Dodge Intrepid

There is much more here than you asked for but I have been there having done about 3 brake changes on my car. Clips are part of the pad itself. You might be asking about orientation of the pads as well as getting them back on. First, orientation-- best way to explain this it is to match the curve of the pad so that it follows the curve of the rotor and of course, the pad can only go to the inside so it clamps against the rotor. Assuming a brake pad replacement is in the works, another common problem is getting the new pads back on the rotor. This is easy to solve. You probably have removed the (2) bolts behind the rotor that hold the caliper in place and taken your caliper assembly off your rotor and supported your caliper assembly with its attached brake line with a strong wire attached to something just above your brakes, you can now get at your pads. At this point you will need to open the gap between the thicker pads that are going to replace the old thinner "worn" pads. (Even if you had done this at the start there is an easy and hard way). I have done it both and here is the easy way: Use a suction bulb or something like it to remove a little brake fluid (maybe an ounce but don't go to far because you don't want to introduce air in your brakeline). The fluid is taken from the master cylinder (where you replace brake fluid) which is under your hood. Throw this away, you will refill some brake fluid to bring up the fluid to the right level. If you don't feel like you want to do this, just open the master cylinder cap and read on. Next, get dirty by placing a "C" clamp so that it is on the inside pad and back side of the caliper. As you close the "C" clamp, it presses against the inside pad and moves it backward by pressing against a piston in the caliper. The brake fluid is moving back up in the master cylinder and that little bit of brake fluid you removed has made room for this fluid to be push back up without overflowing. If chose not to remove any fluid and your brake fluid was a little low to start with, you might get lucky and not have it overflow. This opens the gap between the inside and outside pads. If you open the gap with the old pads first then just clip on the new pads (use a flat head screwdriver to help the clip snap into place or a bit of finger strength if you really want to work out). Remember that the curve of the pad follows the curve of the rotor. Also, there is an inside and outside pad. By looking at each, you will know which is which. When reassembling the new pads and the caliper on the rotor again, aligning the back part of the caliper can be a bit difficult. First, be sure the gap between the pads is as wide as it can be. Next, shimmy the caliper assembly back on by looking behind the rotor and aligning the back part of the rotor so that the bolts that hold the caliper will fit through. There are accordin type rubber boots that compress and have to fit in behind the attachment points for the 2 bolts. This has to be done at the same time the pads are being shimmed on the rotor. Be sure to tighten the bolts on the caliper and refill your brake fluid. Always test the brakes in a safe area before going out. What you don't want to happen is to find out you have air in your brakeline or have not replaced fluid and you don't have brakes or have mushy brakes or that something wasn't reassembled incorrectly when you need it. GOOD LUCK.

I have heard that a timing belt should be replaced at 60,000 miles but I have also heard that if the belt was not replaced at 60,000 that it should be left alone, and I somewhat confirmed it on my Mazda 626, I was passed 60,000 and decided to do a "tune up" where the timing belt needed to be replaced................I'll tell you what it cause a whole bunch of problems that I did not have until I went to medeling with the car!!!!!!

Resevoir against firewall at driver's side

The following "universal" drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This generic OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to "sit" overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others. # # 1. Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. # 2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. # 3. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes. # 4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. # 5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle. # 6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. # 7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

Since it is "yours," open the hood/bonnet and look for not more than 4 spark plug wires (4-cyl), or not less than 6 spark plug wires (front and/or rear sides of engine) (6-cyl).

Check the Heater Core? Did it smell like oil or antifreeze. My Heater Core went, started blowing out smoke from the vent. Most Likely the Problem. "smoke" poured into my 1991 when the ac blew out all the freon and froze up the outside temp gage.

There isn't one. The lower hose is used for a drain. Hello, whoever answered this with "there ain't one", I wonder where he got his Dodge from? As of 11/14/2005, and with 143250mi I have needed to replace the radiator only 1 time. There is a rubber bumper on the bottom of the radiator (on the passenger side) just above it is where you can find it. The only reason I had to replace it was because (on the driver side) the plastic tank had a slit on it on the top as if someone actually cut it with a scappel (hair line slit)

what are you driving? email me direct if you wish

This is a JOB if you have the 3.5L. Prob the easiest way is to take out the fan for easier access and take off the belts and the crank pully and then the housing for the timing belt which should be replaced while you have that off anyways. After you have the timing belt off the water pump is right there held on with 3 bolts and it looks like a pully. The hardest part about this job is reinstalling the timing belt because if your not precise you would prob just be better off buying the water pump and timing belt and going to an independent shop and having them do it.. Good Luck I know I will need luck with mine.

Remove the cowel,wiper blades and wiper motor remove master cylinder only and move off the side ,do not unhook brake lines or bend or kink them from under the dash remove the arm that hooks to the brake pedel and 4 brake booster bolts and wa-la its out

3/16"

I have 2002 intrepid that does the same thing this week the light came on and does not go off volt meter shows 14. volts while the light is on. put a new battry on didnot help.

The 2004 Dodge Intrepid oxygen sensor can be found on the back of the air cleaner housing. Remove the wiring harness. Remove the oxygen sensor retaining screws. Reverse the process to install the new oxygen sensor.

It on the other side of the car under the glove boxs you have to take it all apart. Don't break anything

1993 Dynasty (irregardless of motor) will fire 1-2-3-4-5-6 with a counterclockwise distributor motion if it's the 3.0L. The cylinder block as you look at it from the front of the car is: _____________ | | | 1 3 5 | --------------- | 2 4 6 | |_____________|

It is on the bottom of the washer fluid reservoir.

Red, 5 year, HOAT type.

I think the engine has to come out for that. Ger a manual on your car and read all about it.

You need to test the wires at the map.

It is inside the fuel tank. There is an access plate in the trunk on 1993-1997 Intrepids.

just below the drivers side valve cover plug points to the passnger side

Timing degrees? The timing is not adjustable, the timing chain is set with the dots and the plated links lined up and the computer takes it from there. When the chain is being installed the #1 piston will not be at top dead center.

If all of them stopped working at once, it could be a fuse. Find the Fuse box and test the one that connects to your dash. if the fuse is bad, replace it.

P1492 (M) Ambient/Battery Temperature Sensor Volts Too High Battery temperature sensor input above acceptable range.

It takes some time, but can be done. You must take the grill, radiator, fan, and other belts off first.