Jeep Liberty

I just had my 3.7 changed in my daughters 2002 Liberty Sport. I paid 2200 for a remaned engine (like new with 100k warranty parts/labor) and it cost me 1100 dollars to have it installed. Do the math 50 dollars an hour, somewhere around 22 hours labor.

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I may be wrong but I believe that it runs through the PCM and a sensor on the top of the rear differential.

You need a remote start system that works with the alarm/smart key system. You can not just unhook the alarm.

2002 Jeep Liberty 2WD Standard can be towed in neutral. 2002 Jeep Liberty 2WD Automatic cannot be towed. 2002 Jeep Liberty 4WD Standard & Automatic can be towed by placing transfer case in neutral and removing a fuse from the fuse block (ignition fuse). The 2WD Automatic must have the driveshaft disconnected or you must use a tow dolly or car trailer.

It is on the front of the crankshaft, under the timing chain.

You cannot solder that connection. There are small kits for repairing that connection that use a conductable epoxy system. The ywrok well all long as you can fit the lug back onto the window. Expect to pay aout $6.00 and follow the directions takes about a couple of minutes to stick and 24 hours to cure. Work well for me.

Open the engine hood and you will see 4 screws along the top edge of the grill , unscrew and remove grill , the bottom is held in with taps that fit in slots

Yes

18.5 gallons for both 2002 & 2003. Capacity was increased to 19.5 gallons in 2004, and to 20.5 gallons for the 2005, 2006 & 2007 model years.

LO WASH means you are low on windshield cleaner fluid.

You need the factory build sheet to tell you everything that was installed on your car when it was built. Go to this Chrysler customer service website. Fill out the form and they will email you a build sheet. http://www-5.jeep.com/wccsapp/universal/J/index.jsp?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Jeep&familyStr=brand&franchise=J&actionURL=%2Fwccs%2Fbrand_forms%2Fus%2Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=U

2.5 inches is the largest lift you can get safely without having to fabricate something for your forward differential.

Never use ATF fluid in your Liberty, you need to use the Mopar +4 fluid it's between $5.00 and $7.00 a quart, trust me I used ATF and caused my tranny to 'grab' or 'jerk' while shifting. The +4 fluid is a hi bred synthetic w/ specially formulated additives. I think my tranny took 4 quarts, there are (2) styles of tranny, mine is the one without the spin on filter, yours may be the same or have an external spin on + internal filter. I have not changed diffrential or transfer case oil yet, so I can;t help there. Never use standard mercon/dextron ATF fluid in your Liberty, you need to use the Mopar +4 fluid it's between $5.00 and $7.00 a quart, trust me I used standard ATF and caused my tranny to 'grab' or 'jerk' while shifting. The +4 fluid is a hi bred synthetic w/ specially formulated additives. I think my tranny took 4 quarts, there are (2) styles of tranny, mine is the one without the spin on filter, yours may be the same or have an external spin on + internal filter. I have not changed diffrential or transfer case oil yet, so I can;t help there.

its just a big tank, lol.. it is located underneath the vehicle all the way in the back. if you lay underneath your car from the back it is the first thing you will see ----

There should be some kind of position located on the transfer case . Some place where the shifter will engage it . The switch is most likely to be shorted together or stuck closed.good luck

The following steps must occur within first 60 seconds of ignition switch being turned to ON or START position. 1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position, and buckle the driver's seat belt. 2) Turn ignition key to theACCESSORY/RUN position, and wait for the Seat Belt Warning Light to turn off. 3) Within 60 seconds of starting the vehicle, unbuckle and then re-buckle the driver's seat belt at least three times within 10 seconds, ending with the seat belt buckled. 4) Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. A single chime will sound to signify that you have successfully completed the programming. The seat belt light will remain lit when belt is not fastened, but chime will not go off. To reactivate chime, repeat procedure 1-4 above.

If you are asking about the center "Hub-Cap" on the stock wheels, and of their removal, you have to remove the wheel from the car first. On the inside of the wheel, there are I think three 5/16" head screws that screw through the wheel into the plastic hub cap. Once you remove these screws, the cap is free from securement and will simply fall off.

The oil filter on my 2005 Jeep Liberty with a 3.7L engine is in the lower right corner of the engine. It is directly below the serpentine belt. You can access it by either looking down through the engine from directly above it, or by looking from underneath the engine through the space between the front bumper and front axle.

The SRS is integrated, it could be a genuine air bag issue, if so get the professionals to repair it, or a seat belt issue, if one of the belt receivers is not working it will trigger the code.

If spark plug for #2 or #3 cylinder is being removed, throttle body must be removed. Refer to Throttle Body Removal. # Remove air cleaner tube and housing. # Twist secondary cable at cylinder head to break loose at spark plug. Remove cable from plug. # Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber. # Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. # Inspect spark plug condition. Each individual spark plug is located under each ignition coil. Each individual ignition coil must be removed to gain access to each spark plug. Refer to Ignition Coil Removal/Installation. # Prior to removing ignition coil, spray compressed air around coil base at cylinder head. # Prior to removing spark plug, spray compressed air into cylinder head opening. This will help prevent foreign material from entering combustion chamber. # Remove spark plug from cylinder head using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert. Also check condition of ignition coil o-ring and replace as necessary. # Inspect spark plug condition. INSTALLATION CAUTION: Spark plug tightening on the 2.4L is torque critical. The plugs are equipped with tapered seats. Do not exceed 15 ft. lbs. torque. Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged. Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque. Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain insulator. # Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading. # Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifications. # Install throttle body. # Install air cleaner tube and housing. Special care should be taken when installing spark plugs into the cylinder head spark plug wells. Be sure the plugs do not drop into the plug wells as electrodes can be damaged. Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque. Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap or a cracked porcelain insulator. # Start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand to avoid cross threading. # Tighten spark plugs. Refer to torque specifications. # Before installing coil(s), check condition of coil o-ring and replace as necessary. To aid in coil installation, apply silicone to coil o-ring. # Install ignition coil(s).

group 34 approx 600 cca

I have 2002 3.7 liter and it is the front part of the enginge sort of on the driver's side at a awkward angle. I have yet to be able to remove it w/o the oil from the filter spilling all over the place. Whoever designed this doesnt change his\her own oil. Good luck.

They should not need changing until 90,000 miles.