Lincoln LS

I have a 2006 lincoln ls sport in which the 3rd brake light cover isn't connected properly. When I drive I can see out of my mirror that it's moving. Is there a way to keep it from moving?

You can view the 2002 Lincoln LS owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides ( it's listed under Lincoln LS )

( page 222 has a drawing of the engine compartment and shows what the

reservoirs are for )

Open the 2003 Lincoln engine compartment hood. Take hold of the headlight light bulb connector. Push the light bulb connector in and turn at the same time. The light bulb will come out. Reverse the process to install the new light bulb.

You can view the 2003 Lincoln LS owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

According to the 2004 Lincoln LS owners manual :

There is no dipstick for the automatic transmission

There is a piece within the shift control called the Tachometer which messure the rpm the car is using. This will contorl what type of speed the car can hit. If during the time that your are shifting from 4-5 this has the rpms over 3000 sometimes a car needs to take a seconcd to pass the redline in the tachometer to ensure the car engine doens't blow out or what is called over heat. If you experience these problems often it could mean a serious malfunction under the hood!

1. It's best not to allow one to get clogged in the first place. Use only "Top Tier" gasolines that contain higher levels of cleaning agents/detergents (see website - google search - "Top Tier Gasoline"). With each oil change add two bottles of fuel system cleaner (Try Prestone Fuel System Cleaner or Techron).

2. If the injector can be cleaned (maybe not) add several bottles of cleaner as recommended above. If there's no improvement you will have to replace the injector(s). Other problems can cause similar symptoms, such as a bad coil.

Yes you can install an AC on a vintage VW Beetle. However, If it has the stock motor in it (probably 1500 cc) I would not recomend it without taking other precautions to help keep the engine cool. You will also lose a lot of horsepower (take off and running power not to mention fuel mileage) if you make this addition. It has been many years since I was into VWs but I believe the 1600 cc is something like 53 horsepower but don't qoute me. I have slept a lot since the early 90's and just don't remember for sure. I would recomend picking up one of the VW mags from a store sometime. There used to be two "VW Trends" and "Hot VWs". If I remember right, VW Trends had the most helpful information and less women in string bikinis. You will be able to find plenty of places that will sell you an aftermarket AC to install on your VW. They probably have covered it at some point in one of the magazines also. You can order backorder issues from them that have all of the info you are looking for.

" premium " unleaded , 91 octane or higher

If you are thinking of purchasing one, my recommendation is DON"T. The car had generally good reviews, BUT...here is a list of thing which went wrong with mine. It now has 160,000 miles on it and I will drive it until it dies.

Ball joint on upper control arm went bad = $600

Steering rack went bad = $800

Head gaskets started leaking = $600

Transmission went out = $3700

Rear brake caliper carrier froze = $400

Replaced all coils and plugs because head gaskets leaked again = $1250

My advice is to look for OEM parts on Ebay and try to do as much of the work yourself as you are comfortable with.

Usually when a Catalic Converter becomes unusable, it is usually caused by a enriched fuel system. The rich fuel mixture causes the internal catalyst to become they usually generally melted down inside. This excessive heat is built up when the engine is running in a "too rich fuel mixture". After the converter has been replaced, the automobile should be taken to a repair facility, and have them connect their electronic control monitoring equipment to your on board computer, so the reason for the enriched fuel mixture can be determined and repaired.

theres two on both sides on the car..on top of the radiator.. they are green and look like they have liquid in them thats wrong!

if it flashes 3 times and then stops then flashes 2 more times that's code 32 and that means you need a clock spring for you steering wheel

i think its located on the left strut tower you have a code po443 right

most spark plugs in newer gm cars is .60"

