Ford Expedition

The 4.6 and 5.4 engines are famous for bad plugs and coils. You will need to either have a shop diagnose the problem, or you if you can recreate the issue and the MIL light flashes, the computer will tell you which cylinder is the problem. You could check each coil for resistence, should have about 5.5 ohms from the B+ connector to the end of the coil (where the plug goes). Anything less than about 5.3 ohms will likely cause you problems. Normally, just doing the plugs willc lear the problem if you are not getting a full misfire and your MIL light flashing

(Licenced Technician) -- Loose steering / wander can be caused by almost anything; bad alignment to worn steering linkage to bad balljoints to broken springs, worn steering gear, incorrect tire pressure (too high or too low), worn / mismatched tires, even wear in the steering column can cause this. In extreme cases, I have seen vehicles that would not drive properly, even with a front end that was 100% and an alignment that was all in spec. It turned out the vehicle's frame was still damaged after an accident. I would strongly recommend getting this professionally checked; a 1994 GM likely still has original (read: non-greaseable) front end joints and are likely getting play in them. .

undo the trim plates around the top of the seat and all trim around it and it just pops out, no bolts screws or clips.

Its completely free.

Torx T 40 socket

After starting the car and turning the car off, remove the radio fuses. there are 2 of them ( I believe they are #7 and #31 refer to your manual). Start your car for a second your radio won't come on cause the fuses are pulled, turn the car right off , put the fuses back in. Start the car. The radio will initialize, let it cycle thru, then it should work.

2nd place

going into space

The fuel pump is in the fuel tank. You'll have to drain the tank. Unhook the fuel lines and electrical lines. Unbolt the straps that hold the tank on. There will be a lock ring to hold the fuel pump in the tank. Take this off and remove the unit. Unless you buy the sending unit and fuel pump unit as a single piece, you'll have to remove and replace the pump from the sending unit. Install in reverse order.

On a 2003 Ford Expedition :

The Mass Air Flow Sensor is between the engine air filter and the big engine

air intake tube . If it's the same as on my Ford Explorer it is INSIDE a

circular shaped plastic housing ( you can see where the wires enter the

housing )

On a 1999 Ford Expedition , 4.6 liter V8 engine :

It has the Electronic Distributorless Ignition System ( EDIS ) and uses

( 2 coil packs that each have 4 towers for the spark plug wires )

I believe the coil packs are mounted on the FRONT of the engine

on each side of the " V "

According to the 2004 Ford Freestar Owner Guide :

For both the 3.9 liter V6 and the 4.2 liter V6:

With engine oil filter change :

( 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 engine oil )

cyl#4 1s on right side last cyl right side front to bak 1 2 3 4 left side front to back 5 6 7 8 hope this helps

Usually that flashing light means that something in the AWD system isn't functioning right or at all. Your AWD won't work until the problem is fixed, take it to a mechanic and they can diagnose the problem.

You have to remove the whole inside top, the sun v,the overhead console and the hanger hooks. It's a lot of work. But if your car is leaking or the sun roof is off track be prepared to spend about 6 hours fixing it.

There are 4 02 sensors. For the 5.4L engine, Bank 1 sensors are on the right side exhaust, sensor 1 is in front of the catalytic convertor (tucked up between converter and the manifold joint). Sensor 2 is in the exhaust pipe behind the resonator (?-I'm really not sure if this is a second cat. conv., resonator, muffler or what...). The Bank 2, sensors 1 & 2 are in the same positions on the left side of the vehicle, but sensor 1 is a little easier to access. That's MY QUESTION: Can anyone tell me how to access Bank 1, Sensor 1??? I can see it, and I've unplugged it (with a little difficulty), but I can't get a wrench on it!

distributor located under the water pump. I had to change mine. Usually what happens is as soon as the engine warmed up, it was running like crap.

The best thing that I can tell you to do is to first check the 3 fuses for

the system. They are Fuse #6 (5 amp) under the dash, and fuses #4 (15 amp) and

#15 (50 amp) in the engine bay fuse box.

Next, you will need to gain access to the air ride control module. Look at the

plug going into the side of the module and find pins 1, 4 and 21. Pins 1 and 21

will have power at all times (if not, you have a bad wire or a bad Air ride

Service switch (passenger foot well area). Pin 4 will have power when the

ignition switch is in the RUN position. If no power here, then you have a

wiring issue or a bad fuse (fuse #6 under the dash).

Next, put the truck into a position that it would normally raise the suspension

to normal height. Measure from pin 30 to chassis ground. Should have 12 VDC

there. If not, you have a bad control module.

Next, remove the relay for the compressor motor. Look on the relay and you will

see that the terminals are marked with the letters A, B, C, and D. Where

terminal A plugs in, verify that you have 12 VDC there. If not, you have a bad

50 amp fuse. Next, verify that you have ground where terminal D connects. If

you don't have ground here, then you have a bad wire between the relay and the

control module.

Finally, with the relay removed, install a jumper (14 gauge solid core wire)

between where terminals A and B are. Does the compressor work now? If no, then

you have a sensor issue (write me and I will help you with that).. If yes, then

you have a bad relay.

Hope this helps.

YES first of all the design pressures are only indicating what the pressure test at the factory was. a normal r22 system when running should have a low side pressure of 50 -60 and the highside will vary aroung 200 - 275. Your low side pressure is too high and your high side pressure is too low for the outside temperature and the low side pressure. Are you sure about these numbers? If your suction(low) pressure is reading 75psi then your high side should be reading well over 200psi. At an outdoor temp of 64 degrees, it seems that your suction pressure is too high. Block the airflow of the condenser fan w/cardboard,etc...if the high side gets a little higher and the low side goes up with it, then the valves in you compressor are shot and you need a new unit. This is caused by too high of head pressures (lack of airflow, dirty outside coils), lack of oil return to the compressor, or constantly running in an undercharged state. Sorry for the bad news.

PVC Valve is located valve cover / crankcase cover. Removal; 1. Disconnect the oil separator hose from the PVC valve. 2. Remove the PVC valve from the grommet in the crankcase. 3. inspect the grommet for deterioration. To Install; 4. If necessary, replace the crankcase grommet. 5. Install the PVC valve. 6. Install the hose.

It sounds like the transmission valve body is getting old and tired. It could also be a partially plugged transmission filter. Try getting the transmission fluid changed. If that doesn't help you can sometimes get few extra miles out of an old, tired transmission by adding a little transmission seal conditioner such as Trans-X.

a good idle is usually at 1200 rpm. 600-800RPM

A time machine back.

The # 2 engine cylinder is misfiring

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of Ford Expedition