GMC Jimmy

Okay first of all there is a few things you need to know about these type of engines. You can not adjust the timing by the disturber. And second of all you'll need to look at the cap closely because being an old school mechanic such as myself you are used to pointing the rotor at the number one cylinder and that will not work on these. Okay, First you will want to pull the number one cylinder plug (that will be on the driver side front of your engine) Have someone bump the starter while you place a finger over the spark plug hole until it blows your finger off the hole. If possible you can now look at the crank and get the mark to line up to zero. You are now in top dead center of the compression stroke. A cheat I used because they don't seem to make a tool for it is that i used an old disturber i drove the pin holding the gear on at the bottom and took the gear off. Now you can use that "tool" to align the oil pump with the number one plug. You will notice on the cap that it has a mark like point build into it. Use the old tool to align the rotor with that point. That should get you back on the road.

You just ask a redneck how!!

U pull the arm all the way OUT or up (what ever)(the travel away from the windshield & @ the bottom where the anm connects there is a small lever on the side where it connects-JUST pull the little Lever out - maybe a 1/4 inch-DON"T FORCE IT-after the lever is out-The arm will lift right off.

dtc13----oxygen sensor

23---- 2.0 & 2.8L carburated....M/C solenoid circuit open or grounded

1.9L carburated....Vacuum control circuit open or grounded

I came back from my SuperTech....in less than 10 seconds...FIXED. He reached in with two fingers, slid the cam out from inside the top part of the lock...(it is shaped like a flattened out banana ...only it is about 3/4 of an inch long). The "jaws" opened and the lock catches the bars on the inside of the door and works as good as new!! Remember...do not force these cams, they slide open very easy.

5 on 4 3/4".

there are two tabs on the top of the headlight that you need to pull up i the air they you can remove the hole headlight and the bulb twist out of the headlight

Owners manual (available for download online) says 190 horsepower

Under the truck on the drivers side frame rail.

an easy way is to jack the front up, put it on jack stands and take off the front tires for more access to the plugs. use a "wobbler" end for a ratchet, that should give you enough room and coverage to get the plugs out without striping them.

When you say "flickering", do you mean that they stay on and are constantly going a little brighter and a little dimmer? That is often the voltage regulator trying to keep constant voltage, but allowing one or two volt range. When that happens, the lights will change brightness. It's annoying, but without changing the regulator in the alternator it won't go away. They start flickering on and off after they've been on for about 5 min. The car starts and runs fine, I was told it was probably a relay..... I checked the fuses under the dash. Do you have any other ideas?

30x9.5x15 unless u put spring shakles in the back and turn up the torsion bars in the front, then u can use 31x10.5x15. They will rub when u turn all the way unless u use offset rims. Iroc Z28 rims work good and look good

10w 40

Simply purchase the belt for a non air conditioned version of your vehicle and route the belt the same as the old one excluding the compressor

is there a southern ocean ? and where is it located

If it is the original drain plug it should take a 15mm.

How do i take my spar tier form under the 1992 ford E-150

On the transfer case, there is a set of vacuum lines. If any of them get old / brittle or melt, it will cause a vacuum leak. These trucks have a vacuum actuator under the battery that locks the front axle. if this unit is getting no vacuum, leaks, or is not connected to the cable, the problem you describe will happen. You can test your front axle by first putting your jimmy (or blazer) in 4LO, then shut off engine / apply parking brake. Jack the front wheels (both) off the ground at the same time. Have a friend try to rotate one wheel at a time while you manually push the vacuum diaphragm in on the unit beneath the battery. If the wheels stop turning, that means that your diff is ok. You need to start checking vacuum lines. if the wheels keep turning, well that's another story. Sometimes it takes a few rotations and a lot of fiddling to get it to actuate, cause normally you are driving forward slowly when it engages. You have to "replicate" that.

