Honda Element

My 2003 is 7 years old, has 135,000 miles and is still going with standard maintenance.

throwout bearing

under the hood, half way back on the very right. its a rectangle black box, with for clips holding them in place. pull inward on the four clips on the sides, and pull up on the box to open.

5 and 1/3 quarts (5w20) with new oil filter. the oil filter is cramped in there, may need a small oil filter remover

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/Honda/Element/

If you are talking engine oil...SAE 5w20-5w30

you have a stuck valve

That's the tire pressure warning. If you look closely, you'll see that it's really a cross section of a tire, complete with tread at the bottom. Factory tires should have 32psi front and 35psi rear and then the warning will go out after an hour or so. If it doesn't, deflate the tires one by one to about 10psi and then reinflate again to reset the sensors. If you live in a higher elevation, you might need to add a psi or two to make it stop.

It makes it unnecessary for a thief to have a copy of your electronic key. A thief can write down your VIN and then get your brake code from a Honda dealer. After entering the brake code your car will no longer need an electronic key in order to start. The thief can then use a screwdriver and hammer to turn your ignition on, and drive away. A private individual might have trouble coaxing a brake code out of a dealership, but I'm guessing that an autotheft ring could afford to generously bribe an employee in a dealer's service department enough to keep him "on staff" for delivery of the codes. All it would take iis for that employee to spend a few seconds to look up the VIN in the Honda database. IMO what it all means is that if you're serious about protecting the car then you can't rely entirely on the security of the electronic key system. Doing something like spending a very few bucks to install a well-hidden manual kill switch might be a good backup.

it could be your crank posistion senson or alternator failing get a dia and a load test on alternator

Here is a thread of people who had the same problem. This may work for some of you but I'm opting to change the bulbs themselves to elimate it from happening again in a while. http://www.elementownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22376&highlight=change+bulb

No, but you will damage the warranty and good luck if you get in an accident. It will probably have a negative effect on the airbag.

Why don't you just adjust the angle of the steering wheel. There is a nifty little lever under the wheel that lets you do this.

It is so easy. Just follow this procedure

Turn the ignition to the ON position -Press the selector button so that the warning is showing -Press and Hold the selector for 10 seconds, the display will flash. Once flashing let go of the button -Press and hold the selector button for 5 seconds, the display will reset.

I just tried the same procedure on my 2007 Honda Accord and it worked.

we had the same problem with a 2005 element & a 1999 cr-v. in both cases the exhust vales were tight & out of spec. by adjusting all the valve, the stalling problem was solved. your honda may have the same problem. good luck. masoud @ euro imports, louisville,ky.

Check door pin switches

If only it were that simple! The plug istelf can be found in the spare tire well, toward the bumber. There should be a plug inserted into the connector to keep things clean. The problem I have found lies with the converter that is supposed to plug in under the dash. None of the kits I've bought (three now) fir the connectors available under the dash. It appears that the 05 Element is the only one that uses it's own particular kit, though most companies will tell you otherwise. The 03/04 kits won't work and neither will the ones saying 05 through 08. To date, I still have not found the entire answer - I've found answers, but they're all over the map and none have been entirely correct. I'm beginning to think I should have just taken it to the dealer and paid the $129 for the part and whatever expensive labor they decided to charge. Best of Luck!

Refer to your owner's manual for photos of the procedure. The 2007 Manual for example can be viewed here: https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/E10707/E10707OM.pdf (4.99 megs) and the instructions are on page 89. The text-only instructions are as follows:

Both seats can be removed to give more cargo capacity.

To remove a seat: Pull the release strap on the seat support to unlock the seat support. Remove the cover between the seat cushion and the side wall by pulling the tab and pulling the cover straight up. Push the lock lever forward to unlock the seat.

Reverse this procedure to reinstall the seat. Make sure the seat is securely locked.

Always remove an unsecured seat from the vehicle before driving. A seat that is not locked in place could be thrown about and cause injury in a sudden stop or crash.

Hold the steel handle next to the lock lever and the handle strap at the outside edge of the seat cushion, and remove the entire seat by pulling it up and backward.

Remove your front and rear brake calipers, clean all external components and make certain the caliper pins are free, cleaned and greased. Calipers have to float on the pins to stop the brake pads from dragging causing excessive fuel consumption and a grinding noise heard especially from the rear brakes (Element and Many Vans). The brakes will wear out quite quickly if the calipers are seized on the pins and power loss will be really noticeable. The excess heat generated will cause the caliper piston seals to fail resulting in brake fluid loss and also the heat will eventually destroy the wheel bearings. Realistically this work should be done annually especially in areas with long winters with extreme road salt usage.

The above applies to most vehicles with disc brakes. The power loss is more noticeable with vehicles with smaller 4 cyl. lower HP engines. GM/ Ford /Dodge

Pickups are notorious for calipers seizing.

Dave T.

Follow the instructions on how to install the trailer hitch from H and A. Here is the link http://www.handa-accessories.com/element/elementhitch.pdf

if i not mistaken 4 quarts and a 1/2 but just to make sure refer to your dip stick.

in the glovebox silly

element has a k24 meaning its a engine with a chain, no interval service needed, how ever chains wear from inside out causing some people to think chain has stretched usually due to very high mileage or poor upkeep on changing oil.

It must be reset by a Honda Dealer. The light is on because there is a problem with the system. I am sure you do not want the airbag to not function as it should or prematurely deploy.

I have a 2003 Honda element that shifts hard between 1st and 2nd gear. I tuned it up for a miss fire mode it didn't change anything. I changed the transmission fluid not knowing if someone had put the wrong fluid in it. the car only has 105k miles on it and I bought it with hope of getting a good car cheap. after tons of research I found two people that had replaced the throttle body. DONT CHANGE THE THROTTLE BODY yes it will most likely fix the problem but if you are mechanically incline you can go to ebay and get the throttle position sensor for about 17.00. it is adjustable so make sure that you adjust it with the correct idle. you will have to remove the throttle body to replace it due to the bolts that holds on the factory TPS does not have a head o0n them. you can either cut the TPS from the throttle body with side cuts so you can get to the bolts they will un screw just take vise grips remove them and go to autozone or a hardware store and get M5 .8mm bolts save an original bolt to match up the correct length. its not that bad and can save you tons of money.

The starter solenoid on a Honda Element is integral to the starter. It cannot be replaced without replacing the starter as well.