Ford Aspire

are all the connection plug in on the switch and did you have fire before replaceing switch

I'm not for sure if it's the same as a 96 aspire, but in the 96 all you have to do unscrew the screws that are located on the outer edge of the panel. Then remove the cover on the mirrior inside the car.

Looking at the engine from under the car, on the right side mid way up the engine block you will see the filter. It is a pain to change it because you will get about a quart of oil down your arm.

Its an hexagonal plug below the exhaust manifold on the side of the engine.

subjects they have already studied .

-APEX

I was looking at the Gates website ( they make timing belts etcetera )

and I chose the 1997 Ford Aspire ( the website shows that the 1.3 liter

engine is NOT an interference engine , so the answer to your question would

be YES )

Just had mine done at a shop at around 75,000 miles and the old belt look fine it could have ran another 50,000 miles. It's a hard job very tight space to work in. Have a good shop do it and change the water pump because it has to be removed when changing the belt. Tensioner should be replaced also.

Could be a vacuum leak Could be a bad spark plug or wire Could be a bad valve (do a compression test) Coild be a bad coil if equipped with COP (Coil on Plug)

Made by KIA in South Korea with the usual amalgam of multinational parts sourcing. Its Euro-market equivalent was the Kia Avella. They share a Mazda 1.3 liter four, with a Mitsubishi intake. (Ford and Mazda were co-owned back then)

Start by Putting a jack under the oil pan. Lift just a bit. Then take off the air intake, with the air filter (whole thing). Then there is a engine mount under it (on left side of car 'passenger' side) No remove the bolt and raise engine with jack. MAKE SURE THAT EVERY THING IS OUT OF THE WAY (FOR TO RAISE ENGINE). Now remove the belts (by moving the power stearing pully (top right 'little' to left) make it easy to remove the first belt. Now for the second belt remove the water pump pully (center top) and now both belts are removed. Now take off the drive belt casing (black casing behind water pump pully). Then remove (after marking) the timing belt. Then remove the water pump and replace. Then just go back in reverse steps! DONE

I believe that is 3.4 to 3.6 quarts , with engine oil filter change

Bottom of Engine Block, on passenger side. Below oil dipstick and oil filler hole. Follow Battery cables - both ground and positive lead to the starter. Hard to get to.

a 95 civic set should work and will be cheaper than buying even one new spring. they do have really high spring rates though... or you could shell out for lowering springs from www.festivamotorsport.com in the performance section.

The windshield washer pump for the ford aspire is on the side of the washer fluid jug which is located on the drivers side at the front of the car. To access it, you must remove part of the plastic inner wheel well just in front of the drivers side tire which is fairly easy. I was able to access it by removing only 3 small screws and then pulling the plastic wheel well back. From underneath the car, just in front of the front drivers tire, reach up and you can disconnect the electrical connection and then slide the pump out from the side of the washer jug. It is only held in by a rubber seal. Fairly quick and easy job.

try filling the center of pilot bering with grease find a solid object that just fits in the hole give it a good wack with a hammer the grease will force the bering out hopefully good luck! it has worked for me but dont know aboutb a ford aspire. Another alternative is to remove the six bolts holding the flywheel onto the crankshaft and carefully remove the flywheel without dropping it. Place on a bench and use a brass drift or a socket that just fits the outside edge of the bearing while still clearing the bearing bore and drive out the old one. Use the socket that fits the outside race of the new pilot bearing to install the new pilot bearing, then re-install the flywheel and be sure to torque the flywheel bolts to the proper torque.

before you worry about the relay the problem might be simple. first thing to check is the fuel pump initia switch. it's located in the rear hatch area, on the drivers side. you will see a small plastic cover in the side panel, remove that to see a red button. press that button and try again. it automatically removes power to the fuel pump in the even of a collision, it might have just tripped for some reason.

