Mazda MPV

The fuel pimp is in the gas tank. it is accesible by removing the center row of seats or if a captains chair only the one on the passenger side.remove the screws on the door threash hold trim lift up carpet on the north American there is a cutout behind the passenger seat in the sound board, lift that out and you will see a cover plate, unscrew that, now your down to the gas tank. the metal plate with the hoses and wires has the pump and the sender unit on it.

1 disconnect battery. (the wires to the starter pack a whallop if they short out or ground unexpectedly) 2 disconnect wires to solenoid. (the solenoid is on the starter. the main wire from the battery goes straight down to the starter. follow this under and behind the engine to find the starter location) 3 unbolt starter from transmission. (there are two if i recall, maybe three) 4 installation is the reverse, but you'll have to reset the the stereo and clock when you are done.

How do you charge the air conditioner on a 1992mazda mpv?

Remover center bench seat. Lift the carpet and mat up. You will see a long shiny plate. Remove the screws and the adjustment is under ther plate. tom_dee2002@yahoo.com

how remove headligth lenses for 2004 Mazda mpv

My 89 Mpv's is located right in the middle of the engine compartment underneath the intake.Its is an inline pcv so follow the hose up to it.

14 to 19 ft pounds tom_dee2002 at yahoo dot com

my mpv 23t 2006 takes 5.7L of oil

how i can chek my cigarret electric conection, i replace the fuse but i dont have power on the cigarret conection

the monroes bolt right in and it is easy.

the onboard compressor is at the very front, passenger side (on my '94, anyway) under the battery and windshield washer reservoir.

you may not have to disconnect the compressor, but could instead rig the leveler sensor to always read a high ride, and the compressor wouldn't have to come on to adjust. the sensor is above the rear differential and has a little arm coming down to the axle.

if your compressor is functioning properly you could just hook the monroes up to it and your levelling should work fine

Hi, I'm a new member here, as well as a new owner of a 2001 MPV with the 2.5 V6 engine. After hours of searching the 'net' and the owners manual, I had the same question. I gave up searching and called a local Mazda dealer and asked the Service Manager, he answered that the 2.5 V6 has a metal timing chain, that does not need changed, as a 'timing belt' would every 60k miles. I'm sorry for not knowing if the 3.0 V6 has the same. I was all set to buy a Chrysler Product, but in my hours of research (wife's words)into the 'sto n go', I came across the Mazda MPV and Honda Odyssey, with the back seat that folds into the floor, and the middle seats that slide together. After driving the Chrysler Town and Country and the Honda, I didn't like the sizes of them, they are too long and hard to judge the length of, when parking and/or backing up. I then found the MPV so I went to look at it and ended up driving it home. A Fold Flat Rear Seat, plus Side Windows that roll down in the Sliding Doors I still find it hard to believe that a quality van made in Japan, sent all around the world, has a 'Ford' engine, and it has a Timing Chain, taking into consideration the added costs of maintenance for changing a Timing Belt every 60,000 vs fixing the Timing Chain when it breaks, hopefully somewhere between 150,000 to 200,000 or more miles. Chaulk 1 up for Us, the consumer for once ! There seems to be a lot of complaints about the 2000 and 2001 year models with the 2.5 V6, 4 sp Auto trans, lacking power, but coming out of a 1994 Mazda B2300 (Ford Ranger in disguise) 2.3 L I4 with a manual trans, and before that a 1982 VW Rabbit 'L' Diesel. This van has lots of power. ZOOM ZOOM !

I just did this today! Firstly, it's easier if you unbolt the door at the top and bottom front hinges so that it can swing out (make sure you rest it on a milk crate or something to support the back hinge). Next you need to remove the inside handle which will slide off once you remove the locking pin holding it in place. Then pop off the inside door panel and slide it up over the lock. Peel away the plastic sheet (this can be messy if it's a warm day like today). Then you have to unbolt the three bolts holding in the entire latch/lock assembly, and unclip the plastic clip holding the lock, which will give you access to the nut holding the rear handle in place. The front nut is accessible from the front edge of the door. Undo the plastic clip holding the metal arm of the handle in place, and pull out the old handle piece.

The rear drum has two screws to hold it on. Remove the two screws. You will also see a third threaded hole with no screw in it. Take one of the screws you removed and thread it into the third hole and tighten it until the drum releases.

Try this site http://mazda5.org/ they have list of all mazda 5, in USA and Europe.

Good Luck

you have to remove the turn signal light and some of the trim (grill) to get to the screws that hold the light assembly in place. 10 minute job.

0.55 gap (+/-0.04; which I implore you to try to gauge on a disk gap tool...)

No

Thermostat is located underneath There are 3 bolts to undo. I talked to a mechanic and he said they usually don't remove them. I would ask local Parts Source place before you remove it. Parts Source will also show you diagram on their computer where it is located.

Very easy, but slightly time consuming. An impact wrench will save you some time and frustration. First you must remove the large cross member that runs under the muffler. It is held in with 4 large bolts and are usually tough to get out. Next you have to remove 1 of the exhaust pieces (the one that runs under the oil pan). The exhaust section is held in place in 3 places (3 nuts near the front of the car, 2 nuts on a support bracket, and 2 nuts closer to the muffler). Once these are all off you need to remove the exhaust section. It can be tough to get off but just keep at it. Now that everything is off the oil pan is exposed. Remove all the 13mm bolts and the 2 14mm ones that go in horizontal. It should fall off once all the bolts are off. If not just tap it a couple of times. Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner and install the new gasket. Reverse process and your done. Total time should range from 1-3 hrs.

Caution: This oil pan is fragile/weak. It is cast rather than steel so if you over tighten the bolts you might crack the oil pan. Oil pan bolts do not get tightened very much. About 1/2 turn more than finger tight.

Make sure you have the right transmission fluid. Changing the fluid will require removing the bottom of the pan and draining the fluid. You will need to replace the pan gasket and it is a good idea to replace the filter. There are kits available with the required parts.

There are a couple!

Main ones located in the engine bonnet

Accessories (lights radio etc) Fuse box located near the drivers foot well.

No there is not. The Monroe 818 air shocks are the closest that may work.

Special version, although it should be standard version.

one of the most common causes is the gas cap not being screwed on tight enough, or somehow becoming loose (such as a worn out cap). It will not reset right away (turn the light off) give it a day or two of cold starts and it should turn itself off.

It needs to be taken apart to find the problem. Once that is done the transmission always gets a complete rebuild since it's apart anyway.