Honda Accord LX

• 1

  Insert the key into the ignition. Turn the ignition switch to the "on" position. Do not start the engine.

• 2

  Press the "Sel/Reset" button repeatedly until the oil life indicator appears on the display.

• 3

  Press and hold the "Sel/Reset" button until the oil life indicator and maintenance code blinks.

• 4

  Press and hold the "Sel/Reset" button until the oil life indicator resets to 100 and the maintenance item code is no longer displayed.

F22B

No

17 gallons

Trouble code P1468 means: GLASS BREAK SENSOR DISCONNECT

The very top button on the right hand side of your radio reads "clock." Press that button and use the display/adjust knob to set the time.

Playing hard to get can mean two things..It can mean that the girl/boy is either scared, or just wanting to see if you really like them enough to chase after him/her. or it could mean that they want to see how long and how hard you are going to work for them to sleep with you.

EX and LX = generally under $2000.00 should be around $1500.00,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,HX over $2000.00

125-140 Horsepower!

There should be 1 or more smooth pulleys (idlers) that keep belt taught with spring tension. If you pry on them they move & once you have the slack, pull belt. before you do, ensure you have a routing diagram or note so everything will turn in right direction.

The oil in the Spark plug area would mean your seals are worn out. The valve cover has seals between the valve cover and the head. Once you replace the seals you should be good to go now as for the other part of the question i will pass on that one hope i was helpful.

The water pump is driven by the cam belt. This engine is an interference engine and as such it is critical that the cam belt be replaced correctly or severe engine damage will occur. In order to replace the water pump the cam belt must be removed. Unless you know what you are doing I suggest you take your car to a professional to have the water pump replaced and replace the cam belt at the same time. The cam belt must be replaced every 90,000 miles. If it breaks, severe engine damage will occur.

The good (for you) answer is that a mechanic needs to inspect them and see how much of the pad is left. How often this needs to be done depends on the mileage since replacement, the type of driving that you do (city/highway), how you drive and possibly the weight of your vehicle. On a big heavy SUV driven in city traffic by an aggressive driver the pads could wear out in less than 20,000 miles. On the other hand a compact pickup driven exclusively on the highway in a reasonable fashion could go 50,000 miles on a set of pads. The bad (for you) answer is you will hear the bare pad backing plates grinding on the roters. This is bad because it probably means the roters will have to be replaced as well as the pads, making the job much more expensive.

Minor edit: some pads have a "wear indicator" or squeaker. This is a thin piece of sheet metal that will contact the rotor when the pads are pretty worn out. If you hear a high-pitched squeak (only when braking) or an intermittent squeak-squeak-squeak when driving at low speed, this indicator is telling you that your brakes need to be looked at. There is usually a groove in the center of the pad - if this groove is worn through (like the treads missing on tennis shoes), then replace them. Or, if they are less than 25% of original thickness, I'd recommend replacement since they are not expensive. On a passenger car, the driver's side front brake (usually the outboard pad) receives the most wear, by far.

Well if you are hearing the clicking on both ends of lock and unlock switching, then that would be a good sign! This means that the relay module is working as far as it trying to move the lock motors located in the doors. Be sure to confirm that the clicking sounds your hear come from somewhere near the dash under part or from one of the doors closest to where the door attaches to the car and not where it opens away from the car. You are trying to locate the relay module by doing this. Next check would be to test the lock motors that would be located inside your doors. Remove your door panels to find the motors located somewhere near the open side or key cylinders. You will find 2 wires leading out of the motors; these wires alternate 12v positive and negative between the two depending on whether you

My mom has a 2000 Honda Accord Lx and had the same problem. It ended up being a faulty gas cap.

rear wheel drive

To fix the bent valves you'll have to do a bit of work to just get at them. You MUST buy a manual for your car which has the torque specifications and head bolt sequences. First you'll need to remove the head of the motor-- this is the part which holds the valves. It needs to come all of the way off and this takes a bit of time. It involves disconnecting a lot of items and sometimes removal of the whole engine. Again, get a manual. After the head is removed, you'll need to take it to a shop and get them to replace or fix and reseat the bent valves. This can be pricey. However, with a twenty-year-old car, it may not be worth it. I would say $200-$300 just to have the head work done. You can try to do this work yourself, but not even professional mechanics do it, they just send it to the shop. Everything has to be perfect for it to function right and seal properly with the cylinders again.

