Fireplaces

$400 in parts and $2-300 for labor I live in the southeastern U.S. and you wont get a deck built here for that price. You need to consider the height from the ground,do you want hand rails around it ? In some counties and cities you have to put hand rails on it if it,s so many inches off the ground. Do you want steps?.

A fireplace can be placed inside of a gazebo. There are several plans available. The trick is finding the right fireplace design to fit your gazebo and building it properly as not to present a hazard.

Hi,

I have owned an operated a 120 for about 22 years and they are awesome and are very dependable shotguns. I purchased mine from Smoke and Gun in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-Microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on">Waukegan</st1:City> <st1:State w:st="on">Illinois</st1:State></st1:place> in 1986 for the upcoming deer season. They are a varient of the Model 1200 and are exactly the same gun as the model 1300 only the stock and fore grip are made of hardwood and the 1300 had Birch or Walnut or a Synthetic stock. As far as a manual you can get a manual at came with mine was a 1300 Manual and you can get one form WWW.Reapeatingarms.com for free. It takes about 2 weeks for them to get it to you. It is very informative for cleaning and care of your shotgun. The 28 inch vent ribbed barrel was a standard barrel for the 120 although most were sold as combos that came with a smoothbore slug barrel with rifled sights. However a small amount of them had a smoothbore slug barrel that was able to except chokes like mine. These barrels are 22 inches long and have rifled sights and came with both a X-Long, X- Full Turkey Choke as well as a Rifled Slug tube. To shoot slugs in the 28 inch barrel use rifled slugs or Foster slugs as they are known and use the Improved Cylinder choke in the barrel. Never try a tighter choke than the improved cylinder. For about $45.00 you can purchase a rifled choke tube from WWW.WHOLESALEHUNTER.COM that is a Winchoke and then you can shoot Sabot slugs. But remember your barrel is smoothbore and only the 2 3/4 inch slug tube is rifled. You will get better accuracy from a slug tube than a smoothbore but not as good a fully rifled barrel. This is because when the shell is fired it gains speed going down the smoothbore barrel than when it gets to they choke they have a tendency to skid a little on the rifling. Because they skid the slug never gets the real twist it needs before exiting the barrel. However they will shoot straighter than a rifled slug and fly true further. Speaking of barrels a 120 or a 1300 barrel will fit each other plus a 1200. However a 1200 barrel only fits another 1200. And the 1300 model defender 18 inch barrels will fit only a defender due the magazine length. I have seen them mounted though but you have to purchase a special magazine extension. Model 140's and 1400 are semi autos and will also work with each other but not on pump shotguns. If you look on eBay it is still possible to get a rifled slug barrel new for a 1300 from some dealers for as low a $250.00 although before I would buy one I would buy a 5 inch slug tube from www.Hastings.com for about $60.00 and use it. <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Hastings</st1:place></st1:City> has never made a paradox barrel for the shotgun although they did make one for the Model 12 shotguns. There is also a nice 24" turkey barrel available for the 1300 that will fit. The stocks for the 1200 and 1300 will fit the 120 but the fore grips are different. Because the 120 has shorter breach slides on it like a older Model 12 shotgun. I like mine that way because it is harder to short shuck it and that could cost you a tasty critter. The 120 I own has been flawless for me. I have taken more deer than the number of years I have owned it. I have taken Pheasants and Ducks and Geese and even a Wild Bore in <st1:State w:st="on">Arkansas</st1:State> near the <st1:place w:st="on">White River</st1:place> with it. I sold an 870 in order to buy it because the 870 had a problem with different types of shells. Some would work perfect and some were horrible in the 870. It was shocking actually since it was a top grade Wingmaster and not a cheaper express version. The <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Winchester</st1:place></st1:City> 120 is the fastest pump I have ever seen and works well with everything brand of shell I ever tried. I have used in snow and rain and even carried it out of a muddy field or two and when I got home I cleaned it and it still looks great. Always clean the barrel with the slug tube in it the soft bristles can come off and lodge in the threads. And always make sure your choke is in tight before using it. If you don't you could damage the barrel because this is the thinnest part of the barrel. Many of my friends have switched to the 1300 after trying the 120 out. And many of them prefer the 120's hardwood stock I have. These shotguns were only made for a couple of years and a lot of people consider them to be valuable. I read an article that said they are worth $2000 to a collector. The article said there was on 5000 made in 10, 12, 16 and 20 gauges. However I feel they are only worth what you can get for them. And when you call the folks at <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Winchester</st1:place></st1:City> the shotgun is so obscure there just is nothing they can really tell you about it. In fact I have told you more than anyone else probably ever will about them. If you have any other questions about the 120 email me at zmopar1@yahoo.com my name is Pete and I will try to get you an answer. Good luck you have a fine shotgun!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-Microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

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Remember never drink down stream from a herd or look straight up at a bird

There are about 1030 BTUs in a cubic foot of natural gas. If one wishes to know the gas consumption (in feet3 per hour) for a given BTU per hour usage rate, one would divide the amount of BTUs by 1030. That would yield the number of cubic feet of gas that is used per hour. Q: I'm heating a space using 10,300 BTUs per hour and I'm using my natural gas heater to do it. How many cubic feet of gas am I using per hour? A: 10,300 BTUs (the heat generated per hour) divided by 1030 (the number of BTUs per cubic foot of gas) equals 10 cubic feet. You're using 10 cubic feet per hour. You apply 10,300 BTUs to heat the space per hour, and you use 10 cubic feet of gas per hour to do that. (And yes, I picked easy numbers.)

