Ford Aspire

Disconnect the battery cables first. Then, You should start by removing the air cleaner and air cleaner housing. There is two wires with plugs on the right front of the top portion of the air cleaner housing. There is one nut almost hidden in the right front corner that must come out. Once the air cleaner assembly and the air cleaner tube is removed, there is a bracket just in front of the water pump pulled which is a mount for one of the screws that holds the air cleaner assembly in place. This has two 10 mm bolts in in and must also be removed. Here comes the hard part. Because the oil pan is of "soft metal" and will cave in easily, it is not recommend that a jack with a block be used to hold the engine up so you can remove the right top motor mount through bolt. I used a small shop engine crane with a single chain hooked into the eyelet attached to the right side of the engine and take off enough pressure to easily remove the right engine mount bolt. Then remove the 5 bolts holding the motor mount bracket to the right inside of the right fender. you should have a very clear shot at the timing belt covers. There are two of them, an upper half which has four bolts, and a bottom half with three bolts, (one just under the water pump pulley flange. Loosen the three bolts from the water pump pulley, then loosen the alternator and remove the alternator belt. If the care is air conditioned, remove the air conditioning belt. Jack up the right front corner of the vehicle and place a jack stand to keep the right corner raised. Remove the front wheel and tire, then remove the plastic panel at the bottom of the metal portion of the inner fender. This will expose the bottom crankshaft pulley. Now, lower your engine hoist that is holding your engine up slowly until you are able to remove the four 10 mm bolts holding the lower pulley on. Remove the pulley and using a 13/16 inch socket, remove the large bolt holding the crankshaft pulley on. Both timing belt covers should be off and you shoul be able to see the camshaft pulley at the top, a much smaller adjusting pulley just below it between the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley. there is a large flat washer type flange right behind the crankshaft bolt which will slide off and allow you to remove the belt behind the flange wrapped around the crankshaft pulley. Take a pair of needle nosed pliers and remove the adjusting pulley spring from the little pin on the right and them unbolt the adjusting pulley from the front of the engine.

It is best to turn the crankshaft clockwise with the old belt until you align the two lines marked on the camshaft pulley at the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock position. Check to see if there is a small triangle on the crankshaft pointing up at 12 o'clock on the crank gear notch. This is where this must align at. If you old belt is broken and you are unable to do this, simply align the marks as stated above and then check them after the new belt is replaced. You must start the new belt onto the crankshaft first, then work up the right side to the camshaft pulley and keep it tight between the gears along the right hand side. It will be loose on the left side. Now re-install the spring and adjusting pulley. When installed, slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete turns which will turn the camshaft pulley only one turn and bring the camshaft gear marks back to the 12 and 3 o'clock position. The crankshaft gear should line up also again. Then reverse the entire process and put it all back together. This should get it fine. Just did this to my 1996 at 86k. It was so stretched out that the adjust spring was all the way over and the belt was very loose. Now runs great!!! Good Luck!

If the voltage metere is moving up and down there a good chance that its the alt. You can also place a volt meter on the battery while the motor is running (with every thing off), look and the voltage, then turn your A/C on high, turn your lights, wipers, radio ON, if the voltage goes below 12.5, there a good chance that it is bad.

First remove the Window Crank Handle. Then remove all of the screws you can find, 1 for the door release, 1 for the door grip, and 4 for the door panel. Pop loose all of the lower door area, and carefullyremove the door panel. Remove the plastic behid the door panel, SAVE IT!!. With the window all of the way down, remove the screws that hold the window in and remove the window. Revers to reinstall, being sure to locate the new window into the grooves for that.

PO470 is a code for (Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction), The codes come from OBD-II, ISO9141 E.T.C., Standards. You can purchase from E-Bay and buy U380 Memo Scanner Read trouble Codes amd Clear Codes. Cost 20$. Manual has codes to look up.

Check the main fuse box (use the manual to see what each fuse goes to) if it's not there then check under the hood in the fuse box right behind the battery.

