Lincoln LS

FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF SWITCH After a collision, if the engine cranks but does not start, the fuel pump shut-off switch may have been activated. The "Fuel Reset" indicator light will illuminate in the instrument cluster. The shut-off switch is a device intended to stop the electric fuel pump when your vehicle has been involved in a substantial jolt. 1. Turn the ignition to the OFF position. 2. Check the fuel system for leaks. 3. If no fuel leak is apparent, reset the fuel pump shut-off switch by pushing in the reset button. 4. Turn the ignition to the ON position. Pause for a few seconds and return the key to the OFF position. 5. Make a further check for leaks in the fuel system. Roadside emergencies The fuel pump shut-off switch is located in the passenger's foot well, behind the kick panel

Check the Vehicle Emissions Control Information ( VECI ) decal located in the

front of the engine compartment ( it will show the type of spark plugs to use

and the spark plug gap )

On a 2000 Lincoln LS :

In the FRONT power distribution box ( which is " live " ) located in the

engine compartment ( on the passenger side of the engine compartment )

( relay # 14 is for the PCM power )

On a 2000 Lincoln LS ;

The fuel pump relay is ( relay 007 ) in the rear power distribution box

( the only relay that is by itself )

You can view the 2000 Lincoln LS owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( page 182 has a diagram of the rear power distribution box )

"You but your butt on it and turn it on... can you be any more dumb you ***"

What a butthead. I have the same issue with my Lincoln Continental. Here is a link I found informative, and hope it will be a help in diagnosing and repairing. Otherwise, buy a Hanes or Chilton manual, or take it to the dealer and cry when you get the repair bill.

http://s-cars.org/postnuke/downloads/pdf/Replacing%20a%20Failed%20Heated%20Seat%20Element.pdf

5x108

Purchase a Purolator filter. It comes with complete instructions. Right side (passenger side) bottom of front window behind fender and fire wall, there is a hidden compartment that houses the filter, its a little tricky to find but its there. I got the dealer ship to show me, and by the way just clean the filter with vacuum or blow it out, filter cost 50-75$, too much!

The air conditioning thermostat for a 2002 Lincoln LS 8 is located directly under the hood of the car. The air conditioning thermostat is used to control the termperature of the air that enters the cabin of the vehicle.

2001 Lincoln LS center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) light bulb lamp replacement: Purchase the correct replacement center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the center high mount stop (third 3rd brake light) bulb replacement procedure. As simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. If there are multiple bulbs, you may want to consider replacing all at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional).

Front / Rear of car shown F 1-2-3-4 B F 5-6-7-8 B 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 Good Luck!

5x108

No spark, no gas, timing off [sheared keyway]

remove plug attach wire lay on motor crank it, do you have spark?

put a small amount of gas into spark plug hole, replace plug, doe,s it start? misfires ? replace keyway , under flywheel,

Where I come from a push mower does not have an engine so it starts when you do.

pcv valve problem?

4500 miles

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of Lincoln LS ( V8 )

All the Buick owners manuals (1993 - 2007) in pdf format are currently available here:

http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/owners-manual/buick_owner_manuals.html

Please note: I am not associated with this website in anyway... was searching for the same manual myself and came across the above link and thought it might help someone else in the future.

May be the Idle Air Control Valve sticking or dirty.

It may have a leaking head gasket. Has the coolant level dropped and needed more antifreeze . If so check it with a pressure tester

broken or stuck sensor... bad thing... easiest is to replace whole lock...

According to the 2002 Lincoln LS Owner Guide :

For the 3.9 liter V8 engine :

( 6.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 engine oil )

Oxygen Sensor If you look inside the wheel wells behind the fender liner, right about where the frame is one O2 sensor, the other is underneath about half way back in relation to the transmission. If you see where the exhaust joints together, you went about 6" too far.

When you start looking at the O2 sensors, they are normally numbered something like "Bank 1 Sensor 1" Bank 1 is on the passenger side; Bank 2 is on the driver's side. Sensor 1 is the upstream sensor (near the frame, between the block and the cat) and Sensor 2 is near the Y-pipe (downstream of the cat).

Normally it is the upstream sensors (sensor 1) that go first. They see the harshest conditions. You will need; Oxygen Sensor Socket Anti-Seized Penetrating Oil Sometimes it will take 15 minutes or take a few hours it depends on your luck…

Front

This is a time consuming job, but can be done with basic hand tools. It's just a matter of using the tools in the right combination for each bolt. I did have to run out and buy a 7 mm wrench, as well as a 1/4 drive 10 mm deep well to get to a couple of tight areas.

You should have all combinations of 1/4" and 3/8" drive extensions, sockets, deep sockets, and adapters. Swivels sockets and a a 10mm socket wrench and 3/8" flexible drive help. To remove the bolts nearest the firewall, I used a 10mm 3/8 socket with a 3/8 to 1/4" adapter seated only partially in so that I could use a 3/8" wrench to turn the socket. Get every 10mm tool known to man and get creative.

My Craftsman Automotive Tools set did not include those. Most bolts are 7 mm and 10 mm in this job. You will need some gasket sealant, anti-sieze compound, and dielectric grease.

Do not make the same mistake that I made here. I went to FordPartsOnline and purchased a valve cover gasket for the right and left side. This did NOT include all of the seals necessary to do the job. You will need 4 seals for the plug wells and 2 more seals for the valve cover bolts that are in the center of the cover.

