ine was $89.99 at schuck's auto parts.. call around

parts at napa cost 4 sensors 2 @65 2 @53

blowby caused either by worn or broken piston rings and or valves May want to check for missing dipstick, oil filler cap etc.

it's easy to do...too much to write on here...i'm going to refer you to www.installdoctor.com you will find it easy to find on here! :)

See this website, below in the related links and sources, for more information and help.

IF its doing this only when it warms up, it might be a bad coil - is it getting gas?

You might want to double check, but GM was using "Header-Like" exhaust manifolds from the factory. If that's the case, you won't get much improvement by putting on headers.

if I were you I'll check the transmission fluid level, happen to me not to long ago, I have Plymouth grand voyager, run ruff, then could'n go forward or backward, had no or very little transmission fluid. If your transmission fluid is ok, maybe it due to be change, light or dark brown fluid, change it.

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IGNORE THE ABOVE - IT HAS NO BEARING ON THIS PROBLEM ON FORD VEHICLES!

Ford has a Technical Service Bulletin on this specific problem. It involves reprogramming the PCM with an update to include a "sludge compensation stategy for the throttle body". It must be done by a dealer, and shouldn't cost more than $30 - $50.

A temporary fix might be to remove the air intake and filter ducts and use carb cleaner inside the throttle body, and a good quality electronics cleaner on the Mass Air Flow sensor.

!!!DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER ON THE MAF SENSOR!!!

The electronics cleaner you use on the MAF sensor must be of the type that leaves no residue behind. A good one, if you can find it, is LPS Industries "CRC Free". There are others.

No guarantees on how well, or how long, this might work, but it's worth a try.

the cheapest and most effective option is to add a cold air intake.

generally in the range of 100-300 dollars, although you can find them cheaper on eBay or craigslist.

hands down, the most cost effective and performance enhancing modification you can make to a stock civic.

some intakes will give you as much as a 18whp boost.

see PASSWORD JDM: Whale Penis Intake.

The 2001 Honda Civic has a 5-speed manual.

It is located on the firewall side of the engine. This is not a step by step, but more of a rough guide. Remove the positive off of the battery. Jack up the driver side front of the car and secure it on jackstands. Remove driver side front tire. Reaching down from the top, remove the bolt (10mm) holding the power wire on the top of the alternator, and the plug from the back of the alternator. The alternator has 2 bolts holding it on, and both need to be removed. The bottom one is a 14mm and the top one is a 12mm. Remove these bolts, and remove the belt. Removing the alternator out of the engine bay is kinda tricky, just rotate it around and drop it out of the bottom of the car. Installation is reverse of this. To tighten the belt, take a pry bar or long screwdriver and put it down in the alternator and pull towards the front of the car, then tighten the bolts. That should be all of it. Just remember to tighten all the bolts.

3.

Alternator

Air conditioning pump

Power steering pump

I had a '99 and my cousin has an '03 Galant.I first removed the trim around the radio and the a/c controls which pops right off.Second, I removed the four screws that hold the a/c controls, which gives you enough clearance to be able to push the a/c controls low enough to remove the radio.Next all you have to do is raise the radio a little and pull it out from the front brackets holding it in place.That should be it and I had to use the side metal brackets attached to the factory radio in order to attach the new radio.

In the intake manifold plenium, its a 2 wire sensor

Sounds like your heater hose going to the heater core is stopped up some where along the way, Or your thermostat is broken. Otherwise if there is hot water getting to the core then it WILL blow warm air.

The 2006 Honda Civic is 14 ft. 6.8 in. (174.8 in.) long.

in most cases they will be 5 1/4 inch speakers you can fine them at most wal marts for replace ment if you do not already have some new ones to go in

92 - 95 civic hatchback (JDM)

The EG6 is the right hand drive Japanese model off the USDM 92 - 95 dx, si etc.

Any type of delicate mechanical jobs of that nature are recommended to be done by a professional to avoid making costly mistakes and for safety precautions.

"You should be able to reach under the hood and pull the cable with a set of vice grips"

The question needs clarification: What car manufacturer and what year of make? Standard or remote cable latch? 92 Plymouth voyager - It can be done by removing the plastic housing underneath the windshield wipers and then removing the hood from the top.

Should check out your local parts store for a guide on the entire car

There are two screws located behind the temperature knob and the vent knob located below the stereo. To get to these screws you have to pull out on these two knobs and then remove the screws with a Phillips screw driver. Once they are removed the grey trim around the stereo and ac/ heater unit should come right off. remove the trim and locate the screws on each side of the stereo. Remove these screws and slide the stereo out of its compartment, being careful not to damage the wiring harnesses and the antenna cable. Remove the wiring harness by pressing in on the quick release tabs on the sides of the plastic connector and gently wiggle the connector from side to side while pulling out away from the stereo. Then if not already disconnected, pull the antenna wire out of the slot. Your stereo should be completely disconnected and you will have to buya wiring harness adapter for the '03 Lancer to properly install an aftermarket stereo. You can usually find these adapters at any car audio store or electronics store. You are now ready to install your new stereo.

http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/how-tos-tutorials/90246-honda-fast-idle-valve-fiv-pulsing-idle-fix.html



Go to this link

yes if it is a 2001 civic lx

remove the old one by loosening the screw clamps and sliding them down the hose, then pull on the hose with a twisting motion. Do NOT yank side to side as you can damage the radiator this way. If it is stuck *carefully* cut a slit in the hose (not too deep you don't want to damage the outlet, the radiator is only plastic there) from the end about 1-1.5" in and peel the hose off the outlet.

Compare the new hose to the old one to make sure it is correct, then slide the new clamps on each end, putting them at least 3-4"down the hose to keep them out of the way. Guide the new hose in place, then slide it onto the outlets at least as far as the old one was. slid the clamps to about 1/2" from the ends of the hose and tighten them until they are snug.

Once you've refilled the system and started the engine, watch for leaks and tighten the hose clamps as needed.