Dodge Intrepid

transaxle wiring harness

I need detailed information on how to replace a starter for a 2000 dodge intrepid

It reads the speed of the output shaft.

Technically 105K miles - but most belt manufacturers recommend between 60K - 70k miles. I would go with the belt maker over Chryslers recommendation.

With a Spark plug gap tool :)

I REPLACED BOTH SENSORS ON MY TRANS THE BACK ONE IS REAL EASY THE FRONT ONE IS A LITTLE TOUGHER UNPLUG THE WIRES I THINK IT WAS A 7/8 IN SOCKET TURNED IT OUT PUT NEW ONE IN PLUG BACK IN THE FRONT ONE IS THE SAME WAY EXCEPT YOU NEED TO WORK AROUND A MOUNT YOU DO NEED AT LEAST RAMPS THEY COST BETWEEN 20 AND 30 DOLLARS DEPENDING ON WHICH ONE YOU REPLACE

Passenger side

It is on the back of the engine, on the passenger side. It is at the bottom of the head, just above the bell housing. If you follow the twin tubes off of the back of the intake plenumn you will find it.

It may "fit" under the hood, but it would not work. The engines are different, computers are different, wiring harnesses are different, and transmissions are different.

cost of a windshield for 2003 dodge intrepid

3.2L has a belt.

in the trunk there are 3 plastic wing nuts take them off and the light will come out.

12 means that the battery was disconnected within the last 50 cycles of the ignition.(nothing to worry about) 43 is the code for a short in the ignition coil circuit 55 means that there is no more codes stored in the computer (END

there is a schrader valve near the thermostat housing. remove the cap and press the valva in. Gas should squirt out. ****MAKE SURE ENGINE IS OFF AND COOL AND NO SMOKING****

Fuel pump is located in the gas tank.

.050 should do it for you. I have a replacement hood and no manual. Call the parts store - they are happy to quickly look it up for you. If you installed the plugs and have to re-adjust the gapping because it is running rough, you should be ok to use the same new plugs, just don't over tighten. Doug Bowman '96 Chrysler Intrepid w 308,000 km. :( sorry there doug but you are way off. your answer will most likely burn up someone's coil pack, wires and/or plugs not to mention bad performance at higher rpm's. the correct gap is (.035)". (.015)" extra gap will make a mess of an otherwise good tune-up. Folks, most plugs come from the factory pre-gapped. Simply check all the plugs and if they are consistently the same then most likely you have the correct gap for a stock engine providing you have the right plugs.

If it is from the same year and engine size it would be the same.

Dodge didn't build the Interpids with the type of fuel lines and seals that can hold up to the corrosive aspects of E-85, Also the computer requires different calibrations.

either the transmission oil line to radiater is not tightene or the oil cooler tank at bottom of radiator has a leak

It is under the intake, between the heads.

It is under the intake, between the heads.

The turn signal flasher on a 2004 Dodge Intrepid is located in the driver's side fuse box. The fuse box panel is not accessible unless the driver's door is open. It is to the left of the driver's foot controls on the outer side of the dash.

i have a 96 jetta and i looked at the fuse box and found the horn fuse and it was blown changed the fuse and the horn works

so i would look at the fuse box find your horn fuse and see if its blown change it out with the same amp fuse and push the horn button that might fix your problem

There is much more here than you asked for but I have been there having done about 3 brake changes on my car. Clips are part of the pad itself. You might be asking about orientation of the pads as well as getting them back on. First, orientation-- best way to explain this it is to match the curve of the pad so that it follows the curve of the rotor and of course, the pad can only go to the inside so it clamps against the rotor. Assuming a brake pad replacement is in the works, another common problem is getting the new pads back on the rotor. This is easy to solve. You probably have removed the (2) bolts behind the rotor that hold the caliper in place and taken your caliper assembly off your rotor and supported your caliper assembly with its attached brake line with a strong wire attached to something just above your brakes, you can now get at your pads. At this point you will need to open the gap between the thicker pads that are going to replace the old thinner "worn" pads. (Even if you had done this at the start there is an easy and hard way). I have done it both and here is the easy way: Use a suction bulb or something like it to remove a little brake fluid (maybe an ounce but don't go to far because you don't want to introduce air in your brakeline). The fluid is taken from the master cylinder (where you replace brake fluid) which is under your hood. Throw this away, you will refill some brake fluid to bring up the fluid to the right level. If you don't feel like you want to do this, just open the master cylinder cap and read on. Next, get dirty by placing a "C" clamp so that it is on the inside pad and back side of the caliper. As you close the "C" clamp, it presses against the inside pad and moves it backward by pressing against a piston in the caliper. The brake fluid is moving back up in the master cylinder and that little bit of brake fluid you removed has made room for this fluid to be push back up without overflowing. If chose not to remove any fluid and your brake fluid was a little low to start with, you might get lucky and not have it overflow. This opens the gap between the inside and outside pads. If you open the gap with the old pads first then just clip on the new pads (use a flat head screwdriver to help the clip snap into place or a bit of finger strength if you really want to work out). Remember that the curve of the pad follows the curve of the rotor. Also, there is an inside and outside pad. By looking at each, you will know which is which. When reassembling the new pads and the caliper on the rotor again, aligning the back part of the caliper can be a bit difficult. First, be sure the gap between the pads is as wide as it can be. Next, shimmy the caliper assembly back on by looking behind the rotor and aligning the back part of the rotor so that the bolts that hold the caliper will fit through. There are accordin type rubber boots that compress and have to fit in behind the attachment points for the 2 bolts. This has to be done at the same time the pads are being shimmed on the rotor. Be sure to tighten the bolts on the caliper and refill your brake fluid. Always test the brakes in a safe area before going out. What you don't want to happen is to find out you have air in your brakeline or have not replaced fluid and you don't have brakes or have mushy brakes or that something wasn't reassembled incorrectly when you need it. GOOD LUCK.

I have heard that a timing belt should be replaced at 60,000 miles but I have also heard that if the belt was not replaced at 60,000 that it should be left alone, and I somewhat confirmed it on my Mazda 626, I was passed 60,000 and decided to do a "tune up" where the timing belt needed to be replaced................I'll tell you what it cause a whole bunch of problems that I did not have until I went to medeling with the car!!!!!!