BEST METHOD IS TO PRIME AND PLASTER OVER...NEED ACRYLIC ADMIXTURES ADDED TO STANDARD PLASTER PORTLAND CEMENT MIX....TO GET SMOOTH SURFACE WOULD NEED TO PUT THE PLASTER ON IN MULTIPLE LAYERS, LET DRY AND REPRIME BETWEEN LAYERS...PRODUCTS FROM COMPANY STD DRYWALL WITH ACYYL 60 SOLUTION WORK....OTHER WAY WOULD HAVE TO ANCHOR FIR WOOD STRIPS TO VOLCANIC ROCK (LONG FASTENERS) WITH FIR STRIPS LEVEL AND PLUMB USING WOOD SHIMS IF WANT TO ATTACH A NEW LAYER OF FLAT GYPSUM WALL BOARD....

Try here http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_deck_equipment_aquaslide_n_dive_slide_parts.htm as a anchor kit. John

draft setting, low, clean out ashes, damper set on med, burn hard wood,

Try emailing: sales@atlanticstoves.com. They may be able to advise you of where to go in your area for parts that you need. Hope this helps..

There isn't a big danger if it isn't in use. The only danger would be if they fell and hit themselves on it. You'll just have to watch them carefully around the wood stove and teach them not to run around it and to be careful. Kids can learn at a really young age the proper behavior around different things or people.

Secure the door with a plastic wrap and tie it well, to prevent anyone from opening the door.

It is easiest if the gas line and the electrical outlet are already set up in your home. At that point, it is easy to set up the appliance.

When hooking up a new or used gas appliance it is required that you use a new gas line. I always try to use a flexible line and make sure it is extra long so the appliance can be moved in and out. Shut the gas off at the valve and remove old gas line and replace with a new one. They do have different sizes, so you can take the old one to your nearest home depot type store to ensure the correct size. They also have the needed fittings to do most jobs,always use thread compound on the joints and check for gas leaks when done with soapy water..Good Luck.

Consult with a legally licensed gas fitter/plumber. If you do it and something goes awry you will not be covered by your home insurance and you really don't want it to happen now do you. Best it be legal and done rite...

Chimney sweepers are mainly in charge of cleaning chimneys. They were most popular in the Industrial Revolution, and were treated poorly. Many chimney sweepers were children , resulting in many deaths. Children often died due to soot inhalation which caused respiratory problems, broken bones, and becoming stuck inside the chimneys. Children were often used because they could fit inside the chimneys to do a better job a cleaning, and their boss did not have to pay them much at all.

it's call an ingle

In modern English, the British generally call a fireplace a 'fireplace'.

The answer to this has to be separated into categories:

1. A few drops spattered while painting the walls. Use Goof-Off or a similar latex paint remover, a rough clean cloth, and a toothbrush. You might want to use a razor scraper first to gently remove what you can before going for chemicals. You will probably have to go over the painted areas twice.

2. Really extensive paint spatter or roller goofs. Same as #1 but definitely use the razor knife first. You may want to switch between two products such as paint brush cleaner or Motsenbacher's Lift Off for Latex (available at Lowe's). If the paint includes oil-based, enamel, etc., you will have to use the equivalent product for oil-based paints. Pre-wetting with a moist tower covering the area overnight will sometimes help before you get to the removal.

3. For brick that has layers of paint over it, it gets a little harder. A pressure washer can do the job outdoors but may take out the mud mortar. Slow, careful work with a hammer and an old wood chisel can peel the paint indoors. Then you will have to use a real gel paint stripper (Readi-Strip Pro at Home Depot), heavy gloves, eye protection, ventilation, etc.

Sandstone fireplaces can certainly be updated with a lick of paint. Before painting, the fire surround should be thoroughly cleaned and allowed to dry. A primer should then be applied. Once the primer has dried, apply your chosen paint and allow to dry.

With a product like Thompson's Water Seal, sure you can - no problem there.

The companies that make pressure treated lumber suggest you may stain or waterproof the products using a good quality stain or sealant, providing the wood itself is clean and dry. For additional information on handling pressure treated lumber, including, uses (where and where not to install it), safety and disposal of left-overs, please see the related link below.

Yes, but it was literally a place for the fire, and not the fireplace you would find in a home today. It was usually a stone hearth in the middle of the room. A fire was built there, and a hole in the roof let smoke out.

Not exactly, but they can bug other people if they land in other people's lawns

NO! Thats Highly dangerous as varnished, painted, and green treated woods release terrible toxins as they burn. Residue from treated wood sticks to the chiminey liner, if enough is burned, a liquid form of the residue will acumulate and run down the chimney liner.

Never burn painted, stained, or treated wood or manufactured wood such as plywood and particle board. Chemicals in 'salt treated' wood, paint, or stains can produce toxic fumes when burned. Likewise, burning manufactured wood products produces toxins and carcinogens.

It is just an electric heater. The only savings comes from keeping the rest of the house really chilly, and using the "Amish heater" to electrically warm a small area.

You should avoid barbequing or having a firepit under an awning because sparks may fly and cause the awning to catch fire. Your insurance may not cover this type of damage if it occurs.

By convection (air warmed by the fire circulates through the room) and radiation (infrared energy given off by the fire is transmitted directly, warming objects in line-of-sight of the fire).

You should not place a TV on an electric fireplace, unless it is a TV and Media mantle. Most of the standard models are not secured enough to hold the unit. TV and Media Electric Fireplaces and constructed to hold the weight of all of your media.

The chemical composition of a log (and most organic substances) is carbon. Carbon when burned becomes oxides of carbon which are usually gases i.e. carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. Therefore in essence, most of your log is being vaporized. If you were to burn the log in an enclosure such that none of the gases were lost, you would observe no mass difference.

Provided the heater is of a low wattage it should not affect normal running of the car