Location of foglight fuse in a 2003 ford explorer?
Click on the link below
Click on Owner Guides
The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagrams ) can be viewed online
What is the correct tire pressure for Ford Explorer 1995?
I have a 1995 Ford Explorer XLT - originally the recommended inflation pressure was 26 PSI - I received a revised sticker recommending 30 PSI ( cold ) for recommended Firestone tires . I had my Firestone ATX tires replaced for free under the recall with Michelin LTX all terrain tires ( P235/75R15 ) and I have been running 29 or 30 PSI in the Michelins for over 7 years now and if anything it's the inside and outside edges that are wearing quicker than the center of the tread so that works for me
Why does the info center say low oil pressure on a 2005 explorer?
I would say you have low oil pressure. Change the oil and filter. Use 5w20 oil or 5w30 whichever your owner's manual lists, and install a quality filter such as Motorcraft, Purolator, or Wix. Do not use any other weight oil. If the oil pressure is still low stop driving the vehicle and seek professional help.
Where is the turn signal fuse or the flasher fuse on an 01 Explorer Sport Trac neither is working?
fuse 10 on the fuse pannel it is a 7.5 amp fuse in the dash (the one covered by the door) open door and pry off the cover, is a tight fit but I haven't broken it yet. Note: this fuse will continue to blow until you find the short I am still triing to find the cause of mine"
How to reset fuel pump in 2005 ford explorer?
If you don't smell gas or see any gas leaking :
push the reset button down that has popped up on the top of the switch ( the fuel pump inertia / shut off switch is in the front passenger footwell by or behind the kick panel )
turn the ignition key to the RUN position for a few seconds and then turn the ignition key to the OFF position
make another check for any gas leaking or the smell of gas , if none , go ahead and start the engine
Car is locked no access how to access without key code?
Call a locksmith. There is no way to retrieve the code from outside.
1998 ford explorer break warning light?
The brake warning light comes on in your dash if the emergency brake is on or the
brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder in your engine compartment is LOW
Your dash board light turn and off 93 ford explorer 4x4?
It seems like you have a problem with the fuse for your dashboard. Locate the fuse and switch it for a new fuse.
What does it mean when the brake light on the dash will not go off?
When it happened on my 95 Lumina Van it was the rear brake cylinder, a $4.00 part. The car couldn't be driven according to the mechanic, so it cost me $100.00 to have replaced.
How do you wire an alternator?
Usually, these things are made so you can't mess it up by "keying" the connection. I'll assume the connection is broken since your asking. the positive (+) output (usually red) is plugged to the Positive side of the automotive circuit and the Negative (-) output (usually black) is connected to chassis ground or the negative side of the automotive circuit.
If its not clear what side is positive and negative, you should take it to a professional that will do a good job and has more knowledge.
How do you take the fuel filter out of a 1996 ford explorer?
I have a 1996 Ranger, which, I believe, has the same frame as an explorer of that same model year. So I'm going to tell you what I did, and maybe it will work for you.
First, you need to go buy the replacement, because you're going to want to have it handy before you take the old one off. Check at your auto parts store for the brand and model. Mine cost me, I think, about $8 at Walmart.
Second, while you are at the auto parts store, ask about a "compression tool". Though this comes in different sizes, they should be able to tell you which size you need when you give them the make and model of your vehicle. I bought one that had two ends for two different sizes. If they can, have them show you, with the new filter, how the compression tool works, because it's difficult to explain.
You are also going to need a pair of pliers, the longer the handle, the better, and you may find a long, flat-head screwdriver useful.
Third, though this is not an essential part of the operation, I highly recommend you find an old piece of carpet, or something, to lay on while you are under your truck. If it works for you like it worked for me, you're going to be there a while, and you want to be as comfortable as possible. You might also think about jacking your truck up, and when I say "think about it", I mean REALLY think about it. Sure, it will give you more room to work. But you're going to be UNDER that thing, and if it slips off the jack, you're dead! If you do it this way, make damn sure to your parking brake is fully engaged. And it's best to use jack stands, rather than just a the jack. Or better yet, wheel ramps. Blocks in fron of and behind all wheels on the ground is also a damned good idea. And while I'm on the subject of safety, understand that you are very likely to be exposed to gasoline dripping from the filter or the lines. So no smoking.
