Geo Prizm

The root word.

Get a wiring diagram to find all that is on that fuse then look from there. Get one from MOTORLIT.COM.

I have a 95 and am working on this right now. This answer should apply to years 93-97.

As many of you probably know, most of the time it goes bad it is not the $150 starter itself, it's the $5 contacts (just hit 80K mi?). Good news is, these are easy to replace ... once the starter is off.

Bad news is two-fold, although references to these contacts or 'brushes' are numerous, they are difficult to track down. The other bad news is actually accessing the mount bolts to physically remove the starter is challenging.

The top bolt is located on the backside of the engine, closest to the windshield. Hard to describe without a photo, but it's about the center of the engine, towards the bottom. It is next to a similar looking bolt, but the one you want is closest to the windshield. It is almost a necessity to remove the pair of hoses that connect from the engine to the heater. Use a pair of pliers to get at the clamps, then wiggle them free. Coolant spillage will ensue. Loosening a couple of other elictrical connections helps marginally, such as the obvious one to the distributor cap. In fact, taking out the air filter and its housing will also give you a little more space and is easy, but isn't necessary. Be prepared, you will most likely need a pipe attached to your wrench to create the torque to crack the bolt head.

The vehicle must be lifted (safety please!) w/ either a lift or ramps to access the bottom bolt. After the car is on the ramps or before it goes on a lift, this is the time to disconnect your battery. Theres not much else there; if you know what your starter looks like you should be able to see it along w/the batter connections. The bottom bolt head faces the opposite direction of the top. You will need to work towards the passenger side wheel, and find the room w/ your wrenches and extensions to create the necessary torque with both the exhaust manifold and the suspenion/axle in the way. I recommend disconnecting the two battery hook-ups first.

Once its free, actually sliding it out requires careful manuvering. A mechanic recommended taking it out through the topside(hood), but I had success manuvering the contraption out throught the suspension, around the manifold, through what can best be described as the most obvious spot. Tricky.

There are instructions on the net for rebuilding the starter in detail, as most of the nippon denso fail for the same reason. Quick synopsis: remove the tree smaller bolts on the pentagon shaped cover to the solenoid. CAREFULLY remove the nuts that hold the many parts onto the bolts (don't brake the small wires inside!), and remember their order/positioning. Your looking to replace the copper contacts that have a ridge worn in them (notice the battery side is more thoroughly worn).

Once you've identified and replaced, hooking it back up is easy enough.

I've relaced several of these starters and have never had to take the coolant hose off from the heater! It does help, but it's absolutely not necessary. The first one I did take off, it took me about 30 minutes. You definitely want to take the starter out from underneath.

There is also an alternate method to replace the starter without lifting the vehicle.

Please see the question "How do you change the starter on a 1996 Toyota Corolla?" Many of the instructions are the same for Corolla and Prizm since they are based upon the same development platform.

The rate of evaporation of water from the wet side, this is how relative humidity is measured.

As the water evaporates it effectivly 'uses' some of the heat energy which would otherwise be heating the thermometer.

The higher the relative humidity (water saturation of the air) the less water can evaporate and the lower the difference between the wet and dry side.

Formula for the volume of both a Prism and a Cylinder is V = Bh (where B = area of the base, and h = height)

geography

Check your fuses. Most newer cars have a lock switch for the transmission that prevents you putting it in gear unless you have your foot on the brake pedal.

The fan motor probably has a short in it. Replace it and see.

try pulling the drl relay located inside the hood passenger by side headlights. Or pull the fuse to the relay. Good luck,

It all depends on where the leak is. Most shops are going to charge you anywhere from $25 to 75$ per hour. If it's a valve cover gasket, just do it yourself. Personally, I'd change one for twenty bucks plus the cost of the gasket. Same goes for a faulty oil sending unit. If it's the crank seal, you're looking at a three hour job or there abouts. If it's the oil pan, you've probably got a two to three hour job. As I said, it all depends on where the leak is and where you take it. If you're handy, just do it yourself and save a bunch of money.

geo formd like babby

hi, the geo prizm was made by Toyota and gm.

REFER TO THIS FOR MORE INFO

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Prizm

hi, the geo prizm was made by Toyota and gm.

