Mazda MPV

Generally mass air flow sensors cannot be repaired, but are easy to replace. If the car is driving erratically (changing gears and revving randomly) , try unplugging the MAF sensor. This usually allows the car to go into "limp-home" mode. Not as bad as it sounds, just means a default air/fuel mixture is used.

Good luck.

I want to add this:

They sell mass air flow cleaner at the auto parts store. I tried it, it didn't work on mine.

When I unplugged the sensor, the car would die unless I kept the gas pedal down a couple inches. I bought an assembly on ebay. Problem solved. Before I changed it, it was hard to start. And when it did, it smelled like gas.... Then I would be sitting at a light and the car would start revving on it's own. People looked at me like I was nuts. They thought I wanted to race them.

There is no egr valve on a 1990 Mazda MPV 6 cylinder

need picture of 91 chevy cavalier rs. 12v 20/30 A 0 332 204171 bosch. what is it?

5 QT. 5W-30

I have a Mazda MPV v6 2000 model, right hand drive from japan, I read a couple of webpages and started to remove all seats etc when I realised I could save hours another way

It is easier to get a very sharp stanley knife and cut an access flap in the undercarpet between the front seat and the second row seat, (where your feet are when you are sitting in the second row seat) THIS WILL SAVE HOURS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING SEATS ETC. and the flap will not be noticed as it is covered by the removable top carpet, If you need help, email me on raymunt@gmail.com. After doing that unscrew 4 screws to remove the cover, disconnect the 2 fuel lines by squeezing the retaining clip and pulling the pipes off, remove the electrical connection carefully by easing the retaining clip and pulling the connector off, clean all around the unit so dirt does not go into your tank, unscrew all the small screws and lift out the pump and filter unit. I takes longer to cut the carpet and underlay than remove the pump. To remove the tank, after the top unit is disconnected, feove the big filler rubber pipe and two small ones above it, unscrew 5 bolt and it drops out so easily. I siphoned my fuel out first through the filler pipe. it took me about two hours to clean out the tank and replace but next time it will take less than 30 minutes because of that access hole in the carpet. I have a few photos but do not know how to put them on this site

try to unbolt bottom of glass that mounts to the window regulaer track. take door panel offwhile key is on bang window with rubber or nylon mallot this can free up motor some times

Mazda issued recalls for 2002-2003 MPV Fan Control Module. It consistently went bad. I have a 2004 MPV, and though it was not a part of the recall, the cooling fan began behaving erratically several weeks ago. It would seem to run loudly and often even when idling and whether or not the A/C was on. It would even run loudly when the van was first turned on and the engine was still cold. It would often continue to run even after the engine was turned off and the key removed.

After doing some research, I concluded that the fan control module must have failed in mine like so many other people's did. I found replacement parts for around $20 plus shipping online, or about $30 from the local dealer.

It took about an hour or so to replace on my own. 1) Disconnect the battery and remove it from the engine compartment. 2) Remove the pedestal that the battery sits on (it's connected with four bolts). 3) Disconnect the old FCM from it's mounting (two bolts). 4) Disconnect the three cable from the old FCM (I found it easier to use a small regular screwdriver to press down on the interior connector 'fingers" from the direction opposite the cables). 5) Reconnect the cables, then the mounting bolts, reinstall the battery pedestal and the battery.

This seems to have fixed the problem. No more high running fans or running while the engine is off. I only hope the replacement part doesn't similarly go bad...

Found solution on this site-> http://forums.mazdaworld.org/index.php?showtopic=18013

Have you changed your coolant by draining the system with the radiator drain plug and the drain plug for the rear heater (a fitting under the van), then refilled with new coolant only to find you can't get any heat out of the rear heater? If you get the engine up to temperature and go around to the right rear wheel and feel the two hoses (actually insulated metal tubes) above the wheel, you will probably find they are cold because you now have an airlock in the rear heater coolant path.

The workshop manual suggests you can cure this by getting the engine up to temperature and then running the engine at 4000rpm for 1 minute, idle for 1 minute, then keep repeating this cycle until happy. THIS DOES NOT WORK unless you are patient enough to go through many cycles.

First some basics. When the engine is up to temperature and the thermostat is open, the output of the water pump sees 4 parallel circuits; the radiator, the engine circulation, the front heater core and the rear heater core. There are no valves closing the two heater core paths, so coolant is flowing through them all the time regardless of the cabin heat setting. What you have to do is increase the pressure and flow to the rear heater to get rid of the air lock, and you can do this by closing off some of the other parallel loops. Start with the engine cold, the closed thermostat will then block circulation to the radiator. Now get a pair of needle-nose vise grips and reach over the right side of the engine (passenger side) to where the two rubber hoses go through the firewall to the front heater core and pinch one of them off. They are about 1" outside diameter and are rubber, DO NOT pinch any metal refrigerant lines. If you now run the engine at moderate speed, say 2000rpm for a few minutes, it should get rid of the air lock. Recheck the hoses above the right rear wheel, if they are reasonably hot (remember they are insulated), you should now be getting heat out of the rear heater and you should have to top up the coolant recovery tank when the system is cold.

