Isuzu Trucks

The valve tappet clearance for the MB-100 Istana, which is a model from Ssangyong, typically ranges from 0.15 mm to 0.20 mm (0.006 to 0.008 inches) for both intake and exhaust valves. However, it's essential to consult the specific service manual for your vehicle or check with a qualified mechanic for precise specifications, as the clearance can vary based on engine condition and adjustments. Regular maintenance checks are recommended to ensure optimal engine performance.

It's 1-3-4-2 firing order, On the distributor it's 1I, 2E, 3I, 1E, 4I, 3E, 2I, 4E i

1-2-4-2

When its a left handed thread you would turn it counter clock wise which is right to loosen and left to tighten it.

My 16' box truck with a gas engine gets about 9 mpg

Answer

U joints can last one heck of a long time unless you abuse them. Spinning your tires on dry pavement will certainly help to destroy them or spinning your tires on ice then hitting dry pavement will almost certainly end their life cycle. If you want your U joints to last as long or longer than the manufacturer says on the box that they come in, treat them with kindness, don't spin your tires unless you have no choice and you should get a couple of years out of them.

Look on the passenger door it gives towable weight

22 mm

12

Valve clearance is 0, the engine uses hydraulic lifters. I believe the setting is 0 lash + 1.5 turns, but don't quote me.

Tandem axle dump truck. In some states, you may be able to put up to 15 tons on a single axle with an additional lifting tag axle.

In the usa and Japan or if am not mistaking they have another assembly plant somewhere else. Suvs are based on the gmc envoy

The towing capacity of a 1994 Isuzu 2.6 pickup is about 2,500 pounds. This weight depends on the total curb weight of the vehicle. The vehicle is designed to tow about 3/4 of its curb weight. To find the specific weight of this vehicle, open the driver's door and note the sticker on the door frame.

There is a complete listing of the lights, icons, colors, and meanings on the Reed's website. See the related link to be taken to it.