REFER TO THIS FOR MORE INFO

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Prizm

Remove number one spark plug and squirt some motor oil into the cylinder. Now do another compression test. If the compression goes up considerably in number one cylinder you probably have bad/worn or cracked piston rings. If the compression doesn't change much you probably have burned or bent valves.

I really don't understand the question. But I did have the problem where the handbrake was not fully releasing on a 1994 Geo Prizm. (I think the brake light stayed on). In order to solve this had to clean the rear drun brakes of brake-pad dust and buildup.

1. Set the car in gear and put wheel chocks on the tires to keep the car stationary.

2. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear tires.

3. Jack up the car. Put a kack stand under the car to be safe.

4. Remove the rear tire.

5. Place wet newspaper underneath the brake drun to collect any dust which falls when you remove the brake drum.

6. Remove the brake drum. The hand-brake was to be released at this step.

7. Don't blow on the exposed brake pads! Use brake cleaner to remove dust. Also clean out the brake drum.

8. Replace the brake drum

9. Replace the tire and put the lug nuts on finger tight/light torque. Don't try to tighten at this stage.

10. Lower the car and torque to spec (80 ft-lbs).

My daughter has replaced all the interior door handles on her 1998 Chevy Prism. We purchased new handles from a local dealer and she was able to install them herself by carefully removing the handle and reversing the process to install the new unit. However, she needs to replace an exterior door handle and we can't figure out how to start with this one.

I bought one from Ebay and uninstalled the previous one by removing the screw at the center, sliding the whole thing towards the steering wheel, prying it out a bit (at the side farthest from the steering wheel), popping out the "wire" that pulls the door opening mechanism from the plastic clip, and then prying the whole thing all the way. The wire is L shaped and goes through the yellow part (or white) first then continues to where the yellow parts meets the rest of the handle. To install, first pop the wire in, then push the whole thing in, then slide it back away from the steering wheel. Screw it in to secure.

I would start by checking and cleaning the battery cables.Might be something as easy as that. Also I would try hooking up jumpper cables to the connections under the hood. this would elimanate the battery and all cables from under the rear seat. If it starts fine with jumpper cables trace it backward to fine bad cable. now the bad news,if none of this helps it is most likely a bad start solinoid witch is mounted on top of the starter. More bad news the starter is under the intake manifold.This is a a job to remove the manifold and injectors and wiring to get to the starter.Hopefully the lose or dirt battery cables fixes the problem. Good luck, hope this helps, Ben Parker, San Jose, Ca.

difference between ordinary prism and constant deviation prism

It's inside the gas tank. Remove your back seat cushion and you should be able to access it through there. Of course you'll have to remove the plate covering it. If you put in a new one, make sure you get the strainer too. And change the fuel filter under the hood.

I just bought the instrument cluster out of one with the tach in it out of a junkyard. All of the wiring plugs are identical. Just a couple of screws to remove and three plugs on the back of it. 93 to 97 should be the same.

You need a special strut spring compression tool. Very very difficult to do it by yourself, unless you have this tool. Getting the struts off is not too hard, putting the new strut in is the hard part.

because the water causes the temperature to be lower

Either one are both good parts so it really does not matter. Go with the lowest priced.

The AC comp should have a bolt(s) to loosen that will release tension & maybe addit'l idlers. Do that, slip off belt, put new 1 on, pry against the belt with a crowbar & tighten bolt.

Most of gm's toyota/geo motors tend to burn oil after about 60,000 miles. Not much you can do about it except keep filling the oil up, or have the valve seals replaced in the motor=$$$$$$

I really don't agree with your answer. I've got a 93 Prizm with 123,000 miles on it and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. A friend has a 97 Metro with a 1.3 in it and it has 222,000 miles on it. Up until a couple of weeks ago when it blew the crank seal, it didn't use any oil either. This person could possibly have a clogged PCV valve or hose causing it to suck oil back through the intake system and burning it. Is the back of the car covered in a kind of black, greasy type looking film? If so, check that PCV system. A bad EGR valve could also be guilty.

Well, alot of car tend to burn oil when they get alot of miles on them, but 60k seems alittle early=you're screwed

New Input: Same problem with a 1999 prizm. Changed the PCV valve and added Lucas Oil Treatment. Since it cleared up immediately, I assume it was the PCV.

Just my 2 cents. I have 150k on my 94 Prizm and I don't burn any noticeable amount of oil. I change it about every 4 to 5k and that's it.