Jeep Cherokee

start by removing the mesh over the speaker carefuly so not to damage it, use a flat headed screw driver and gently pry it off. then remove the screws holding in the speaker. your good to go then.

The part time transfer case in a 2004 Grand Cherokee was a NP242. To swap from a NP247 to a NP242 you may also need to change drive shafts and axle yokes.

Your owner's manual should have a layout for you to follow for the fuse location. Another thing to consider with backup lights is the neutral safety switch. My backup lights in my 96 classic started acting funny then stopped working, it ended up being the neutral safety switch.

Number 7 and 23 operate the lights, check them both, back up lights are not labeled.

It is on the same circuit as the brake lights, but if they are not working, and the bulbs are good your switch needs cleaning or adjustment.

Attempt this first since the switch costs nearly $300 bucks.

On the passengers side of the trans there is a fan shaped switch, loosen the 12mm bolt ( smaller of the two, and rotate the switch while a friend checks the lights. this problem is usually accompanied by an occasional inability to start the vehicle, but can be cured by jiggling the shifter.

While adjusting the switch make sure that the vehicle will start in park as well, remember to block the wheels while testing the back up lights, engine off, key in run but not start, shifter in reverse, move switch until lights come on.

Once you find this spot, hold it in place and have your helper check to make sure it will start. This may take several tries to get both working correctly.

If you have no luck the switch may be dirty, this happens a lot. Hold the post to the bottom large bolt still while you loosen the nut, then remove it, then remove the 12mm adjusting bolt on top, remove the wire connector and pull the switch away, remove the bolts on the switch and separate the halves, use electrical contact cleaner and maybe some q-tips to clean all the copper connections completely and reassemble, refit to the trans and readjust so all functions work, this switch controls back up and start safety.

Caution! always hold that bottom bolt while tightening the large nut, this is connected to the gear adjuster and you could damage the internals if it isn't secured while you do it.

This is not a job to be done by a backyard mechanic. The pressures are irrelevant as you will have to take this to a shop to be done anyway.

Not sure why anyone would say you need to take it to a shop just for a recharge. Since around 1995 when manufacturers started using R-134 "freon" instead of the old R-12, charging a system has gotten a lot easier. The fittings are different for the low side (suction) and the high side (pressure), so you can't connect to the wrong port.

You can get cans of R-134 from Wal-Mart for under $9.00 (12 oz.), and even get the lows side hose kit (usually blue in color to indicate low/suction/cold. But for about $17.00 at Autozone, they have a low side kit that has the "puncture" fitting to connect to the can, a hose that connects to the suction port on the car, and a built-in suction gauge marked for the desired suction pressure.

Basically, open up the puncture valve so it is back from where the can connects, connect it to the can, connect the other end to the car's suction port (only fits the correct port), then start the car. Run the A/C full on, windows down, max cool. Now, close the puncture valve so it pierces the top of the can, then as you open it up, R-134 will be sucked into the A/C system. You can probably point the can downward while it is filling, and you can always feel the hose-end of the can getting colder as freon enters the system.

Once the can feels real light, and the end doesn't feel cool anymore, you're probably done, Usually, if you had been feeling a small amount of cooling before, one can will be enough to fox things. Close the valve, tun the engine off, then disconnect the hose from the car. Replace the protective cap that was on thew valve in the first place - this protects the valve from dirt, but more importantly, it makes sure the freon doesn't leak out the service port. There should be a cap on the pressure point as well. If either cap is missing, get a replacement from an automotive parts store.

Don't let anyone tell you that you "have" to take it to a shop. As long as the "parts" are working OK, a recharge is pretty easy.

...................... Above is correct, and do not get discouraged if everything does not work perfectly (cold air) at first. Mine took a couple of days to re-lubricate the compressor and function correctly. The cost was $21.oo, and patience, instead of 350.oo at a shop.

