Jeep Cherokee

Typical H4 conversion is very simple. Pull the screws around the headlight bevel and remove it. Pull the screws on the headlight pull it out, disconect the the actual light. replace with the H4 housing and light in the oposite order.

On an automatic 1997 Jeep Cherokee with the inline 6 cyl 4.0L the neutral switch is combined with the Park and reverse switch. To repair the switch, unplug the harness from the top of the engine near the transmission dip stick. The switch is located on the passenger side of the transmission, right on the side. There is a bolt and a nut which must be removed, the bolt is for adjustment of the switch position and is near the top. The larger nut (Collet type) is near the bottom and is centered over an oval shaped shaft protruding from the transmission... BE WARNED!!!! these switches are VERY EXPENSIVE (~$160)!!!! so tread carefully and try not to break it. Mine was seized to the shaft and broke into about 8 pieces, luckily I have the know how to be able to repair them. You can free up the switch from the shaft with penetrating oil and pry against the loosened nut with a screwdriver while taping lightly on the shaft to back the switch off of the shaft. Inside the switch there is a problem where the grease gells over time and the wiper contacts stick away from the base contacts therefore they do not always make connection. Once you get the switch off in one piece, it is easily serviced by removing the screws on the back and slowly opening the case. Some of my screws were frozen and I had to break them off and drill out the holes, you may be lucky and get the screws out without this problem. When you have the switch apart I suggest you use a clean surface and put some cardboard down to catch any parts that fall out. Once open, you will see 2 copper wipe plates on the wiper arm, slowly remove them and under them you will see a spring for each side. Clean all the surfaces with brake cleaner or WD-40, you can burnish the contacts with a very fine 340 grit sandpaper. Once done reassemble putting a VERY thin layer of grease on the contacts to help prevent corrosion and allow the contacts to slide easier. Once you have put the module/switch back on make sure that the adjuster bolt is set in the right place... Put it on and make sure the reverse lights come on and it cranks in park. Tighten the adjuster bolt and put the nut back on and double check. NOTE: make sure you plug the harness back in or nothing will work lol. I want to add that the hardest part is getting the switch off. When you remove the Collet nut be sure to release it first by prying back the tabs on the retaining nut. (Note: when reinstalling, this nut is to be re-tightened to ONLY 5 INCH pounds!) After removal of the Collet nut, spray some parts buster or WD-40 onto the shaft area and let it sit. Put the Collet nut back on but not all the way tight and use a screw driver to pry the unit forward from the shaft SLOWLY!. Don't get carried away when it starts moving. When reinstalling put some never seize on the tranny output shaft in case you have to do this in the future.

you have to remove the interior panel. You did not state what year your Jeep is.Very carefully pop the panel out a little bit, you should have 2 screws in the bottom corners.The panel must be raised UP a bit to pull out. Take your time and damage will be minimal.good luck, Mike

Hey Tony==The crank sensor is on the rear of some jeeps attached to the bell housing. It in itself won't cause overheating. If you have electric fans, make sure they are operating properly. Make sure the radiator is flowing coolant and not have a bunch of build up. Good luck Joe

I tried trouble shooting my 1993 dodge dynasty when the fuel pump went intermittent. We looked for the accident fuel shut off relay everywhere thinking it was an active thing rather than a passive relay near the air filter.

As I remember it, the computer (in mine) shuts of the relay or rather doesn't turn it on and let it run--no power to the relay. I had a schematic of the Internet that showed two relays were involved--

That's all I can remember now--it's been months and "experts" gave me all sort of stupid and wrong information--trying to trouble shoot the pump in the tank--sensor wires and what not they were easy to see under the car.

They had cross-over pumps on some Internet site for about $50

I know where the two fuse boxes are, but no where in the owners manual does it give information as to which fuse is the one that controls the windshield washer pump. Does anyone know by number, what fuse # controls the windshield washer pump?

If you get it done from a shop around $250 total for the new part, labor, and the computer diagnosis fee that is required for the mechanic to figure out what the probem is.

The 1996 Jeep Cherokee headlight relay switch can be found on the firewall in the engine compartment. The headlight relay switch will be on the drivers side of the firewall.

you can only adjust the rear drum brakes buy turning the star wheel on the automatic adjuster. there is a black rubber plug you can remove on the back of the backing plate to get the star wheel. or you can take the wheel and drum off and adjust it that way.

Usually The Temperature Will Range Between 160-195 depending on the type of thermostat installed and assuming all fan relays etc.. are operating (You have a low fan and high fan limiter for the electric fan @ the Radiator) If you are having a problem with overheating turn on Air Condition or Defroster on some vehicles this causes the fan to work indicating high blower relay may be to blame Hope This Helps

The firing order for a 2.8L V6 Jeep Cherokee is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. The number one cylinder is on the front left.