Ok, so after you've had the head worked on, you've gotta to reinstall the head, which involves buying a new head-gasket set (which can also be pricey but expect around $100 or more) and it has to be put on PERFECTLY. No messing around. Don't apply any gasket sealer or anything, just the gasket, but your manual will tell you exactly how to do it. Just remember, you need to torque it down to exact specifications and in the right sequence-- which means you need at least 1 if not 2 torque wrenches. You may need one for foot pounds and one for degrees. Look into this more if you don't know what this means.

After you have the head reinstalled, put everything back together, set your timing perfectly, and start her up.

If all this sounds expensive and time consuming, it is. You presumably need the new timing belt that broke, and should also replace the water pump if it is part of the timing assembly. I'd also recommend getting new timing tensioners and a camshaft seal, valve cover gasket, and front crankshaft seal. The reason for these extra parts is that since it's an older car, it's likely one of these will fail eventually too. IF they do, your timing will snap again and you'll bend the valves again and be back at square one. So, since they aren't very expensive, you should do it since you are sinking all this labor and money into it already.

However, I would walk away if I were you. Generally, if you have to ask how to replace valves, then you can't do the labor yourself (this coming from a guy who just took on the job himself!). And so many other things are bound to break down on a twenty year old car, that you may scrap it in 6 months anyway.

first of all, take inside panel off of door, then take out bolt holding glass, pull up on glass and tilt forward to release from track and vehicle. to take off door panel--remove all screws on arm rest and inside door handle, if you do not have a tool to take off clip holding crank on, just use a clean rag and move it back and forth behind crank for glass, the rag will catch end of clip and pop it off. to take panel off, use a screwdriver to pop panel off or something flat. panel pulls off, it has clps on the back that are in holes, when putting panel back on, be carefull not to bend the plastic clips. if so you can buy these at any auto parts store. you!!

The owners manual shows 10.3 quarts , but that is for the entire system : Transmission , torque converter , lines , cooler etc. My Haynes Ford Explorer repair manual shows the 5 quarts for the 4R70W transmission with the 5.0 L ( 302 cubic inch V8 ) and ( 4 quarts for the 5R55E automatic transmission ) to drain and refill the automatic transmission pan , but you actually add slowly and use the dipstick to determine the transmission fluid level from what I understand

You need to check all the exhaust pipe hangers, one of them is letting the exhaust rattle against something. Also check muffler heat shield it could also be loose. When transmission in engaged in any gear the engine is torqued to the right, so that is moving the exhaust ( it is attached to the engine so it moves with the engine )into a position to rattle, in neutral the engine is sitting evenly in its mounts so no rattle. May want to check engine and trans mounts too.

101 problems could exist but most likely it was caused by a poor transmission design. There are hundreds of complaints on file with the NHTSA about the sudden failure of this car's transmission at highway speeds. The cause is related to an issue that required a 2004 recall of several Honda models for excessive heat buildup and gear lockup. The resulting fix put in by Honda slowed the rate of failure, but did not address the underlying cause. You should have the transmission inspected by a specialist. Most shops will not charge you to inspect it if you have service done, but be prepared for a "transmission failure" diagnosis.

It depends on your vin number the Honda place should be able to tell you for like 20 bucks or so

under the car above the catalytic converter

If the light is coming on without you pushing the Sport Mode button on the gearshift lever, then you have a transmission problem. On the bright side, the fact the "S" indicator light came on indicates it is an electrical problem rather than a mechanical one. Time to visit a trusted transmission shop. Stay away from chain transmission shops. A Honda dealer or trusted independent is you best choice.