The rear heater and tubing takes almost 2 liters of coolant so you could end up with a lot of air trapped in the rear circuit. If the above method still doesn't give success, you might have to remove the plastic trim panel from the rear of the inside of the van to gain access to the heater unit and then burp air out of the coolant hoses where they attach to the heater core. Do this by sliding the hose clamp back then CAREFULLY and slowly easing the hose off the heater core fitting to let air out. As soon as coolant appears, push the hose back on and reclamp it. If you are careless, you could end up with a lot of coolant in the back of your van.

there is an easier way... you clamp one of the heater hoses going to the back, under the hood and run the van. It doesn't take long and you'll get heat. I know since I've done tons of those rear pipe

Generally speaking, no. Why? The size of the tire is increasing both in width & height. These dimensions play a part in clearances/tolerances between mechanical parts such as your brake calipers, strut/shock set up, & wheel well clearance. Always consult a tire dealer specialist, their advice is usually free of charge.

Try looking at the far end of the transmission just before the drive shaft (on the driver side). I have a 1992 Mazda MPV. The sensor is a tiny piece of plastic screwed to the transmission by a (10 mm head) screw. It is a round cylinder inside the transmission. Also connected to the plastic piece is a wire that is about 1 foot long to its connection. The speed sensor actually won't slide out since the floor board is in the way. It is necessary to remove both cross-members of the drive shaft and leverage the shaft down to slide the sensor out (3/4" wide by 1" long).

I found out the hard way that the MPV's have coil packs, they are hard to get to and I never did find a local shop willing to take on the project. I pretty much had no choice but to take it to the dealer, they were the only ones willing to do the work and it was rather expensive

Look for a small round opening between the headlight housing and the piece it attaches to. A long screwdriver should allow adjustment.

The firing order for a 2001 Mazda MPV is 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6. The 3 cylinders closest to the firewall are numbers 3, 2, 1 when viewed from left to right.

disconnect battery, drain coolant, remove air intake piping and air flow sensor, upper radiator hose, fan and fan shroud, drive belts for alternator, ac and power steering, idlers, crankshaft pulley, timing belt covers. Put the bolt back in the crankshaft and rotate the engine until the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets line up correctly. Now take off the timing belt tensioner unit, then all three idler pullies, and the belt. Clean everything off, install a new belt, new idler and tensioner pullies, a new tensioner unit, line up all your marks again, double check, triple check, then pull the pin on the tensioner. roll the crank around twice and check your marks again. Reassemble everything. Have a beverage.

This is the procedure I used for my 2000 MPV. I'm thinking it should be the same but can't say for certain.

- Go to an auto parts store and buy #74 bulbs (I found they were a little big, but I still managed to squeeze it in)

- Take off the dash panel cover (undo 2 screws located above the steering wheel)

- Grab the panel by the air vents and give it a tug to dislodge all the retaining clips around the panel.

- Undo 3 screws that hold the instrument cluster in place and you will be able to remove it from behind the steering wheel (optionally, disconnect the 4 wiring harnesses for easier removal)

- Turn the instrument cluster around and use needle nose pliers to twist out the light base behind the odometer.

- Remove burnt out bulb from the twist lock base, (but save the green rubber bulb cover) and replace with a new one (put the green rubber cover on the new bulb).

- Twist the light back in (doesn't matter if it's upside down)

- Reassemble instrument cluster, and test the lights by turning the ignition to "ACC" or start the engine.

- Replace the dash panel

FYI - while I had mine apart, I visually inspected ALL bulbs to see if any others were burnt out. I found 4 that I had to replace! Makes you wonder what would happen if your Check Engine light was burnt out.

2001 Mazda MPV does not have a timing belt, it has two timing chains.

strangly enough NO because mazda is known for its great engine but its a 2.9 v 6

Boston 3.0 liter engine rocker arm bolt torque specification is 20 pounds. The rocker arm bolts should be torqued in 10 pound intervals.

I had the same problem. It would stall out after coasting down a hill. Cleaned the throttle body about six months ago. Has not stalled since then.

It is important to know the fuel tank size of a car. The Mazda mpv fuel tank size varies based on the year, but it's general size holds between 17 and 19 gallons.

Replace idle air control valve. 2 10mm bolts and about 15 min. $100.00 at mazda.

I have a 98 MPV and had to replace the blower motor as it had seized. I found the blower above the front passenger foot well, behid the glove compartment. It is quite difficult to twist your body to get your head and arms up there to make the swap, but I did so and everything works fine now.

where is the oil fifter located at on a 2002 Mazda lpv lx located at