Ford Tempo

Lento is one of the words for slow.

Lento

moderate

go numericly, from 1 to the highest Allways be sure the batt. is disconnected, but it souldn't matter. Start with #1 as suggested, so to keep track easier.

Actronix makes a hand held scanner that you can buy for about 30 bucks or you can take it to a dealership and they'll pull the codes. It isn't a standard interface, so most auto parts stores will want to sell you the doodad, but won't let you just use it.

when ford assembled the car they put the drum on and then put a crimp at the edge of all the lug bolts. take a wire brush and clean around the lugs right at the drum and you will see where the threads are pinched, by doing this the miss shaped metal holds the drum tight on the axle, use a grinder or a file to remove the burrs and the drum can be removed with a mall, be careful not to damage the lugs to much when doing this.

Either you might use a universal socket attachment or just loosen the large bolt on the alternator. Move the alternator slightly on the pivot enough to get the ratchet in to comfortably loosen and re-tighten the spark plugs. However, marking the starting position of the alternator before loosening may be wise. So as to more closely reposition back to proper belt tension afterward.

The turn signal relay may be the problem if the turn signals in a Ford vehicle are blinking slowly. This relay is usually part of the electronic control module located near the engine.

Milliliters are a unit of volume and, like distance, can only be positive.

Torque for valve cover bolts is 7 to 10 ft. Lbs . Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern .

.54 Gap

The fan relay is an integral part of the body control module (it also houses the fuel pump relay) this module is about 6"x4"x2" and has gobs of wires coming out of it, the module is mounted on a bracket under the hood that is bolted to the top of the driver's side front strut. I would check the other components first before I start messing with the control module. You should check the actual fan motor (unplug the connector and jump line from the positive battery terminal to the fan,the side that the blue wire was connected and don't forget to ground the other fan contact) also check to see if the fan is getting any power from the harness (disconnect fan connector and put a 12v test light or meter on the harness and start the car, when the engine gets warm enough the light should turn on if it does replace the fan motor) also check the heat sensor located on the thermostat housing this actual turns the fan relay on when the engine reaches a certain temperature. Also the fan is supposed to turn on when the airconditioner is in use, this is done by a fan controller( I'm not too sure about its location yet). I myself am experiencing the same problem with the fan not working and the car overheating if it sits idling too long. when I figure mine out I'll post it to this site

Code 15 Means ROM test failed

It gets poked in the back, behind the valve cover, it doesn't connect to anything it just lets the oil breathe lol.

146

we are the world of tempo

Take the 2 screws out above the assembly and push it off. EX. right side push of the right side of the car.

it has struts on both front and back. most auto part stores such as o'rielly's will carry a tool you can rent to replace them.

Why no, not at all. Molli Harr is one of the coolest, nicest, most awesome people alive.

Press and hold the volume knob in

use the tune and select buttons to change hour and minute respectively

moderate

Ambot

sounds like a vacum leak in the temperature control panel or from the engine to the control panel, the line from the engine to the control panel is black, and gets split at the panel, has the engine been running a little rough or a lack of power, this might explain it

On my 88 Tempo, it's in the rear passenger side corner on the return line of the accumulator. (next to the low pressure switch)