Before you slide under your truck, take the cap off your gas tank. This will relieve any pressure in your gas lines and make your task easier.
As you've probably figured out by now, the fuel filter is on the underside of your truck. Thankfully, it's not in the gas tank itself, as in some vehicles. To locate the filter, slide your head under the driver's side, at right about the front edge of the front door. Locate the left frame member, which runs almost the entire length of your truck, roughly parallel to, the left side of the truck. It's about a foot from the edge. The cross-section of this frame member looks like a square bracket [ It's about 4-5 inches tall and 2 inches wide. Once you locate this frame member, keep sliding under your truck until you can see the INSIDE of the member, the side facing the center of the truck. When you can see that, look up and down its length until you see the old fuel filter, which is shaped exactly like the new one you just bought (assuming you got the right model). Of course, the old one will be quite a bit dirtier.
Now, at this point, you are going to realize that it is not exactly easy to get to this fuel filter. Yes, you can touch it, but it's going to be hard to manipulate it in the tight space. Reposition yourself as best you can to access the filter.
Now, note that there are two fuels lines connected to the filter. Both of these will have to be disconnected. But note also that there is a wide clamp holding the filter in place. It may be easier to manipulate the filter if you first remove it from this clamp. You can try any of the remaining steps both ways and see what works for you.
As for which line to remove first, I'm not sure. I know that I removed the line from the tank first, and it was fairly easy, and didn't even require the use of the compression tool. But the line to the engine was incredibly difficult to get off, and I wondered, in hindsight, whether it would have been easier if I had taken the line to the engine off first. Anyway, the point is, you have to get both lines off, and at least one of them is going to require the use of the compression tool.
If it works like mine, the tank line will slide off relatively easily. Grasp the stem on the fuel filter with your pliers and hold the line with your other hand, and pull apart. Twisting will help. If this doesn't work, see if your compression tool will help, as explained in the next paragraph.
Now, the line going to the engine. This was a real bear for me, even with the compression tool. I'm going to try to explain the structure of this connection and how the tool works. The line to the engine has a female end, with the male-end stem of the fuel filter stuck inside it. The female coupling on the line has a "compression ring" inside it that locks tightly around the male stem of the filter. The harder you pull on that filter, the tighter that compression ring gets, and you'll NEVER get it out like that.
That's why God gave us the compression tool. Look closely at this tool. Though it comes in different shapes, its basic construction is two halves of a short tube that, when folded together, form a complete tube. It will also have some kind of handle that you use as a lever. What you have to do is enclose put the tool so that the two halves of the tube are on either side of the fuel filter stem, then fold the two halves together so they completely surround the stem. Then slide the tool up the stem until it enters the rim of the female coupling on the engine line. It should fit inside the rim. Now, here's the hard part. You have to apply enough pressure to this compression tool, in the direction of the coupling, to slide that compression ring back, futher up inside the coupling. As it goes back, the internal geometry of the coupling pushes it away from the stem, so you have room to slide it out. Now, that was pretty easy to SAY, but it's a pain in the butt to actually DO. First, you really need about 3 hands to do this. You need to hold the coupling with one hand and the compression tool with the other, as you push them together. But then, when and IF you can get compression ring forced back, you need another hand to pull the fuel filter stem out. Problem is, two people can't get under there at the same time. And, the fact of the matter is, it isn't really easy for you to get both of YOUR hands in place, because of all the obtructions that are in there. Then you have the issue of a lack of leverage on your compression tool. You need to be exerting force toward the coupling, but the handle of the tool is 90 degrees off from that angle. This whole thing is just a real pain in the butt, and you can't understand it until you're under there trying to get it done. And the whole time, gasoline is dripping in your face. I'm telling you, unless you're really broke, you're better off paying an auto shop to do this for you.