I'm currently working on a 2002 Lincoln LS 3.9 V8. It has the seemingly famous "misfiring" problem, when the engine is revved to 3000 rpm. It had oil in the spark plug holes due to failed valve cover gaskets, and the OBDII said it had a misfire on #2 cylinder. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, put in new spark plugs, and cleaned up all oil soaked parts. FYI, the coil packs can be cleaned, as the rubber boots come off, and the springs are just pushed over an electrical spade connector in the coil. So I twisted the spring clockwise to remove. Anyway, all was cleaned and put back, but I put the coils back in random locations. If the coil is really bad, the computer will find it again and report it. I reset the computer, and sure enough it found it again, only on #4 this time. So I figured it was a bad coil and replaced it. It did NOT fix the problem. I've seen people posting that having oil in the spark plug holes will "short out" the coils to the cylinder head, causing failure. This theory does not hold (oil), as motor oil is non-conductive, and would not be responsible for the failure of a solid state, factory sealed electronic coil pack. Not to mention that if they were all truly bad, the car wouldn't run at all. My car run great until the 3000 RPM mark, then starts missing. No, I don't think all the coils need replacement at once. In fact, I think the random misfire reports on the computer are false, due to the engine misfiring from lack of fuel. The reported fuel pump or jet pump failure, causing low fuel pressure makes more sense, based on the symptoms I've described. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and test with engine off, key on. then test with engine running. If your readings are low, I'd go for the fuel pump and throw in a fuel filter while you're at it. DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING RELATED TO THE FUEL PUMP/FUEL TANK!!!!! Ignition coils don't blow 6 or 8 at a time, lets get real!

Press the STATUS button on the dash, when it gets to AC filter press and hold the reset button.

there is 2 oval plastic plugs in each door... remove it... and don't put back

Remove the bolts from the back side. Suggest you use penetrating oil at the hub opening and in the lug holes an hour or so before you try to horse them off. They're sometimes REALLY stuck on there. Only use a plastic or wood mallet to tap on the rotors, or you'll do 'em some harm.

According to the 2004 Lincoln LS Owner Guide :

For the 3.0 litre V6 engine :

With engine oil filter change :

( 6.5 litres / 6.9 U.S. quarts of 5W-20 engine oil )

I'm not a mechanic / technician but I know that the engine cylinder

locations on a Lincoln LS 3.9 liter V8 engine are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

So , I ASSUME it would be :

firewall

d - h

c - g

b - f

a - e

front

it is rite behind the speaker take the door panel off, black rectangular rubber piece on behind door panel.

According to the 2003 Lincoln LS Owner Guide :

The engine cooling system capacity for the 3.0 litre V6 is ( 11.2 U.S. quarts )

( so that's 2.8 U.S. gallons )

* from the factory it is a 50 / 50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze

( so that's 1.4 U.S. gallons of distilled water and 1.4 U.S. gallons of antifreeze )

I own a 2002 Lincoln LS and after looking everywhere for this answer I finally figured it out by playing with buttons on the dash board. Here's what you do: 1. Find the "STATUS" and the "RESET" buttons on the dash board. 2. Press the status button and watch as it automatically scrolls through its menu. 3. When it gets to oil life, hit the reset button. 4. The screen will then tell you to hold the reset button in order to reset it back to 100%. 5. Hold the reset button until it reads 100%, should only take a couple of seconds. 6. You're done! It's that easy...! =) 7. The same procedure works for the rest of the alarms. I own a 2002 Lincoln LS and after looking everywhere for this answer I finally figured it out by playing with buttons on the dash board. Here's what you do: 1. Find the "STATUS" and the "RESET" buttons on the dash board. 2. Press the status button and watch as it automatically scrolls through its menu. 3. When it gets to oil life, hit the reset button. 4. The screen will then tell you to hold the reset button in order to reset it back to 100%. 5. Hold the reset button until it reads 100%, should only take a couple of seconds. 6. You're done! It's that easy...! =) 7. The same procedure works for the rest of the alarms.

OK. The most probable reason for this happening is " believe it or not " a FUEL PUMP that is in decline. You can go "nuts" changing oxygen sensors and mass Airflow meters 'and so on', but I have a very memorable experience with this P0174 problem. use a scanner and look at the long and short term fuel trim. you may observe a adjustment very close to [+25 ]. the fuel pump is controlled by a rear control module and when the fuel pump has degraded to some predetermined point there is no way to compensate. Check the fuel pressure but you know some pumps experience heat fatigue and will not decline in performance just when it is tested WITH no load on the engine. There is also the fact that a full tank of gas cools the fuel pump more than a "low fuel" tank