Dodge Trucks

More than likely it is a fuel problem. When was the last time you changed you're fuel filter? Some times the pumps get weak and when the truck is under load the pump can't keep up. But don't roll out electrical.

open hood make sure you have enough coolant then chek if your hose valves are open follow all your hoses to where they split not sure but some trucks have valves that look like water spicket valves and some look like T open them all up

it shouldnt but it will if the alternator is bad or it has worn belts or broken belts on it

it could, all depends how off it is.

See the related link.

I have a 1952 restored 1/2 ton pickup 12 is about the average.

To answer that question I believe because of the gross vehicle weght the half/ton would not be considered a commercial vehicle, but however check with your local DMV.

not without major modifications.

not without major modifications.

Heads--85 ft/lb

Valve Cover--6 ft/lb

Intake Manifold--35 ft/lb

Exhaust Manifold--30 ft/lb

Oil Pan--15 ft/lb

You should be able to find that in any Chiltons manual. Read it through as you might have to disconnect the vacuum advance.

I'm not sure about a 2007 but this is our solution for our 2008's so it is probably good. The problem is with the Crank Sensor and the wiring. You will need 2 small, 2 medium and 1 large (about 3-4 times the length of the others) heat shrink and a 16 ohm resistor. 1. Remove the cloth sheathing from the Crank Sensor Wires and save it to be reused. 2. Expose the Sensor Signal Output Wire which is on the end of the sensor. 3. Cut the wire and splice the ends. 4. Slide on heat shrinks. 5. Solder in resistor 6. Move heat shrink in place and apply heat. 7. Replace sheathing and tape as required. Try to minimize the flexing of the soldered resistor.

i have a 2000 dodge 2500, i replaced mine last year and it sucks, you first have to remove the WHOLE dash, then on the passenger side there is a black case where you remove the top half, then you start removing the guts until you find the heater core on the bottom, and that will get you started..... i have a 2000 dodge 2500, i replaced mine last year and it sucks, you first have to remove the WHOLE dash, then on the passenger side there is a black case where you remove the top half, then you start removing the guts until you find the heater core on the bottom, and that will get you started.....

one common possibility could be the grease from your driveshaft spattering onto the exhaust pipe; or possibly even gear oil from a leaky pinion seal.

1-5-3-6-2-4

Distributor rotates clockwise.

The original was bolted on, replacement water pumps have pressed on pulleys that are not removable.

buying a dodge was your first mistake

first you need to find out if its the gauge or sending unit in the tank ,the wireing ext....inspect the wiring for breaks ,check the sending unit (see factory repair manual ) check dash gauge (see also factory repair manual)sometimes the float on the sending unit will get a hole in it and sink the sending unit ...then the gauge will read out as empty

Type F. Do NOT use Dextron or General Motors type.

check the automatic shut down relay on the inner fender. it will shut off spark and fuel when bad.

the oil pan on any new body style 1500 no matter what engine is a bear. the front diff needs to come down to gain the clearance to get the oil pick up tube out of the pan.not some thing I would try on your back in the driveway.It is a pain in the ars in the air on a lift.

You could, but the ABS light will stay on.

Total capacity of the automatic transmission is approximately twelve quarts.

There isn't a mass air flow sensor on the Dodge Ram 1500. This is something that the Dodge Ram users have felt should have been included to make the Dodge Ram a better truck

while sitting in the drivers seat it is under the dash board near R leg for OBD reader

Easy 4 to 6 bolts.