The 1997 Ford Aspire owners manual ( view on-line at www . motorcraft service . com - no spaces - click on Owner Guides ) shows Motorcraft MERCON for the automatic and manual transaxles . Approximate capacity for the manual transaxle is ( 5.2 quarts / 4.9 liters )

Remove the hubcaps and wheels. Remove the two large bolts that hold the brake caliper to the steering knuckle. pull the caliper out of the way. There are two large Philips head screws that hold the rotor to the hub. Remove them and slide the rotor off the hub. Just did this to my '96. Hope it helps

Did you check to see if you blew a fuse when you had it installed? Was the battery disconnected when the stereo was installed? Either that or one of the wires to the gauges has either been miswired to broken the circuit and maybe possibly not grounded.

Which muscle? The biceps, at the front of the arm, get shorter, and the triceps, at the back, get longer.

It's on the throttle body of the Ford Aspire.

On the side of the engine, right above the drain pan.

As a Ford Mechanic with over 30 years experience,there is a good chance the low beam circuit in each bulb is burened out.I cannot count how many times I got a car many other people had worked on for no low beams(they had paid for swiches,relays,fuses)and I fix it with two new bulbs.

front wheel drive

First check that you are using the right fuse, the proper amperage rating will be listed on the fusebox. Never use a higher rating than Ford specifies, the car can catch fire. If that's not it, you have a short circuit. Look at the wires at the taillights. Look for corrosion, loose connections or missing insulation on the wires back there. if that doesn't get it than look for flooded taillight assembles or bad lamps. If still no good than you're going to have to trace down the taillight wires to find the problem. Again look for loose or missing connections, corrosion or missing insulation. It can be a tedious process but just keep going until you find the culprit.

It is under the distributor. Look for the upper coolant hose (it's about an inch thick) and you will find the thermostat housing.

It means you stuck it in the wrong hole!

Hi I had to change the fuel pump on my 1995 ford aspire about 6 months ago, if you fold the back seat down and then fold it up again there is a layer of carpet lift it up and the access for the fuel pump which is located in the fuel tank is there. it takes about 10 minutes if that to change it....if you have anymore questions about it my email is dj_babikat@yahoo.com and the name is Kari, good luck Before removing Fuel pump, check the module located in the hatch-back area behind the cover on the driverside(if its the same as a '94 aspire). This cover is a plastic piece connected to where the rear radio speaker is mounted. Once removed you will see wiring leading to a box smaller than the average sized fist. On its topside you will see a button colored orange. It should be in the depressed position. If it is in the up position, push it down and then return yourself to the driver's seat and turn on your ignition. Most likely you'll then go for a joy ride! The module is designed to interupt power to the fuel pump in case of collision or any bump that might pop the button.

I wouldn't recommend any one doing this at home unless you have the specialized slide hammer, knuckle hub puller, press with dies and a torch set up. I am in the process and it is taking a long time and costing a couple hundred. Pick up the phone and call for estimates. Otherwise buy the ford manual and get the right tools. You need to remove the entire steering knuckle, steering rod ends, strut, ball joint, brakes, ... etc. At least that is for the front bearings.

I believe the fuse box is behind a door in the instrument panel , just to the right of the inside hood release

I get 8.0 volts on mine? It stays on empty all the time??/

The fuel pump is located above the fuel tank, which is right below the backseat. You have to unbolt the backseat and lift it up. There will be a panel underneath that you need to open up. There it is!

An automotive technician can help a person find this part for a 1997 Ford Aspire. They may have the part in the automotive store, or they can order the part from the manufacturer.

simply loosen the top alternator adjustment bolt, and you may need to loosen the lower mounting bolt if it's very tight. slide the alternator to the front of the car and remove the belt. replace the belt and slide the alternator back until the belt is tight. you might need to use a large screwdriver to get enought leverage to get propper belt tightness. tighten down the top adjustment bolt. start the car and listen for belt squeal. if it's present then loosen the top bolt again and try to get the belt tighter.

Take the car to a large parking lot and turn the wheels while accelerating moderately; with the wheels still turned, stop and do it in reverse. Listen for any clicking, knocking noise. By loading the bearings in forward and reverse a bad CV will usually make noise.