate temp -vehichles with 6 cylinder *slant six* or with a833 transmission may tow trailers UP TO 2,000lbs 318-5,000lbs 360-7,000lbs

Usually against the firewall in the center

It most liley does not have a ballast resistor.

NONE.

i have a 87 but i think they are the same. mine is located right below the steering column.

I dont believe there is a modulator valve on a 75 truck, and im sorry if some joker ripped you off, but dodge transmisions are always fun, I feel for you.

Start by jacking up the truck and putting it on jack stands.Remove the drive shaft by removing the 4 bolts on the u-joint straps.Drain the trans fluid by removing the plug.It saves a big mess in your hair when you lay in it. Remove the speedo cable,shifter linkage,if it is an A833 4speed remove shifter. Support tranny with floor jack and remove crossmember bolts and tranny mount bolts.Remove crossmember ,mark the crossmember so you know which side is which when you reinstall it.Remove the 4 bolts that hold the tranny to bell housing,carefully slide the tranny back and lower it out of the way.Be careful it is heavy ,it helps to have a transmission jack ,but a floor jack will do. Remove the dust shield from the bottom of the bellhousing ,remove the throwout bearing from the fork. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.You have to turn the engine to get the bolts out unless you take the bellhousingoff which means you have take starter off. Lower the pressure plate and clutch out as a unit,noting which way the clutch disc sets in the pressure plate.If your flywheel is not cracked or scored then just clean it with brake clean and some emory paper.You will need an alignment tool to line up the clutch,most kits now have a tool in the kit. Alternate tightening the pressure plate bolts to avoid warping the disc or the pressure plate.Reinstall everything and check your clutch adjustment. Good luck. I did my D-100 a few weeks back,including installing a new front and rear seal and rebuilding the shifter it took me about 5 hours working by myself on jack stands and I am 60 years old.

the brake light switch is on a bracket just above the brake pedal.

most likely the teeth on the flywheel that the starter connects with are ground down. Either way, you need to remove starter to look, starter gear not likely bad , but possible. But, if this is a FORD with a separate starter solenoid, that will be your problem. Ford first! Solenoid second!

In college we were taught, +ve ground means the wires and electric items in the car are -ve , oxygen is a +ve atom and is attracted to -ve wire etc, causing them to corrode and fail... very expensive repairs replacing wiring etc...., so the battery was turned around to protect the wires and electrics components, but now the panels will rust,.. S.Olsen Melbourne

Added info to question: Vacuum also coincidently went from steady 20psi to 15psi/knock - small backfire/miss on acceleration from idle. Knock is steady at idle.

Hey;

Check the ballist resistor, and the voltage regulator.

Unidrv

Yes your throttle body is interchangeable, just make sure that all connections are the same, especially the electrical; you can make changes to fuel inlet & vapor return just don't get them mixed up. Use a new base gasket & you can gain a little torque by adding a phenolic(Hard Plastic) spacer between the manifold & throttle body.

Drum brake?

Broken return spring?

Bad self-adjuster?

Parking brake not adjusted properly?

Disc Brake?

Frozen caliper?

Parking brake not adjusted properly?

the 87 didn't have resistors it has a computer behind the battery.

7700

these bolts get tightened in three steps. 1st step- 45 ft. lbs. 2nd step- 65 ft.lbs. 3rd step- 65 ft. lbs. and an additional 90 degree turn last, torque the small bolt in the rear of the head to 25 ft. lbs. this is true came right out of a chilton manual.

150 hp @ 4400 rpm and 255 lb-ft of torque at 2000 rpm, for the 2bbl carb.

167 hp @ 4000 rpm and 245 lb-ft of torque at 2000 rpm for the 4bbl carb.