Dodge Ram

you will need a computer and all the wiring to go with it, electric fuel pump in the tank and a return fuel line.

There is no access panel. The tank has to be removed to replace the pump.

The main use is for turning the OD off when towing.

The main use is for turning the OD off when towing.

Yes, with extensive modifications.

A 1997 Dodge with a Cummins diesel does not have an oxygen sensor.

A 1997 Dodge with a Cummins diesel does not have an oxygen sensor.

The 2002 rams have a 4 speed auto transmission. 2005 models have a 5 speed trans. This means that the computer is different, and possibly trans mounts. However I believe everything else is the same.

The cam sensor is the "pick up plate" in the distributor, it is the plate under the rotor inside the distributor cap.

the solonoid is located inside the transmission, once the pan is removed i believe that it is located on the passenger side close to the front. I would find exact instructions but the back yard mechanic can do this with basic tools. If you're interested it shouldn't be too hard to pull the pan and look (only 2 solonoids inside with electrical connections - 1 for converter and 1 for o/d).

There can be any number of things that cause the problem. Plugs fouled, plug wires bad, Distributor worn or cracked, timing off, air filter clogged or air system problems. Bad fuel injectors or a clogged fuel filter. Vacuum lines off or cracked. Something else. Check the air handler tube system from the filter to the intake manifold. On the underside of mine a small hole had burned through from the exhaust.Idle was off and mileage bad. Its not just a simple, Do This, and its fixed. Its a whole package of things to try. Some can be seen on an analyzer at a shop but most are just down to basics testing and replacing of bad or dirty parts.

The cowl, is the area the wipers are in.

can rangerover rim fit a dodgeram truck

10-20 depending on driving habits.

10-20 depending on driving habits.

It depends on the year. from 2003 to about 2005 they used 5w30. After that they used 5w20.

If the front wheels are on a tow dolly, the rear shaft will need disconnected.

If the front wheels are on a tow dolly, the rear shaft will need disconnected.

If you need lots of cab space, it is a great truck

The 'mega' cab is awesome! It adds about another 8-10" of back seat room to their existing 4 door truck design....and a MUCH NEEDED 10" or so!

No, the 1996 has an electric governer. While the 1994 has a hydrauilc governer.

5 quarts

The alternator is over/under charging.

The crank position sensor is located on the engine block and passes between the block and the bell housing at about the 10 o´clock position as viewed from the front of the vehicle. The sensor extends down into the bellhousing to read notches in a disc mounted just ahead of the torque converter.

Depends on the year, newer vehicles have more than one ignition and accessory wire. Not to mention anti-theft immobilizers, which make it impossible to hotwire without the correct resistance or RF code. Not only that, but transmissions and other parts can be damaged without 2nd ignition powered. All you have to do though is splice a constant 12V+ wire to all ignition leads and to the starter wire. I recommend using a DMM to test which wires are which. 12 volt.com offers free wiring color codes, check that site. Hot wiring a car in 10 seconds like in the movies is impossible.

If you have the 3.3 liter, pop the hood and it will be located on the transmission on the passengers side. Look for a little pigtail running from the transmission. There it is.

"All cars are not created Equal" You need to BClear. What do you have? I have a 1984 chev 1/2 ton 4 wheel drive.

Go remove and clean both battery terminal connections and then reconnect them and make them tight. The connections you have now are withdrawing enough current to light the lights but not enough to start your van. Make sure you clean them well, both the posts and the inside of the cables and you can use dilectric grease to keep them from corroding. Answer 1 is correct, but incomplete. From your description of symptoms, I doubt there is anything wrong with your ignition control module neutral safety switch, as even if it were defective it would not cause the symptoms you describe. For the symptoms you describe I can think of only two causes: 1) a low or weak battery, which your "...all other power is working..." pretty well eliminates, or 2) a high resistance fault in the wiring between the battery and the solenoid, including internal to the solenoid itself. If after cleaning the battery terminal posts and connectors the problem still remains, there are SOME OTHER possible causes and related fixes. First, it is possible that the connections/connectors at the OTHER END OF THOSE CABLES are corroded causing the same symptoms. The correction for this is the same as in Answer 1. Next, although it does not happen often, corrosion could have occured inside the crimped on terminal connector(s) on the battery cable ends, which would not be easily observed, and cannot be repaired, requiring replacement of the cable(s). Finally, there could be internal defects in the starter solenoid which could result in the same symptoms, and is usually best corrected by replacing the solenoid. j3h. It is possible that the battery may have one or more bad cells and that it will test good voltage wise it may not have enough amps to fully engage the starter causing the click sound. Have the battery tested at a parts store.

It wasn't built with one.