Kia Spectra

the 1H nmr is a doublet and the splitting must arise from the 3 bond coupling between protons and phophorus

One of the bulbs is burnt out and not working.

if it is a automatic youhave to drain the fluit some have a plug in the bottom of the transmission it a 19mm hex bolt.if it dosent have the plu you will have to remove the pan. be carefull as transmission fluid will come out

It happend when a desease broke out she was the only one in her family that got it they did everything to help her but it was too late she died the next day exactley 12.00 pm

To change front brakes remove the wheel , use a 17 m.m. wrench or socket and remove the 2 calliper bolts ( remember which is top and bottom, they are different) compress the piston in the caliper with channel locks or a piston compressor tool, remove pads and clips replace with new ones, assemble in reverse order and torque lug nuts. Important pump brake pedal and check fluid before driving car, pedal will be low for first 2 or 3 pumps then should come up.

This is the only fuse in the instrument fuse panel with a plastic shroud around it. It's difficult to see if it's blown, but if your radio and interior lights won't work, make sure you check this fuse! Pull out the shroud with the fuse until it stops. Using something like needle nose pliers, squeeze both legs of the shroud at the same time toward the middle, where the fuse is. It'll come out. But that's only half the battle, because it was difficult to get the fuse itself out of the shroud. Using the same needle nose pliers, work open the top of the shroud just enough for the little bumps to be clear of the top of the fuse. Push up on the metal terminals of the fuse to bring the fuse out of the top of the shroud.

Now for the next question, why does this fuse have this plastic protection around it??

• Check the level of the clutch fluid in the Kia Spectra's reservoir that's located in the rear left of the engine bay. The Kia Spectra actually used the brake master as its source of fluid for the clutch. Add fluid to the recommended level if it's low, then pump the clutch pedal to restore the pressure in the line. If the fluid level doesn't remain the same, you might have a leak in the system. Replace or repair any leaking parts.

• 2

  Adjust the height of the clutch pedal by turning the knob at the top of the pedal of the Kia Spectra. This changes the point at which the pedal engages. Test the pedal and tighten the adjuster knob when you are done.

• 3

  Bleed the clutch to remove any air bubbles from the system. Open the bleeder valve that's located on the slave cylinder (near clutch housing) and insert a tube. Put the other end of the tube into a clear container with clutch fluid. Pump the clutch pedal until you don't see any air bubbles in the container. Replace the fluid in the brake master cylinder.

• 4

  Inspect the components of the Kia Spectra's clutch: the flywheel, pressure plate and disc. Replace the clutch components if they're worn.

• Read more: How to Adjust the Clutch in a Kia Spectra | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4484785_adjust-clutch-kia-spectra.html#ixzz16y2sthH4

It is just above the oil filter on the rear of the engine block.

Kia shares engineering designs with several mfg. Because of this, they do not publish drive trace info. Us ethe following options when setting Kia readiness: Early models (use Mazda drive trace): Pre-reqs: -clear codes, fuel fill between 15 and 85 %, all accessories off, cold start (prefer 8 hour cold soak engine between 68 and 86 deg. F) -start vehicle and idle for 5 min -rev engine in neutral or park to 2300-2700 rpm for 15 sec -rev engine in neutral or park to 3800-4200 rpm for 15 sec -idle engine for 20 sec with cooling fan stopped -accelerate to 52-55 mph, maintain speed in high gear for 1 1/2 min -deccelerate to 15 mph, drive for 13 min at speeds ranging from 15-35 mph -maintain a steady 25 mph for 5o sec Late models: use Hyundai drive trace -cold start (undefined by mfg), fuel fill between 15 and 85%, codes cleared, elevation below 8,000 ft -Note start time. you will need it later. Drive 2 min at 35 mph -stop and idle car 1 min -drive at 45 mph for 10 min, keeping rpms between 2000-2400 -deccelerate to 35 mph. selecting second gear, accelerate engine to 4000 rpm, and lift off throttle for 10 sec -repeat last step four more times -drive at 55 mph until 16 min have passed since starting drive trace. If time since start exceeds 20 min, evaporative monitor will not run. -Stop and idle car 4 mintip in throttle every min to change idle state. There is a universal drive cycle that requires checking car repeatedly with obd II readiness tool, so you may want to leave that to your mechanic.

Hi, it sounds like a faulty wheel bearing on the passenger side (not a difficult repair), but could also be a CV joint although they usually click when worn out. Ray

I have the same truck as you do, and I am sorry to say that this year model doesn't have an in-line fuel filter. You will have to replace the fuel pump which is located in the fuel tank. This part itself will run you around $250, not including the labor to drain and remove fuel tank :(

Is your truck shacking?

Use a bolt extractor. It is not recommended to reuse the head bolts, that is why they are designed to not fit a 12mm or a 13mm.

behind the glove box it will be in the owners manual you release the two gromets holding the glove box in place and gain acces behind the box once it drops

while facing the front of car on right side of engine between the right side of the car and the engine half way down you should see a [yellow] knob which is the trans dip stick take that out and funnel fluid into that tube. fill and measure with the same dip stick while car IS running or ask checkers or autozone for specs

If you ask the dealer they say 60k miles. but if you read your manual it says 90k miles. the dealer is trying to replace it early for more money. it only needs to be replaced at 60k if you fall under the category of extreme driving. which is long idling, constant stop and go, excessive speeds, steep hills, ect.

also and i could be wrong but i think what the manual says if a suggestion. however i would not go much further then 90k but i think if your close it should be fine. i have 95k and i'm doing it next week. so wish me luck and hope i didn't wait too long.

also you can save money if you do it yourself. if you want to get everything like the tension pulley idler pulley and the water pump its cheapest to go to jcwhitney. it cost me 112 bucks

Right in the dipstick hole. Get a small funnel and add fluid little at a time. Be careful, slightly low fluid is better than overfilled

just did this one... i took off the intake manifold and all wires and vaccum hoses conected and then just moved it to the side. gives you plenty of room to remove/install the starter.

bought mine a few years ago with 135k on it. im over 202k now, with no problems. minor repairs & maintenance is all. its a 2003 gsx.

Centered behind the headlight is a single screw used to adjust the headlight vertically. The one on the drivers-side is hard to get to because of the battery. You have to use a very short Phillips screwdriver to make the adjustment, or just remove the battery. If you're having trouble finding it, stand by the drivers-side fender and look at the back of the headlight - you might not be able to see it if you're standing in front of the car looking down.

Open the trunk or hatch, remove the 2 screws. There are 2 friction posts (towards the outside of the assembly) still holding the assembly on. With gradually increasing force, work the tail light assembly straight out towards the rear.

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6.5 in front

2002 Spectra is a Siemens 1.8 liter, 2004 is a Bosch 1.6 liter...totally different.

check dimmer switch on dash very easy to forget . Could be light bad if dash stillworks