Get the kits:

LH - XW4Z-6584-BB Gasket Kit RH - XW4Z-6584-AB Gasket Kit

This is pretty much what your engine is supposed to look like once you have it back together. I would suggest taking pictures as you go along, if you have a bad memory or haven't worked on cars much. Everything only goes on one way pretty much, but if you have a digital camera, it doesn't cost anything and may save you a little time in the end.

First step is to remove the engine cover. It is just 2 plastic clips and one rubber fastener. Next remove the air intake assy. Those plastic hoses come off by pressing in on both sides where the plastic is grooved for grip. Pull STRAIGHT out and they should come out. One of mine was pretty tough, but just be sure not to force it out as you might crack it. Once this is done you can actually see the engine!

The coil packs are hidden behind covers in the center of the valve cover. A 1/4" drive with a tiny extension and 7 mm socket gets all of the RH ones out. The LH side is more tricky. The bolt closest to the brake booster can be removed using a 7 mm wrench. You will have to remove the bolts holding the fan fluid reservoir in place to move it out of the way, as well as 2 bolts holding a harness in place near the rear for the RH side. For the LH you will need to remove the bolts for the power steering reservoir and the EVP unit which is two bolts on the strut tower.

Be careful when removing the electrical connector on the coils. Pull straight back after pushing on the release tab. You can see someone pulled up on the last coil in this picture. I was able to "force" it back in place. I thought it would crack, but it survived and clicked back. I had one bad coil and replaced it with an Advanced Auto part, but it had a Ford part number with a newer rev letter. FordPartsOnline has them also. You can remove the boots and clean them as well as the spring. I suggest using dielectric grease on both ends of the rubber as well as the electrical connectors.

Look down the well and check for oil. If you find ANY down there, you need to do the gasket replacement. The theory is that the oil helps to short out the high voltage end of the coil causing it to go bad. It seems that they go bad without oil as well though. If your coils come out too easily, your boots need replacing. It should try to "stick" to the plug. I used a little brake cleaner and a paper towel to clean the well.

I say start with the RH side first to build confidence. The biggest pain for me was making sure all the wiring harness fasteners were removed from the valve cover. Once that is done, just lift up gently and slowly pull back and to the front of the vehicle. Do not force anything as these are plastic covers and cost about $120 each. I used a scotch bright pad and lightly went over all gasket mating surfaces to clean it up. I then used brake cleaner. The ONLY place to use sealant is between the front cover and head along the seams on the top and bottom. This is where the cam chain cover mates with the block.

You can see here that the old seals were gray. Your new seals should be black and have been revised for more reliability. I used brake cleaner to dry all the surfaces of oil and installed the new seals. The bolts are an interesting design as they hold the gasket in place for installation. Just press on the new seal through the bolts and washer/spacer assy. Be sure your bolts have been cleaned also. I say start with the RH side first to build confidence. The biggest pain for me was making sure all the wiring harness fasteners were removed from the valve cover. The RH side lower right side wire harness connector pushes in, not out like the others. On the RH side, you will need to remove the bolts that hold down the reservoir on the right and the black metal bracket that holds some wiring harnesses on the left. You do not need to remove, just pull them out of the way to get access to the valve cover bolts.

You also need to remove the air cleaner assy for the LH job. That dipstick nut can be tough if you don't have a short enough deep-well socket also. The dipstick can then be lifted enough to move out of the way. You may also need to remove the bolt on the strut tower that holds the fuel line to access the VC bolt there. These lower bolts are a tight fit. I used a 1/4" drive for all of these and had a heck of a time, but was able to get to them.

There are two bolts holding a vaccum module at the back of the head also. You must remove them and move the unit aside. There is another plastic piece that looks like it will be in the way still, but you will be able to clear it. I totally removed the EVP to make room also. There is a metal bracket along the top of the valve cover that must be removed as well.

The fuel line must be disconnected for clearance. Find the schrader valve and release pressure from there first. I used my fuel pressure gauge as it has a release button. Get a set of those plastic fuel line release tools, if you don't have them. They work great. Push it in place and pull the fuel line straight out using a rag to catch any run-off. The line will twist out of your way now. If you are in a garage with a gas furnace, be careful here!

Be sure to torque the bolts from the center out. Torque specs for the valve covers are 89 in lbs. Once you have it all back together and start the engine, be sure to check for fuel leaks or other oddities. Don't be alarmed if huge clouds of oily smoke come out of the exhaust on first start up. Oil may have pooled at the bottom of the spark plug wells, and then dripped into the combustion chambers when the oily plugs were removed. You can bet that you will be burning some oil off the exhaust for a few hours also. My LH side took a couple of hours of driving to totally clear up. I would also suggest driving the car for a week or so and then pull the coils back out to make sure everything is dry. If it is, you should be good to go!

Go to the Related Link for pictures and details:

This is not an easy matter to solve. The idle is set at the time of MANUFACTURE and is a function of [IAC] Idle air control valve. Throttle stop shrew positioning and [eecu] engine electronic control unit. Inspect the Idle air controller after removing it from the throttle body. the valve within it[ that looks like a donut ] can sometimes be adjusted to a more closed setting by turning it.

Check the Air Condition To verify that engine idles higher when it is turned on. take a scanner and check the fuel trim Intake air tempature, coolant temprature and ignition advance . Inspect the throttle pedal cable and throttle valve travel. Sometimes disconnection the battery turning the lights on to drain the system then re powering the car would re flash the computer. "Not my best remedy" but you can also adjust the trottle stop shrew or slightly bend the throttle stop tab