Dodge Intrepid

Trouble code P0440 means: EVAP Purge System Fault

Yes, it is absolutely possible. Many people have done it. You can install a 3.2 or 3.5 engine in your Intrepid that had a 2.7, depending on the year of your car. It basically involves parts changing, (hoses, belts, cables, air intake) and a minor modification to the passenger side exhaust. You use the original transmission, 2.7 engine computer, and many of the original parts to the car. If you have ever pulled an engine out of a modern car, you can do it. Search google, ebay, and dodgeintrepid.net for specific information on how to do it and what is needed, there is a ton of information on this out there. I did my own car about 4 years ago and it has just over 40,000 miles now on the 3.2, and never any problems.

THERE EASY TO CHANGE I USED A 1 INCH WRENCH ON 2 OF THEM THEN GOT A SOCKET (10 DOLLARS) ADVANCED LOANS THE TOOLS FOR IT PART IS CUT OUT SO THE WIRING FITS IF YOU CAN GET THE GENERIC SENSORS ALMOST HALF THE PRICE AND YOU DO THEM THE SAME WAY INSTRUCTIONS ARE EASY YOU MIGHT TRY SPRAYING THEM WHEN THE ENGIN IS COOL

The transmission control unit is located between the engine oil dipstick and the windshield washer fluid reservoir on the 2002 Dodge Intrepid. The TCM and PCM are one built into one unit on 2002 models.

Rip the old ones out. Then replace with new ones.

All you have to do is loosen the idler pulley and the belt is a snap after you do that. just tightin bolt after the belt is on. good to go

Yes

Use the correct key. It is obvious you are not using the correct key or it would open. If you cannot find the right key, then call a locksmith.

Bring to a shop that has an ABS scanner to determine the problem

Some cars it will reset after a certain number of starts. Other wise you will have to take it to a company that can hook your car up to a computer to reset it.

You will have to order the whole housing where the uper raditor hose meets the eng.

The dealer will not sell just the bleeder.

Since a 1997 Intrepid has a high pressure cut off switch, it is OK to put a whole 1 pound can of Freon in it. You will need to do this after charging the system.

The 1999 Dodge intrepid brake lines schematics diagram shows the routing of each brake line. The diagram will show the brake line routing from the master cylinder to each wheel.

the middle left of the motor towards the bottom

on the front tires its a few inches behind tire wheel well , you should see a notch / indentation for your jack . Put your jack in the middle of the indentation . Same thing for the rear except its located a few inches in front of wheel well .

This could be a number of things. If the sqeeking happens when braking, then you probably need brakes. If it happens while driving, accelerating and turning then it could be the belt that is making noise. This can be due to a loose belt, worn tensioner or power steering fluid low or power steering issue.

40 psi plus or minus 5

I believe bank 1 sensor 1 is Passenger side before catalytic converter. sensor 2 is after catalytic converter.

bank 2 sensor 1 is Driver side before catalytic converter. sensor 2 is after catalytic converter.

Actually I had that same problem many years ago (I still have the car 94 intrepid). What happened in my case was simply explained: When you close the door, the sheet metal of the door is supposed to press in the door jamb switch (attached to the body) - That shuts the light off. This switch is being pushed out under spring loaded pressure (to keep it in the on position - hence closing the door should turn it off along with the light). I found that when I pressed the button/switch with my finger, the light went out normally. And I don't know if it could be a stuck switch because the spring pressure felt really strong. Over the years, the door is closed or slammed 10s of thousands of times, and the button under the strong spring pressure, actually starts to dent the sheet metal of the door in that spot - and what happens is - now the slightly dented door can't push the button all the way down because the sheet metal is bent away a little bit. So -- The solution is just as simple: You have to somehow pull that small corner section of sheet-metal back out toward the inside of the car so that it can press the button all the way down again. It was long ago when that happened to me, so my memory is a bit hazy of the step by step details - but, I believe I used the bent end of a crow bar to very carefully bend the inner layer of sheetmetal in that spot (try not to put a bump in the outer sheetmetal) and had to remove the inside doortrim panel first in order to get access to that corner of the sheetmetal (2 plies -- you're pulling the inner). I left the wiring harnesses plugged in and put the panel on a wire hanger so it wouldn't dangle by the wires - that way re-installing it was quick. That solution worked for me so well that I completely forgot I ever had that problem until today when I read your entry. It's what I'd call a design flaw. In most American cars, that button is located closer to the hinge for that reason. Because that part of the door doesn't swing even when the door slams, and therefor has almost no momentum. The outer swinging part of the door does have momentum and slams the sheetmetal into the button and this is what causes this problem. Good luck with the fix- Mike I would focus on a bad drivers door jamb switch. Remove it and test/replace it. When they stick, they will cause these problems. Mark

Buy an Lexus RX300, I have had it since 2000 with no problems unlike the 1998 Intrepid that I replaced.

Open drivers door. On the side of dash there is a pannel with a handle in it. pull that off an there is the fuses. look on back of cover you pulled off to see what 1 it is.

Make sure your cooling fans are coming on and that your water is circulating through your radiator and hoses are not clogged. You may want to try and flush your cooling system

In the back seat, under the front leading edge of the seat will be some 13mm bolts. this should make ease of the back seat removal.

No. The 93-97 LH cars equipped with the 3.5l V6 are not. However, 98 and up are interference.

There are four proportioning valves. They are located by all four tires within the brake line. It is a small cylinder shaped valve about two inches long.