The front wheel bearing is pressed onto the spindle of the and this needs to be done at a facility (machine shop, dealer, auto repair, etc.) that has equipment to do this. The piece that holds the bearing can be removed from the car and taken to the afore mentioned places. Otherwise, you'll have to take the vehicle in.

under the hood in the thing that says diagnostic. you need to pick up a manual to learn how to pull the codes if it is OBD1, if it's OBD2 then its inder the steering wheel and bring it to an auto store to run the codes.

sword,or cutlass.

It's a fairly straight forward swap, but not completely painless. you will need to fabricate a motor mount, and do a little wiring. but it will bolt up to the aspire transaxle. not as easy as a b6 1.6L swap, but it's something anyone with some mechanical skill should be able to handle.

They are self adjusting. Some sdjust when backing up and hitting the brakes and some by using the parking brake. You can also adjust them by removing the rear drums.

the fuel pump inertia shut off switch is located in the cargo compartment area on the drivers side panel. it is hidden behind the plastic interior side poanel attached to the strut housing. there is a very small access plug that allows you to reactivate the switch without removing the panel.

Can't say for sure on that specific model but many newer cars (GM and Ford mainly) don't have one. There is an entire procedure for checking the fluid. Just another way to get you into their dealerships

Disconnect the battery cables first. Then, You should start by removing the air cleaner and air cleaner housing. There is two wires with plugs on the right front of the top portion of the air cleaner housing. There is one nut almost hidden in the right front corner that must come out. Once the air cleaner assembly and the air cleaner tube is removed, there is a bracket just in front of the water pump pulled which is a mount for one of the screws that holds the air cleaner assembly in place. This has two 10 mm bolts in in and must also be removed. Here comes the hard part. Because the oil pan is of "soft metal" and will cave in easily, it is not recommend that a jack with a block be used to hold the engine up so you can remove the right top motor mount through bolt. I used a small shop engine crane with a single chain hooked into the eyelet attached to the right side of the engine and take off enough pressure to easily remove the right engine mount bolt. Then remove the 5 bolts holding the motor mount bracket to the right inside of the right fender. you should have a very clear shot at the timing belt covers. There are two of them, an upper half which has four bolts, and a bottom half with three bolts, (one just under the water pump pulley flange. Loosen the three bolts from the water pump pulley, then loosen the alternator and remove the alternator belt. If the care is air conditioned, remove the air conditioning belt. Jack up the right front corner of the vehicle and place a jack stand to keep the right corner raised. Remove the front wheel and tire, then remove the plastic panel at the bottom of the metal portion of the inner fender. This will expose the bottom crankshaft pulley. Now, lower your engine hoist that is holding your engine up slowly until you are able to remove the four 10 mm bolts holding the lower pulley on. Remove the pulley and using a 13/16 inch socket, remove the large bolt holding the crankshaft pulley on. Both timing belt covers should be off and you shoul be able to see the camshaft pulley at the top, a much smaller adjusting pulley just below it between the camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley. there is a large flat washer type flange right behind the crankshaft bolt which will slide off and allow you to remove the belt behind the flange wrapped around the crankshaft pulley. Take a pair of needle nosed pliers and remove the adjusting pulley spring from the little pin on the right and them unbolt the adjusting pulley from the front of the engine.

It is best to turn the crankshaft clockwise with the old belt until you align the two lines marked on the camshaft pulley at the 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock position. Check to see if there is a small triangle on the crankshaft pointing up at 12 o'clock on the crank gear notch. This is where this must align at. If you old belt is broken and you are unable to do this, simply align the marks as stated above and then check them after the new belt is replaced. You must start the new belt onto the crankshaft first, then work up the right side to the camshaft pulley and keep it tight between the gears along the right hand side. It will be loose on the left side. Now re-install the spring and adjusting pulley. When installed, slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise two complete turns which will turn the camshaft pulley only one turn and bring the camshaft gear marks back to the 12 and 3 o'clock position. The crankshaft gear should line up also again. Then reverse the entire process and put it all back together. This should get it fine. Just did this to my 1996 at 86k. It was so stretched out that the adjust spring was all the way over and the belt was very loose. Now runs great!!! Good Luck!