Honda Civic DX

WHEN: All the time, especially after the vehicle has been sitting after a long drive.

THE CULPRIT: Yes, it really is brimstone, or, as it is usually called today, sulfur. This means gear lube is leaking from the manual transmission, transfer case or differential housing. Sulfur compounds in this oil serve as extreme-pressure lubricants for the gears, and can get pretty funky after a few years in service. Look for sulfury-smelling dribbles of viscous, oily stuff under the car. Unfortunately, leaks here typically mean a trip to the shop

The answer to changing the alternator does not have to include all the time consuming work of detaching the drive train at all! Begin by jacking the car up on the drivers' side and secure it from being able to fall. Remove the drivers' side tire. Next,remove the plastic shroud around the crankcase. This is very easy. Just take a screwdriver and pop out the plastic bolts used to attach it to the frame. Remove hot post on battery and then remove wires from the back of the alternator. Remove the bottom bolt and screw from the mounting bracket by working through the wheelwell. Remove the top two bolts including the adjustment arm. The alternatior is now free to move around.Push it up out of the way. You now need to remove the mounting bracket with a 14mm socket. It has two bolts holding it on. Pull the shroud out of the way and drop the alternator down throught this opening. This is a very time saving method of removing and replacing an alternator on the civic. I replaced mine on a 1989 CRX. Approximately an hour from start to finish by using this medthod.

NOTE: ALWAYS MAKE SURE VEHICLE CANNOT FALL OFF JACK! I secured an 8 inch concrete block vertically under the front bumper to make sure the car couldn't fall on me whiile I was under it.

This isn't that tricky of an install. I've done it 3 times now.

First, take off your drivers side wheel.

Second, find the right size socket for the CV axle nut. I can't remember what size it was, but it was huge. Take your car to Napa and ask them to help you find the right one, that's what I did. Take off that nut with the socket and wrench, set aside.

Third, Take off the bottom nut holding the brake assembly to the arm holding it. I think it is a 17mm socket. There is a codder pin in this nut, so if it does not, its the wrong nut. After you take the nut off, pull the brake assembly up so it swings free.

Fouth, pull our the left CV Axle. This is the only way to fit the Alt. out from under the car.

Fifth, unbolt your alternator and the serpetine belt on it. If your belt is in good condition, don't buy another one. They are hardy things.

After getting your new alt in there, tighten it all up and repeat all these steps backwards to get it all back together. Make sure the serpentine belt is nice and tight on the crankshaft, you don't want much play in there, or you will lose power.

Fairly straight forward. Nothing mind blowing about it. If your having problems with dimming lights when pushing in your clutch, it might not be the alternator. Check all your other wiring (and your battery, the alt. itself, and grounds) before you change out and install the new one. It will save you tons of time, money and hassle.

Maybe a bit late with this but I have to chime in. After hearing a number of folks say you have to remove front axle to get alternator out, I couldn't believe the car could be designed so poorly. Today I swapped one out of a 91 into an 89...the trick is to jack frame remove wheel, remove plasic shroud, take of 14mm nut on alt bolt, drive out pin push alternator up somewhere to rest and the take 2 14mm bolts out to remove bracket. Now the alternator can be wiggled out past the obstructions.

Brake drums can be hard to remove. First, make sure you have your brake shoes adjusted all the way in. If you have a pneumatic hammer, use it between the studs until it loosens, then pull and tap on the side of the drum to get it the rest of the way. If you don't have one, use a big hammer and whack it between the studs, being very careful to not hit the studs.

With all drums make sure the shoes are backed off. A hammer may need to be used to tap the drum free if heavy rust is preventing ease of removal.

• NOTE: On some drums, there may be retaining screws to remove before you can pull it.

>> 2500 - 3500 Series: If you have a full-floating rear axle (such as on a GM 14-bolt rear) You will need to pull the axle shafts, remove a retaining clip (some use metal tabs you bend out of the way), and lockring keeper. To remove the lockring you should use a special 6-pronged socket to remove the lockring (you'll need one to properly torque it during reassembly). Carefully pull the drum off. Reassembly will require a new bearing seal,and hub gasket, and gear oil.

Torque numbers can be found in automotive repair manuals found in your local autoparts store.

If it is the 1.6L 4cyl that is on the 1998 civic cx then this is what I did.

1. jack up car and support it with jack stands, lower the jack so that the car rest on the stands

2. take off the top pulley that the power steering belt goes around, so you have a clear view of the pulleys, right next to the motor you will see a small pulley-idler tension pulley,i think that is what it is called, loosen the screw in the center of the pulley, next screw down on the screw next to the motor so that the pulley goes down,

3. now jack up the motor so that the weight is just off of the motor mount and unscrew the motor mount, lower the jack just enough to make clearance for the top of the belt and slide it over the motor mount,

4. put the screws back into the motor mount and tighten,

5. put the belt over the pulleys and screw the pulley back up to tighten the belt then tighten the screw in the middle of that pulley back.

6. now put the power steering pump back on and put the belt back on and retighten the power steering pump using a half inch rachet or pull bar to tighten the belt.