[bjranson] Agreed. I just did it with a R134 can/pressure gauge kit from Walmart - $24. Very straightforward, and this is the first time I've ever done such a thing. The guy who said take it to a mechanic is probably a mechanic himself and doesn't want to lose business and hundreds of $ to DIYers. Either that or he's just scaremongering.

If it's the same as a 1999 Cherokee.......... It's under the dashboard to the left down of the steering wheel. There are about 4-6 screws that hold a small panel a 10 - 12 inches square or so. Hard to see down there. If you can get the panel off go to a auto parts place and the will.... Hopefully take it out and replace it for you. That is if it's the same as a 1999 Jeep Cherokee. Hope this helps some.

The fan relay is actually behind the passenger side headlight, in front of the fuse box. You need to remove the headlight in order to get to the relay. This just happened to my 99 jeep grand Cherokee yesturday lol.

If you have a regular jeep radio system in it,you can simpley use a pen to push the hour and minute buttons. These are located right under the slot for the CD or right above the eject button.

My son's went out, and here's how he did it. You'll have to remove the dashboard panels (look for the exposed screws). When you get to the headlight switch, reach to the right side of the switch itself (behind the dash); there's a release button there. Press it as you pull the plunger completely out. The hole where the plunger went in has large Phillips head slots; put a screwdriver in it and turn left and completely remove. The switch is now loose; disconnect it on the left from the wiring harness plug.

Typical H4 conversion is very simple. Pull the screws around the headlight bevel and remove it. Pull the screws on the headlight pull it out, disconect the the actual light. replace with the H4 housing and light in the oposite order.

On an automatic 1997 Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6 cyl 4.0L the neutral switch is combined with the Park and reverse switch. To repair the switch, unplug the harness from the top of the engine near the transmission dip stick. The switch is located on the passenger side of the transmission, right on the side. There is a bolt and a nut which must be removed, the bolt is for adjustment of the switch position and is near the top. The larger nut (Collet type) is near the bottom and is centered over an oval shaped shaft protruding from the transmission... BE WARNED!!!! these switches are VERY EXPENSIVE (~$160)!!!! so tread carefully and try not to break it. Mine was seized to the shaft and broke into about 8 pieces, luckily I have the know how to be able to repair them. You can free up the switch from the shaft with penetrating oil and pry against the loosened nut with a screwdriver while taping lightly on the shaft to back the switch off of the shaft. Inside the switch there is a problem where the grease gells over time and the wiper contacts stick away from the base contacts therefore they do not always make connection. Once you get the switch off in one piece, it is easily serviced by removing the screws on the back and slowly opening the case. Some of my screws were frozen and I had to break them off and drill out the holes, you may be lucky and get the screws out without this problem. When you have the switch apart I suggest you use a clean surface and put some cardboard down to catch any parts that fall out. Once open, you will see 2 copper wipe plates on the wiper arm, slowly remove them and under them you will see a spring for each side. Clean all the surfaces with brake cleaner or WD-40, you can burnish the contacts with a very fine 340 grit sandpaper. Once done reassemble putting a VERY thin layer of grease on the contacts to help prevent corrosion and allow the contacts to slide easier. Once you have put the module/switch back on make sure that the adjuster bolt is set in the right place... Put it on and make sure the reverse lights come on and it cranks in park. Tighten the adjuster bolt and put the nut back on and double check. NOTE: make sure you plug the harness back in or nothing will work lol. I want to add that the hardest part is getting the switch off. When you remove the Collet nut be sure to release it first by prying back the tabs on the retaining nut. (Note: when reinstalling, this nut is to be re-tightened to ONLY 5 INCH pounds!) After removal of the Collet nut, spray some parts buster or WD-40 onto the shaft area and let it sit. Put the Collet nut back on but not all the way tight and use a screw driver to pry the unit forward from the shaft SLOWLY!. Don't get carried away when it starts moving. When reinstalling put some never seize on the tranny output shaft in case you have to do this in the future.

you have to remove the interior panel. You did not state what year your Jeep is.Very carefully pop the panel out a little bit, you should have 2 screws in the bottom corners.The panel must be raised UP a bit to pull out. Take your time and damage will be minimal.good luck, Mike

Hey Tony==The crank sensor is on the rear of some jeeps attached to the bell housing. It in itself won't cause overheating. If you have electric fans, make sure they are operating properly. Make sure the radiator is flowing coolant and not have a bunch of build up. Good luck Joe

I tried trouble shooting my 1993 dodge dynasty when the fuel pump went intermittent. We looked for the accident fuel shut off relay everywhere thinking it was an active thing rather than a passive relay near the air filter.

