Honda Accord

when it needs to be replaced

On the V6 acc. just connected under the thottle body.

When a fuel pump is going bad the engine might run rough or completely shut off. Many times the engine will start up and run find for a while. Eventually the engine will shut off and will not start.

Check the #6 fuse. If it is good then the VSS needs replacing.

The 2001 Honda Accord has a 8 ft. 10.9 in. (106.9 in.) wheel base.

The 2001 Honda Accord has 16 valves.

I fully rebuilt transmission, parts and labor will run you around $3000.

first off buy a repair manual for like $20. There's a two prong blue plug that hangs under the dash on the passengers side. Turn ur key to the on position then use a paper clip to use as a jumper to the two prong holes on that plug and watch the flashes of your check engine light. it will flash so many times then pause and flash again so many times. the amount of flashes tells u the first digit then pauses and then gives u the second digit of the engine code. so u'll have a blink with a pause then four more blinks, that means your engine code would be 14. A dealer or repair manual will tell you what that code means.

It is a 5 digit code. Use the presets to enter the code. for instance if the code is 43651 then push preset 4 then 3 etc. This is assuming you see code on the display. If you have tried many times to enter the code the radio may have locked up and will not then accept the correct code. In that case run the radio for at least 1 hour. Simply turn the key to accessory and turn the radio on and leave it for 1 hour. Do not have anything else on or you may run the battery down. You can also just disconnect the negative (-) battery cable for 2 minutes and this will clear the lock and allow you to insert the code.

All oxygen sensors are the same size. They standardized them because it takes a weird socket with a slot in the side to remove an O2 sensor, and no one wants to own seven or eight different sockets that can turn, at most, four fasteners on the whole car.

Depends on the condition of the vehicle, the miles on it, if it is a DX, LX, or EX, and 4 cylinder or V6. You will take a real beating on the price of a vehicle that has a blown head gasket. You will have to drop the price at least $2,000 below what it would sell for if it was in good shape. The price you get will depend on how nice the car is. If for instance it is an LX 4 cylinder with 150,000 miles in excellent condition it would be worth around $4,200 retail and around $2,500 wholesale. You could expect to get around $3,500 in a private sale. But with the blown head gasket you would be lucky to get $1,000. Ask yourself who wants to buy a car with an engine that may have been severely damage by the blown gasket and someone who just kept driving it? It may need a complete engine overhaul so any prospective buyer will factor that in.

On the V6 the belt and water pump must be replaced every 105,000 miles. The 4 cylinder has a chain that requires no maintenance.

Before starting on setting up the timing marks, the crankshaft and camshaft must be positioned on the number one cylinder. This is an interference engine, so rotation of the crank and cam are limited. Making the assumption that you are not on the number one cylinder then some addition work will need to be done. Remove the rocker arm assemble. This will allow all valves to be closed all the time. Rotate the crankshaft to top dead center (White mark on the flywheel). Rotate the cam shaft so that the rib of the timing belt pulley with the word up, which is stamped on the Pulley is vertical. That is the word up is on the highest point in the rotation of the cam shaft. Reinstall the rocker arm assemble. The camshaft pulley has two marks stamped in the teeth 90 degrees right and left of the word "Up". Align these marks with the top of the head. Check that the crankshaft is still on the white mark. Loosen the nut for the idler pulleys. You can now move the idler pulley up and down. There is a slot on the bracket of the idler pulley for the cam timing belt where a setup bold can be installed. Install this bolt but do not tighten it yet. Press down on the idler against the spring tension and tighten the setup bolt. This will keep you from fighting the spring when you are putting the timing belt on. Install the timing belt, remove the setup bolt, tighten the nut for the idler pulleys and rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise two turns until the word up on the camshaft pulley is at the top and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Do not turn the crank clockwise at all. If you miss the TDC go around counter clockwise another two turns. Turning the engine allows the belt to track. Loosen the idler nut and retighten it. This allows belt tension to set after the belt has found it tracking point. Recheck that the cam marks are aligning with the head and that the crank is at top dead center. The second belt drives the counter balance shafts. To set this belt up, make sure that the crank is TDC on number one (word up at the top). The front pulley has a mark stamped in the teeth and is set to a raised mark on the front of the engine casting. There is a bolt on the back of the engine about three inches from the back pulley. This bolt is a plug for a setup hole. Remove the bolt. Use a quarter inch drill bit and insert it in the hole. Turn the back pulley while feeling for a hole in the counter shaft with the drill bit. It feels a little strange but you'll know when you hit the hole. Once the drill bit is in the hole of the shaft, just center the bit in the setup hole. Loosen the idler nut and install the belt. Tighten the idler nut and go through the drill of rotating the engine two turn. Loosen the idler nut and retighten. Recheck that all mark lineup at TDC.

the gear is located on the speed sensor, but the speedo is electronic so you can program it instead...

the lights come on to let you know that your car is locked

The hookup is usually under the dashbord close to the steering column. If it is not in plain view, it will be under a removable panel approximately 4 or 5 inches by 6 or 8 inches,

I have had 3 Honda's. The 77 and 88 changed every 50,000 miles. Have an 02 now and believe (look in the booklet with the car on time intervals) it is 100,000 miles now. Irregardless, when you change the belt, seriously consider changing the water pump too. You take off the side of the engine where the belts are and that is a lot of labor, the good news it when you replace the belt, the water pump now is setting there behind the belt easy to replace and are not that expensive. Better safe than sorry.

Fortunently Honda's (old ones anyway) have clearence for valves if the belt breaks. I learned that with my 1st Honda. Others, some Toyotas and other types, have an engine that if the valves quit going because of a belt break, they get hit by pistons and bend, causing lots more damage in the motor. Have to take the head off and go through it.

I had my vehicles set to replace the belt every 50,000 miles along with a water pump. Check your booklet and see what the interval is recommended for changing the timing belt. I did it then so I did not break a worn belt and the car stop running at night, far way, and not knowing anyone in the area to fix it.

You can only get that info from the dealer. the only way to get that is to get the code off the side of the radio or sometimes they are in the glove box it should be a four number code

Drain radiator RE-fill slowly to prevent and "air lock" Run vehicle to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level

Defective passenger power window switch. It is stuck in the down position. Raise the window and immediately disconnect the switch until you can replace it.

Defective passenger power window switch. It is stuck in the down position. Raise the window and immediately disconnect the switch until you can replace it.

Probably because either the fuse or circuit breaker or the temperature sensing switches have failed.

first gear shift cylinoide, commonly go bad, or get clogged, there are 2 small cylinoide on the right hand side, on the area of the transmission facing the firewall, 1 cylinoide has a white connector, the other cylinoide has a brown connector, one screw holds it in place. all you have to do is remove the cylinoide, clean, and lubricate the o-rings, and re install. that should take care of your issue, unless your transmission clutch packs are worn out.

On throttle body. It lets in extra air at idle when engine cold and throttle blade is closed.

USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING IN THIS AREA AS THE SENSORS FOR THE AIR BAG SAFETY RESTRAINT SYSTEM COULD BE CLOSE BY AND/OR EXPOSED! Remove the screws from the plastic dash panel surrounding the radio which will expose the screws holding the radio in place. Remove the radio screws and slide the radio out. Installation is in reverse order.