Honda Accord

I am currently working on the same issue on my 92 SC300 as I write this. What i found when I pulled the panel is this: There should be a metal rod that runs up and down with a wire attached to the back. This piece should move when the windows go down. There are three plastic pieces attached to a metal part call the regulator (two plastic pieces on the left side of regulator and one on the right). If one of those plastic pieces are broken it will cause the window to not roll up or down, even through you can still here the motor working when youpress the switch to raise the window. Because the regulator is only sold with a new motor, it will run you upwards of $300 for a new motor and regulator. My advice is to search junk yards for the regulator only. If you find more than one, please let me know (BA1720@aol.com) Thanks! Brandon Well if it has down and no up, its usually the switch. the switch usually just reverses the power to make it go up or down, no 2 motors or anything. But also Honda accords , as i see many and worked on many at my tuner shop have problemsome driverside up window issues. ask anyone with a 93-97 Accord. Most times its the motor, but yull need to check the regulator to make sure its not slightlly bent. but usually its just the motor. But the switch goes bad also. Kongkit Raggan-Supatanampon

behind the ashtray

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put your seat belt on

If it is a 1.9 Ltr engine it holds 4 qts. with filter change.

I had a similar problem, well mine (S light) flashed occasionally but the "check engine" light was on permanently a lot of geniuses gave their opinion but it was very simple. Replace the oxygen sensor and that will take care of it. Now, that light comes on when you "need" to have a more responsive kind of driving It means Sport driving and to activate or deactivate it, there's a little button on the shift lever, on an automatic car

barrs stop leak will work on most smaller holes and cracks if you can not find that you could try silver stopper also found at most part stores

If you can see the crack, you could use some fine sandpaper (when it's cool) and sand down the area to be patched, then wipe it clean, and apply some 'quicksteel' compound- found at most hardware or auto supply stores. JB weld works well, too. Ideally, since quicksteel sets fast, put this on first, wait an hour, then apply a thin coat of JB weld on top, and let it sit overnight before driving. You may even put some stop leak fluid for good measure.

sound like you cam followers (if overhead cam) or lifters are making noise. Could be low oil pressure to the head.

Muslim

The fan will run anytime the A/C or defroster is on. It may also run after you shut the engine down if the engine is running hotter than normal. I would have the cooling system serviced.

A faulty power window switch or faulty wiring. The motor works in either direction (there is only one motor per window), so it's not the motor but the wiring or the window switch. Unless the motor control is damaged, that is. Check the switch for continuity first, then check the continuity of the wiring. If you don't find the fault in either of those places, check the motor assembly. Post back here with your findings. Thank you.

Written on the driver's door post. Click the link if the placard is missing. I do not have enough information to provide an answer. Coupe, sedan, V6?

The "PGM-FI" light on an Accord dash is the same thing as a "check engine" light on any other brand of car.

PGM-FI means "programmed fuel injection." The Electronic Control Unit - the fuel injection computer - is the same no matter what engine it's on...you could pull the ECU off a Honda outboard, reflash it and install it in an Indy car. It makes the supply chain easier, if nothing else.

many things plus a combination of items. it is based on what you want. Change spark plugs, and wiring, The air filter k&n.Exhaust muffler, and piping. The exhaust manifold or buy the tornado that will fit inside the air tube.

Try a computer chip. Very inexpensive ones like RUSH or Hurricane are under and you can really feel the improvement, adjustable ones are higher. They work by tricking the ECU into thinking the car is running much cooler. Try a throttle body spacer. Try an underdrive crankshaft pulley. Try a racing cold air intake. Try to upgrade the ignition. Try headers and if they are too expense, just replace the stock muffler with a free flow muffler. Dual exhaust always work better than single exhaust. Remove the exhaust resonator and replace with straight pipe. If you go with dual exhaust have a cross over tube installed to balance the exhaust which increases bottom end torque. A throttle body spacer workers better than a Tornado. Replace the cam.

For a few years there, Honda had a problem with the ICM. It's inside the distributor.

"What is the valve clearance on 1992 Honda accord?"

I or anyone else would only be guessing. You need to take the vehicle to a professional well yes but i dont want a professional to rip me off so i wanted kind of an idea about what it might be before i go. I understand exactly how you feel. A couple of questions. Have you changed the transmission fluid or added fluid lately. You MUST use Honda ATF-Z1 fluid and no other. Use any other fluid and you will have shift problems. Now if you have not used any other fluid, you can take the vehicle and have the fluid and filter changed and see if that helps. Make sure they flush all the fluid out and not just what is in the pan. If you have used any other fluid you need to get it out of your transmission ASAP. Other than this I cannot tell you exactly why the transmission is not shifting properly. I am no transmission expert and it will take an expert to diagnose the problem. You could have a bad TCU (transmission control unit) but that is just an educated guess. To avoid being ripped off, that it to someone you trust. Ask your friends for recommendations. I can tell you where not to take it. Do not take it to any chain operation such as Mr. Transmission or such place. A trusted independent is a much safer choice. Of course your local Honda dealer would be a good choice but it will more than likely cost more but you will know is is repaired correctly and get a warranty.

there is a fuse, but 9 out of ten times it will be the motor.

4 quarts with a filiter change.

$160.00 if it includes the remote access, $65.00 without.

Type your answer here... Most likely answer is that you have a badly clogged transmission filter. When the fluid is cold it is thick and may not be able to get through the filter, starving, the pump, etc., and causing the trans. to slip, just like it was low on fluid. As the fluid warms up, it gets thinner, and is more able to get through the clogged filter, allowing the trans. to operate "normally". Hopefully a filter/fluid change will do the trick. (should be a little less than $100) Don't delay in getting this done. If you procrastinate you will have a much higher probability of needing a total rebuild/ replacement of your tranny. BIG bucks! )~: ,

Yes it does thay are not all the same length.

200 hp