this wheel bearing is sealed and the whole bearing needs to replaced. take tire off and brake assembely. bungie cord the brake calliper out of the way and so the weight is not all hanging on the brake line. take the cap off the nut that is held by a pin. next step your problably don't have the proper tools to do. but you need to have a deep well socket that will fit that nut that's on the spindle. the hardest part will be to remove that nut. with a proper air gun and that socket you can get that off easily. once that's off take off the rotor and bearing put the back on the rotor and put back on spindle . that nut that was so hard to take off needs to torqued back on at manufacture specs put cap and pin in and put back brake assembly. i.e take cap off brake fluid so the brake callipers come off more easily and on.

if it is the ignition lock cylinder, first disconnect the battery, you need to remove the steering wheel ,turn signal switch , etc, then you need to insert the ignition key into the lock cylinder, turn it to the run position,then pull the cylinder out, reverse the operation to install the cylinder,

the spider injection leak would also make it run rough. you can tell it has a leak when, after you stop the car for a while after driving, it takes a moment to for enough gas to get in to ignite. almost like the sound of a carb bowl filling up. then it turns over. otherwise, check all of the sensors, the egr, the air intake, the oxygen sensor for carbonation and clean them. sometimes, that helps a bit...

after, disconnect the battery for ten to thirty seconds for the CPU to reset.

IT is underneath the car directly under the passenger side

you need to have this done by your mechanic it should run no more than 4 hours labor if you buy the pump. the pump goes inside the gas tank and should be about 125$

Start by removing the two Phillips screws in the door handle. Then remove the three holding the plastic trim strip at the back of the door next to the window. Now pull off the door panel. Grab the bottom of the panel and work your fingers behind it and just pull. It is held on by 5 or 6 plastic snaps. They might break but you can buy new ones at any parts store for like 2 or 3 bucks. To have easy access to the motor, unbolt the door handle bracket and remove all the plastic and foam insulation on the door. The bracket is the thing in the middle of the door sticking out with two 10mm bolts holding it down. There are now five rivets holding the motor in. It is actually attached to the entire window lifting mechanism and has to come out as one piece. I punched out the centers of the rivets and drilled them out with like a 1/4" drill bit. When there are two left you may want to brace the window up or have someone hold on to it because it will slide down on you. There is an electrical connector hooked to the assembly which you can unclip with your fingers. It is in one of the smaller holes toward the front of the door. Now you see at the big hole in the back of the door an arm that pushes the window up and down. With the window slid up and the rivets out, haggle with the arm and get it off the slide. This arm is attached to the lifting mechanism and the window motor. It's big and all comes out as one piece. That's the easy part. I have taken these things apart to see why this is such a common problem and it looks like the weatherproff sealing grease gets on the brushes and commutator of the motor and shorts out the motor. Theres just a bunch of black stuff in there. I cleaned it and put it back together with no improvement. So you will be needed a whole new motor and assembly. Good luck with the junkyards because this has happened on every jimmy I've owned and all that my friends have owned. I got lucky twice at the yard and found blazers that already had their motors replaced and worked good. But if you get one there have them hook it to a battery and raise it up and down a few times. Sometimes they work for a while and go out quick, plus most yards do not refund or exchange on any electrical parts. So that leaves the dealership and the parts store. Dealership probably wants way too much and I bet you can order these at any parts store also. I do not know how much they are but can't be more than 80 bucks. Good idea to take one of the plastic door panel snaps with you to get more. Now installation is opposite or removal. You can either re-revit or bolt the motor back in. You may have to tape the platic back in as the sealing goo is probably hard or worn off. Easy peasy, there you go. You probably just save 200-300 bucks over have a car place or dealer do it. Good luck!

I went thru this on a 2002 s-10 blazer. In this case their is a access hole thru the rear in gate panel. I had to peel the carpet back at the top-center of the panel. Behin the carpet in a knock out. It is about 3/8 of a inch tall and about 1 inch long. If you punch this out you will see a gold colored lever thru the hole. You can insert a screwdriver and slide towards the passengers side of the vehicle and the gate glass should pop open. Hope this helps, but remember this was on a 2002 yours may be a little different. Good luck, Techboy23