I dont describe things well but, your transfer case is underneath the driverside of your jeep to the left of transmission if you were facing the steering wheel from the driver sear. It looks like an extension or addition to the transmission. While underneath the jeep follow your front driveshaft back, what it connects to will be your transfer case.

depends on how you drive, where you drive, and the state of repair the vehicle is in

If you want broad averages go to fueleconomy.gov or auto.consumerguides.com

Follow the upper radiator hose to the motor. The hose will clamp onto a metal dome shaped cover. The thermostat is under that cover. Drain a few gallons of coolant, unbolt the housing, note how the thermostat is in the motor (there is a top and bottom), clean the old gasket off the hosing and motor, put in new thermostat and gasket, bolt the housing on...don't overtighten!!! Fill with coolant and if there is a screw on top of the housing, loosen the screw with engine running until coolant comes out bubble free.....retighten screw.

At one point they were essentially the same vehicle. 93-98 model year grands (the ZJ model) shared, same engine (4.0 models), same transmission, same drivetrain. The interior seating was a bit different, and the grand had 4 wheel coil spring suspension and 4 wheel disk brakes. The Cherokee had coils and disks up front, leaf springs and drum brakes on the rear. Both had front and rear solid "live" axles, and there was an option for a 2.5l 4 cylinder in the XJ (Cherokee), and an optional 5.2l V8 and 5.9l V8 in the Grand during various model years.

This changed a bit with a 99-04 Grand (WJ) getting more power plants along with the old 4.0l, and with quite a few changes throughout the chassis.

Its really mostly based on preference. I believe the Cherokee is a better off-road vehicle then the grand. but the grand is a smoother ride on pavement and has more "luxury" accessories. the xj has a more aggressive square look to it and the grands started the SUV/van trend we see today in most suvs from multiple companies.

try this.this is how it works on my 98 jgc.

hope it helps Disconnect your battery, then remove the two nuts from the starter wire harness. Pull the wire and cable of the studs. Remove starter bolts and slide starter out of bellhosing.

yes they were made with no air if you cant find a belt routing find one for a wrangler with no air it is probably the same i think it has been a while ask at your local parts store for a diagram

A loose / slipping alternator belt, or the alternator itself is gone bad.

Yes, BUT it depends on wheel/tire size. Most wheels that big will hit the corners of the bumper/fender, leading to custom bodywork/cutting.

Personally I wouldn't go 24 inch wheels, because it's too hard on the stock suspension. Smaller rims with bigger tires are more comfortable and softer ride.

You probably shouldn't even think of doing this job. The heater core is located under the dash on the passenger's side. It is in the same case as the A/C Evaporator core. To remove this unit requires dropping of the steering column and COMPLETELY disassembling the entire dash right down to the firewall. This includes disconnecting all electrical connections, vaccuum lines, antenna connection, etc. I have done this job to replace the A/C evaporator core and would not recommend it unless you have a lot of patience, are very mechanically inclined and make all kinds of notes so you can reverse the procedure to put it all back together. My buddies all thought I was nuts to even attempt this job and they were probably right. even though the job turned out successful and saved me quite a bit of money. There is an added danger if you have a passenger side air bag. GOOD LUCK

Additional Information: I agree with the above answer. I have received quotes from reputable places to do this work that run close to $1400.00 most of which is labor. Since you're talking about a 13-14 yr old vehicle you might want to wait til summer (assuming that your AC works) and trade up to something else.

There isn't one on the 1990 model. Cabin air filters are recent additions to some models AC systems and this feature wasn't on any car in 1990.

Check your NSS Neutral Safety Switch. It has connections inside to let the trans go into the gears, including controling the reverse lights. It is located on the passenger side of your Jeep on the side of the trans. Here is a website that will help with it. http://jeepin.com/features/nss/ You could also have a bad Tourque Converter. You might have a bad Solonoid at the trans that would control the turning on and off of the OverDrive. You might want to get an opinion at a trans shop before doing any else first. I hope this helps you.

go to one auto shop store and buy some recharging A/C system kit, and also buy the couplings for your LOW SIDE A/C PORT, which is NOT r13-14a, is R12, that's called freon, the KIT is around 40 dolls and the KIT with the valves (converters from R12 to r13-14a) is around 10 dollars, you could make with these your conversion to r13-14a, good luck!

take your key and turn the lock on the drivers side door, turn till the security light goes off, hold for 3 to 4 seconds I get out of the car, stick the key in either door lock and unlock the door, then it should work. lock all your doors. go to the back lift gate and turn the key. sometimes the lock in the lift gate gets stuck and sets off the security system, exspecially after the battery died or was disconnected. I was just having the same problem after having it towed for 100.00 and two hours of taking apart the dash all it took was to lock the door open the hatch 1st with the key then unlock the drivers door. this worked for me i hope it works for you. I was just having the same problem after having it towed for 100.00 and two hours of taking apart the dash all it took was to lock the door open the hatch 1st with the key then leave it open for a few minutes ,then close it ,then unlock the drivers door. this worked for me i hope it works for you.