You've picked an elaborate repair, way more elaborate than it should be. Make sure the core is definitely the problem - you won't want to do this if you don't have to. Remove: steering wheel, all plastic steering column trim, instrument cluster and housing ( speedometer cable is snapped to the back, no tool required just small hands). Remove lower dash panels, some misc heater ducting under the dash, radio, radio mounting bracket, and the dashboard support bracket behind it. Disconnect 2 control cables running to the white plastic heater box (now visible) and 1 running to the air source under the right hand dash. Disconnect cigarette lighter wiring. Disconnect fuse box from dash assembly (drivers side bottom). Remove dashboard - it's held at five more places: the bottom two corners, under two vents at the top dashboard corners (they pull out) and under a plastic cover center top of dash (must be pried out - try not to damage the plastic). Drain engine coolant. Disconnect the two heater hoses from the heater core pipes where they protrude into the engine compartment through the firewall. Best to replace these hoses now, while they're accessible. They're cheap. You can now disconnect the plastic heater box assembly from the firewall and remove it from the vehicle. Remove all of the brass screws holding the box halves together and it will come apart easily. The heater core nests inside, held snug in the box by foam seals. These will often be hardened or disintegrating and if so should be replaced; otherwise air leakage around the core will cause poor heating in winter and heating of the cab in summer. Note: unlike most other cars this Isuzu has no valve in the coolant hose. In this terrible design the heater core is constantly hot and there's no easy way to shut off the fluid flow if the core develops a leak. Many owners will be forced into an immediate and unreasonably expensive dealer repair, which is the whole idea behind this. Assembly is the reverse. Good luck. The only reason you would be reading this post is if you are faced with the task of replacing the heater core. I'll skip the usual points of disconnecting battery, draining as much coolant as possible - I checked the Hayes Manual - their solution was the usual quick sweet way which never seems to work and I did consider the above task as well. Looking for an easier way out this is how I re and re'd the heater core on my 1992 Isuzu P/U Extended Cab without airconditioning. I hope it saves you some stress. The task is not easy, about 4 hrs inside the cab. So we begin: Remove the glove box (easy), remove the lower trim under the glove box (easy), remove trim panel over the radio (easiest), remove the ashtray and ashtray housing (easy), remove the front metal housing the radio slides into (a little struggle), here's the key to removing the heater box through the right side which makes life a whole lot simplier, remove the metal dash support directly behind the metal housing you just removed (it is what prevents the heater box from being pulled out to the right), there are two 10 mm nuts into the floor and two on the top of the bracket (medium) - once you have it out cut off about 1/2 in from the top metal tab (makes it putting it back in easier. Now back to the heater box itself - unplug the power on the heater box, squeeze the accordian box together and pull it out (easy). Unsnap the heater control cables and undo the heater box from the firewall (four 10 mm nuts hold it on). (easy) From the drivers side, slide the bottom black plenium out. At this point there should be nothing from preventing the white heater box from coming out the right side with a little wiggling. Once you have the white heater box removed from the vehicle there are about 15 screws holding it together (you have to take them all out) easy. Replace the core (your new one may require a little foam or something to support it on the sides) I used door draft foam on a roll. The new one will not be an exact match to the old one. The heater box will be in three pieces - screw the whole affair back together, making sure everything lines up and operates nicely. OK - With a little wiggling you will be able to slid the heater box back in - (this is not easy) carefull with the copper pipes, a little easier if you have a buddy on the drivers side guiding it in place. (Hard) Replace the four nuts onto the firewall - this gets the box out of the way for the second most difficult part - putting the metal dash support back in (the one you trimed the 1/2 in from the top tab. Secure the two bottom 10 mm nuts and at least one at the top (small hands help) medium. Replace the front metal bracket (the one the radio goes into ( medium) - Connect the heater controls and snap in the cables. Replace the accordian ducting, plug the electrical connector (easy), replace the trim piece under the glove box (there will an air duct attached to it) (easy) put the glove box, ashtray and radio back in and then the radio cover (easier). Do the engine side hook ups, replace new coolant, connect the battery and hey you saved yourself about $500.00. The secret of whole job is the dash support brack must come out. Good luck, just had to share my morings activities while still fresh in my mind....Cam

http://www.combitech.com.tw/combitech/fta_4jg2.htm

Any commercial Isuzu dealership will provide labor times for free.

Well a FRR is going to have the 6hk diesel engine in it so the "fuel pump" is called an injection pump with common rail fuel system. If you lift the cab it's gonna be bolted to the drivers side of engine. It will have 2 connectors going to it. You can't miss it!! The injection pump has 2 pumps all in one unit. The low side pump is a georoter style and pulls fuel from the tank and into the pump. Once the fuel passes threw the low side pump it is introduced to the high pressure side of the injection pump where it is then pressurized anywhere from 500-18,000psi depending on TPS, speed, load, etc. Think that's high psi?? The 2012 modern medium duty diesels are running Rail pressure as high as 35,000 psi!! Seen it on the scan tool with my own eyes!! Its amazing! Anyways after its pressurized to high pressure it then travels to the common rail where it waits and when the time is right and the injector opens the fuel then travels threw the line and into the injector and then into the cyl to ignite the hot air that the piston just compressed. Good luck. Hope this helped.

Hi,iv'e got a 4hf1 Isuzu. What will the correct compression reading be if i do a test on the engin?

18000 lbs gcwr

I m pretty sure on the 89 model it would be located on the frame rail near the gas tank under the truck...GOOD LUCK

no air pump that I know of, sorry.

Do the following to remove the brake drum on 1995 Isuzu Pickup.

- Remove wheel from the brake drum- Remove the Philips screw that holds the brake drum to the axle plate.

The brake drum is now free to be removed but is usually stuck to the lug bolts.- spray penetrating oil on the lug nuts (be sure to put card board below wheel to catch the oil that will run off.- Use a plastic hammer and hammer the drum off the axle plate.

- An alternate way is to place a 2 x 4 across the top of the lug nuts and use two c-clamps to pry the drum off the lug nuts.

6 qts