As I remember it, the computer (in mine) shuts of the relay or rather doesn't turn it on and let it run--no power to the relay. I had a schematic of the Internet that showed two relays were involved--

That's all I can remember now--it's been months and "experts" gave me all sort of stupid and wrong information--trying to trouble shoot the pump in the tank--sensor wires and what not they were easy to see under the car.

They had cross-over pumps on some Internet site for about $50

I know where the two fuse boxes are, but no where in the owners manual does it give information as to which fuse is the one that controls the windshield washer pump. Does anyone know by number, what fuse # controls the windshield washer pump?

If you get it done from a shop around $250 total for the new part, labor, and the computer diagnosis fee that is required for the mechanic to figure out what the probem is.

The 1996 Jeep Cherokee headlight relay switch can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The headlight relay switch will be on the drivers side of the firewall.

you can only adjust the rear drum brakes buy turning the star wheel on the automatic adjuster. there is a black rubber plug you can remove on the back of the backing plate to get the star wheel. or you can take the wheel and drum off and adjust it that way.

Usually The Temperature Will Range Between 160-195 depending on the type of thermostat installed and assuming all fan relays etc.. are operating (You have a low fan and high fan limiter for the electric fan @ the Radiator) If you are having a problem with overheating turn on Air Condition or Defroster on some vehicles this causes the fan to work indicating high blower relay may be to blame Hope This Helps

The firing order for a 2.8L V6 Jeep Cherokee is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. The number one cylinder is on the front left.

I dont describe things well but, your transfer case is underneath the driverside of your jeep to the left of transmission if you were facing the steering wheel from the driver sear. It looks like an extension or addition to the transmission. While underneath the jeep follow your front driveshaft back, what it connects to will be your transfer case.

depends on how you drive, where you drive, and the state of repair the vehicle is in

If you want broad averages go to fueleconomy.gov or auto.consumerguides.com

Follow the upper radiator hose to the motor. The hose will clamp onto a metal dome shaped cover. The thermostat is under that cover. Drain a few gallons of coolant, unbolt the housing, note how the thermostat is in the motor (there is a top and bottom), clean the old gasket off the hosing and motor, put in new thermostat and gasket, bolt the housing on...don't overtighten!!! Fill with coolant and if there is a screw on top of the housing, loosen the screw with engine running until coolant comes out bubble free.....retighten screw.

At one point they were essentially the same vehicle. 93-98 model year grands (the ZJ model) shared, same engine (4.0 models), same transmission, same drivetrain. The interior seating was a bit different, and the grand had 4 wheel coil spring suspension and 4 wheel disk brakes. The Cherokee had coils and disks up front, leaf springs and drum brakes on the rear. Both had front and rear solid "live" axles, and there was an option for a 2.5l 4 cylinder in the XJ (Cherokee), and an optional 5.2l V8 and 5.9l V8 in the Grand during various model years.

This changed a bit with a 99-04 Grand (WJ) getting more power plants along with the old 4.0l, and with quite a few changes throughout the chassis.

Its really mostly based on preference. I believe the Cherokee is a better off-road vehicle then the grand. but the grand is a smoother ride on pavement and has more "luxury" accessories. the xj has a more aggressive square look to it and the grands started the SUV/van trend we see today in most suvs from multiple companies.

try this.this is how it works on my 98 jgc.

hope it helps Disconnect your battery, then remove the two nuts from the starter wire harness. Pull the wire and cable of the studs. Remove starter bolts and slide starter out of bellhosing.