Ford Aspire

ther should be four (4) small holes in the front of the radio. You can use small nails by pushing them into the holes. Once you have all four in you gently pry the nails to each side of the radio. this releases the clips holding the radio in. Once they are released you just pull the adio out It is easier with two people to complete this. have one on each side. Note: it does not take alot of sideways pressure to relaease the clips

Use 5W30 and if you want to know what brand I would suggest valvoline brand.

The fuse box is below the steering wheel beside the hood release.

Look around the edges of the panel and there should be four or five screws that you have to undo. Look carefully they may have plastic caps over them. You also must remove the cover on the mirrior it should just pop off.

I do believe that's a rebadged Mazda Demio - Z development of their B engine - ask a Mazda mechanic.

I don't know if the 1995 is the same , but the ( 1996 ) Ford Aspire uses

Motorcraft MERCON automatic transmission fluid in the manual trans-axle

( manual transmission )

175 pounds

It means moving around the car going in front of you at a permissible level of speed so that you start moving ahead and the car you are trying to 'pass' starts travelling behind you.In real short terms it just means over-taking the car going in front of u.

I replaced water pump had to remove timing belt installed water pump installed timing belt car won't start.

I was told yesterday by the tech at jiffy lube that my 2003 cts has a "sealed" transmission-NO DIPSTICK! Cannot check level-he said maybe a dealer can. He also said the chassis was "sealed"-no lubing necessary.

it does not have one its a sealed unit

the reset botton is in the very back on your left hand side a little red button in a little door

its pretty easy to do, you will need a 1/2 inch drive 19 or 21 mm socket, I got a set made for impact tools ( strong ) for 10 bucks at big lots, a torque wrench capable of reading 75 ft./ lbs, These can be pricey, ask around and see if anyone can lend you one, if that has no luck then buy one at sears. You will also need a jack, jack stands, rubber gloves brake dust remover, a parts washer is a good idea, rags, bearing grease(synthetic is best), new bearings, new cotter pins, new dust seals and a flat level firm surface to work on. First step, get all the stuff I just mentioned, and stuff Im gonna mention later in this rambling post, before you do anything. It makes the end result much safer easier and more reliable than new. at the flat spot, park the vehicle in gear, key removed from ignition switch and placed outside vehicle all tools and parts removed from vehicle and emergency brake engaged. You should get a 1/2" drive breaker bar and 14 mm socket and loosen the lug nuts, make sure the hub is cool when you do this. After both sides are done release the emergency brake and jack the vehicle up at the axle beam, then put the jack stands underneath the outer body lip. remove the wheels and tires and place off to the side or use for a seat, remember to put something on the tire before you sit on it, I know some of you are trying to do this in your roca wear shirt either to pee off your ex or be crazy because of summer madness. Next, you'll need a large slotted adjustable plier big enough to pry off the 2 1'2 inch dust cap in the center of the hub. Clean off any excess grease and you will see a large cotter pin. Pry each arm of the cotter pin down with a pair of needle nose pliers so the pin is straight.pull the cotter pin out with the needle nose pliers or a pair of wire cutters. Test fit the 1/2 inch 19 or 21 mm socket to find which one fits snugly. to unscrew the drivers side you must turn the nut counterclockwise. It has a left hand thread. sad. oh well. once the nut is removed brake drum and bearings should slide right off. If not a crack on the drum should loosen the rust holding them in place. take a small point punch, place the brake drum on a hard flat surface and hammer out the bearing races from the opposite side of the race being removed. use a long flat head screwdriver and stick it underneath the rubber part of the dust seal and smack it out with a hammer. After the dust seal is removed, If you want to make it a little easier heat up the drums in an oven to about 250 degrees for 25 minutes, make sure the drums are completely clean of any grease, solvents or water before placing in the oven, and make sure you cant use the oven for cooking food ever again, if you need to bake stuff again use the stovetop burners, just be careful use strong heat proof gloves, and potholders, once the drum is heated to temperature place on a hard flat surface and pour cold water on the bearing race still in the drum, then hammer it out with one wack on the punch. clean the spindle and inspect the brake shoes, wheel cylinder,strut, spring, strut boot, strut mount, torsion bar inside the axle beam If you need parts, check out festiva motorsport.com or your local auto parts store. replace any suspect parts by the way tein makes a great adjustable suspension kit for 900 bucks it takes the aspire to race car level, but there are options for any budget, I like to keep mine in the 100 dollar range, but that's me. install new races into the drum by lubing up with motor oil or assembly lube. Use a socket that fits on top of the race, and hammer around the socket lightly in a circle. again an oven helps, you can heat up the drums and expand them slightly to make installing the races easier. grab your gloves and the lube, its bearing packing time, get a big glob of grease and get your palms all covered thick in grease, then grab the bearing and rub it swiftly lengthwise across your palm to pack the entire bearing with grease. this requires a while, you want both whole bearings packed in thick with grease. place the inner(backside of drum) bearing in place, then install the grease seal flat side out, use a socket the same thickness as the inside of the bearing race and lightly tap it in with the hammer. you want the dust seal to be evenly pressed into the drum, a millimeter or so below the lip of the seal bore.make sure a bit of grease is rubbed on the lip of the seal and slide the drum onto the spindle . install the spindle nut, look up the correct torque for this, then torque it. turn the drum and check torque again , make sure the drum turns freely with no grinding feel while turning, it should freewheel with little drag but still not have any side to side movement. install the wheels, install the lug nuts, snug the lug nuts, lower the vehicle, set the e brake, torque the lug nuts to spec and drive away happy. and confident that you can do a motor swap. peace!

