Honda Accord EX

The water pump is driven by the cam belt. This engine is an interference engine and as such it is critical that the cam belt be replaced correctly or severe engine damage will occur. In order to replace the water pump the cam belt must be removed. Unless you know what you are doing I suggest you take your car to a professional to have the water pump replaced and replace the cam belt at the same time. The cam belt must be replaced every 90,000 miles. If it breaks, severe engine damage will occur.

Well if you are hearing the clicking on both ends of lock and unlock switching, then that would be a good sign! This means that the relay module is working as far as it trying to move the lock motors located in the doors. Be sure to confirm that the clicking sounds your hear come from somewhere near the dash under part or from one of the doors closest to where the door attaches to the car and not where it opens away from the car. You are trying to locate the relay module by doing this. Next check would be to test the lock motors that would be located inside your doors. Remove your door panels to find the motors located somewhere near the open side or key cylinders. You will find 2 wires leading out of the motors; these wires alternate 12v positive and negative between the two depending on whether you

get it to a shop and let them do it

Which fuel pump? There are two fuel pumps on it. One is one the gas tank. Which you have to drop the gas tank and get to it. And the other one is bolted to the frame right under the drivers side door.

I own a 96, so I don't know how similar the engine compartment configuration is. But, if it is like mine, you just simply remove the lid and filter and there are a series of bolts that are easily accessible. Be sure to disconnect the intake from the throttle body to make it easier on yourself.

101 problems could exist but most likely it was caused by a poor transmission design. There are hundreds of complaints on file with the NHTSA about the sudden failure of this car's transmission at highway speeds. The cause is related to an issue that required a 2004 recall of several Honda models for excessive heat buildup and gear lockup. The resulting fix put in by Honda slowed the rate of failure, but did not address the underlying cause. You should have the transmission inspected by a specialist. Most shops will not charge you to inspect it if you have service done, but be prepared for a "transmission failure" diagnosis.

It depends on your vin number the Honda place should be able to tell you for like 20 bucks or so

The 2009 Honda Accord has 54.3 in. of rear hip room.

Anyone who proudly owns this beautiful car should know that the fuel pump is located under the back seats. You have to twist and pull up on the silver cap located under there. Have fun....it is not too hard at all. Unfortunatly that is incorrect. On the 1992 integra the gas tank must be dropped from the car. The only thing under the back seat is the gauge and the wires

If the light is coming on without you pushing the Sport Mode button on the gearshift lever, then you have a transmission problem. On the bright side, the fact the "S" indicator light came on indicates it is an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one. Time to visit a trusted transmission shop. Stay away from chain transmission shops. A Honda dealer or trusted independent is you best choice.

Inside the alternator.

Open the hood. Look for a yellow handle dip stick.

You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library -- make copies of the right sections as they are usually only available in the REFERENCE section...good luck :)

The alternator is on the passenger side of the car on the back side of the engine.

first disconnect the battrey then you have to pull all the brackets and stuff of the front of the engine .Then pull the harmonic ballancer (what the bottem pully is bolted to) you will need a harmonic ballancer puller. then you remove the egg shaped cover over the chain and sprockets you will want to line up the timing dots or lines on the gears by turning the engine over with large screw driver. so when you put the new gears and chain on your timing will be right .then just reverse the prosses to put it back together. Good luck!

SAE 5w-30

code should have been set by owner. Contact Honda, they probably have a master code, but they may ask you to prove ownership.

Change the fuel filter then, have the catalatic convertor checked out.

This is a brand new car. You have not already lost your owner's manual have you? This information is listed in your owner's manual. Don't have one, then get one. Sources are, Dealer, E-Bay, Salvage Yard, Google Search.

It Looks to me that you would have to remove the bumper first in order to get to the headlight........but I am not certain that would be the correct way

For a 1993 Accord. You need to remove the front bumper not as hard as it sounds. First remove the grill. Five screws and it pops out. If you're doing both sides, remove the battery and windshield washer tank. Remove the side marker lamps by unscrewing one screw for each lamp. Remove the turn directional lamps on the bottom of the bumper. Behind each lamp opening you will see two bolts that need to be removed. Directly above the directionals inside the engine compartment there is a threaded stud with a nut on each side, remove both nuts. After removing the four bolts and two nuts the bumper pull right off. Each headlight assembly has five screws holding it in, remove those and pull out the headlights. To install just reverse the process.

If it's the V6 (can't answer for the 4), it's not easy, a lot of the engine accessory area has to be disassembled for this and valve cover removed (requiring new valve gaskets which are probably leaking anyhow), etc. Anything regarding timing belt (or water pump), and front wheel bearings, I consider "non-user serviceable", it's something for Mazda or a reputable Mazda certified repair department to handle. For the timing belt, simply go to Mazda, tell them you need your 60,000 mile (or equivalent multiple) service performed, get your wallet out to the tune of $840 or so USA dollars, and have alternate transport for a couple of days. This will get a lot of stuff cleaned and checked up, if you buy the parts separately, including replacement gaskets (valve cover (front required, both should be done though since you are in there), timing cover gasket, etc, you'll end up spending more for the parts than Mazda does for the overhaul, trust me on that.

http://my.is/forums/f67/is300-changing-spark-plugs-340989/

The lightbulb for the clock is blown.

It depends on your vehicle. Majority of cars made after 2005 are equipped with the new advanced airbags or aka "3rd generation" airbags. Your car can actually take into effect how far you are from the steering wheel, if you're wearing your seat belt, how much you weigh, etc. and based on those fact decide during an accident if your airbag is needed. Although trust me, the car doesn't always make the right decision.

Really Easy,

First off Jack up the rear end, put Blocks Behind the front wheels for safety.

next up remove rear wheel, then using a flat screwdriver pry off the centre cap on the hub.

now using a 32mm socket and a decent breaker bar, (i used a standard power arm) break that centre nut free.

remove the 2 Philips head screws that hold the brake disk in place

then using a 13mm socket remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper on, theyre located behind the splashshield. while youre at it take a 11mm socket and remove the handbrake cableholder and the brake hose holder bolts.

now just swing that caliper out of the way, slide off the brake disk, and same for the hub. that's it, now just slide on the new hub and reassemble in order of removal.

on thing, the bearing kit comes as a complete hub unit with a new nut to go, the nut should already have a bit of a knock in its shoulder, that's where you want the nut to be tightened up to, no further or you just wasted your money on the kit.

hope this helps.

Michael.jackson47@ntlworld.com