Anyway, I busted my knuckles for THREE HOURS trying to get the compression fitting loose, and finally just GAVE UP because it got too dark to see. I came back the next day to try again. I slid under the truck and grabbed the filter and just pulled it back a little so I could see the fitting, and the damned thing came right off in my hand. Almost zero effort, like pulling a thumbtack out of a cork board. All I can figure is that there was some huge negative pressure holding everything together, and that pressure released slowly overnight. Maybe cooler temperatures helped, or maybe it was just time. But one way or another, it came off really easy after twelve hours of just sitting there. So maybe that's the thing to do. Just take the tank line off, let it sit overnight, THEN try the engine line.
What are the cylinder head torque specs for a 1996 Ford Explorer 6 cylinder?
For the 1996 Ford Explorer 4-wheel drive 4.0 liter 6-cylinder engine, the head bolt torque for step one is 44 ft. lbs. For step two, the torque is 59 ft. lbs., and for step three, turn an additional 80 to 85 degrees.
The intermittent digital odometer is a common problem in 1999 through 2003 Ford F-series pickups (F150, F250 and F350) and full-size SUVs (Expedition & Explorer) that have digital odometers. There have also been reports of similar symptoms in a few 2005 models.
The intermittent fading or blank odometer problem is generally caused by defective solder joints on a printed circuit board located on the back of the instrument cluster.
Ford dealers routinely replace the entire instrument cluster as the standard repair procedure. The problem with this is that unless the cluster is covered under warranty, the cost of repairs may be as much as $600.
Used clusters are less expensive, but they are prone to the same problem. Used clusters must be programmed to the vehicle mileage and the ignition keys will have to be programmed to the PATS system in the used cluster before the vehicle will start. The cost of programming these will likely be in the hundreds of dollars, making the used cluster a much less desirable option.
The most economical solution is to repair the problem yourself. The only cost is a couple hours of your time. There's good information about repairing the problem yourself on several Ford forums. Also, a complete website dedicated exclusively to Ford intermittent odometer problem can be found at www.odometer-repair.com .
You could have a faulty bulb. Check for contact in both bulbs if they are new.
Where is the cabin filter or dust-and-pollen filter located on a 2003 ford explorer?
I don't think there is one. I just looked in the glovebox manual for my 2003 Limited and could find no mention of one
What would cause a surge at steady speeds in a Ford Explorer?
Both a friend and I, each driving 1995 Ford Explorers with the 4.0 L OHV engine, developed an off and on surging problem at speeds over 37 MPH. The problem was corrected by installing a new set of Ford Motorcraft platinum spark plugs. In my situation I only had 41,000 miles on the original plugs but 2 of them already had gaps wider than the specified range.
Changeable means inconsistent, irregular, or able to be changed. The weather can be changeable with rapid temperature drops and bursts of rain showers.
What is the fuel tank capacity for a 96 ford explorer?
The 4 door holds 21 U.S. gallons ( 79.5 liters )
How do you remove ford explorer lug nut hub cap?
There is one spot on each aluminum alloy wheel that has an indentation in it that allows you to carefully use the tapered end of your lug nut wrench to remove the center cap . Just insert the tapered end and slowly give it a twist. I like to slip a cloth over the tapered end , because it is quite easy to put a nick in the cap
How do remove the subwoofer from a 1999 ford explorer Screw are out but will not come out?
The speaker will have a foam gasket between the flange and the mounting hole, which may or maynot be adhesive backed to avoid rattling do to vibration. Pry very carefully and slowly with a small putty kife. A side note: sometimes the woofer does not pop out that simply, some have something else holding them in the box... i do not have an answer at this time since I am also running into this issue there is a bolt behind the unit. it's held in place with 4 bolts
How do you tell a 4.0 ohc engine ford from a 4.0 sohc?
On a Ford 4.0 liter V6 engine :
The 4.0 liter EFI engine is the Over Head Valve / pushrod design engine
( the 8th " character " of the VIN is an " X " )
For the 4.0 liter SOHC , V6 engine ( the 8th " character " of the VIN is an " E " )
* or " K " if it is a flex fuel engine