the distributer could have gone bad on you. To say they were problamatic on the aspires is an understatement. i personally believe they should have been recalled. there is a service bulletin on the distributer, and a replacement available, but it's not free. the basic problem is that the coil is built into the distributer, and when it starts overheating it fries the ignition module. on most cars the fis is simple, a $20 ignition module or a $50 replacement coil. but life can never be that easy, because the distributer is completely non servicable. i looked it up in the shop manual, the procedure for repairing a distriibuter problem reads "replace distributer with new model". the news only gets worse too my friend because not only is the distributer not servicable, it's also not diagnosable. the powertrain book lists test for the coil, but not the ignition module. and if you take it into your friendly auto parts store to be tested they will either turn you away immediatly or rummage around in the drawer of connectors for about 10 minutes before they tell you they can't help you. bottom line is you have 3 choices a rebuilt stock model distributer at about $280, the new upgraded ford part at about $580 or a junkyard distributer for about $30. i have had a junkyard one that lasted 30 miles and a rebuilt stock one that lasted 4 days. never tried the new ford unit so i can't give any advice about that except that it's too expensive.

pull your timing belt cover/#1 plug/closest to the cover/ adj so piston 1 is at tdc crank timing mark should be in between pointer/ adj cam gear 1 mark at top with valve cover on 1 mark at right with top of block looks like L shape /put on belt and tighten tensioner/rotate dist to #1 caution dont hit pistons with valves when adj crank or cam for aligning timing marks good luck,

With mine it was bad wires and plugs and the needed clean the rotor wheel or distrib.cap

You Dont.

Get a life nerdy kids.

An axle is something that a wheel would normally spin on.

Similar thing happened on my 94 Aspire. The bracket is made of several pieces of sheet steel, put together with spot welds. Every time you push the clutch the steel flexes. After so many times of pushing the clutch, the spot weld snaps from metal fatigue. I'm betting the replacement bracket you got was from a junk yard, so it too had been flexed alot. If this happened with your bracket, take the two pieces and line them up in their original position. Use vise grips to clamp them together and drill a hole for a bolt. A 1/4" bolt should be enough. Make sure it's short enough that it doesn't interfere with the travel of the the clutch or brake pedal. It's just about impossible to line up the bracket pieces and drill them when they're in place on the car. There's just not enough room to get a drill in and around everything under the dash. A flexible spring-type extension for a drill might work if you're lucky to have one. If you're a pack-rat, you saved the first bracket. You can fix that off the car and swap it out with the broken one. Either way you'll probably have to take out the one that's in the car now. You may want to think about disconnecting the negative battery terminal while fooling around under the dash. If you you slip with the drill and catch the wrong wire you could get unlucky enough to set off the airbag.

Open the drivers door ( or left side door ) and you will see an information

sticker on the latching pillar that shows the original tire size on the vehicle from

the factory ( I believe it was 165 / 70 / R13 )

remove rear seat and then remove access panel

first astronaut to go int space 1961 so this was 54 years ago when this happened

Yes, but removing the rear spindle is a lot of work and may require power tools or a press.

A better alternative and a common modification for a Festiva is to swap the front hubs and rear end from an Aspire to a Festiva. This allows you much larger brakes, removable disc brakes up front, a rear torsion bar for much better handling. Some would say the swap is almost required as the Festiva stock brakes and suspension is horrible.

The XFI metro has 49 horses

the base metro 3 cyl has 55 horses

a 1.3 4 cyl metro has 70 horses.