Mazda MPV

1-4-2-5-3-6

do you need the pictures of how the wires go ? i have an mpv i can take pics

intake manifold tune valve control circuit bank 1. I had this code on my 2002 mpv and it ended up that the connector came unplugged, so check that first

The firing order is 123456, 135 are on the passenger front to back and 246 are on the drivers side front to back I forgot to tell you clockwise.

CONSIDERING THEY RUN HYDRAULIC LIFTERS... YES IT HARD.

You do not need to remove the manifold.

Before starting get only ford wires and spark plugs.

Mazda or Ford dealership will have the stuff. Replace both together.

Use dielectric grease as well and gap the plugs correctly.

For the 2001 you will need to know your VIN, as they changed the coilpack midflight, so there are two types of wires. One has clips,and the other just a push on.

You will need some socket extensions and a spark plug socket with rubber catch inside.

Step 1. Remove IMRC module 3 10mm bolts, move carefully to the side.

It is a rectangular box low right side with 3 bolts.

The front 3 plugs (cyl 4,5,6) is now exposed to replace.

Step2.

The rear plugs look hard, but not so bad.

Unclip the coil pack wire. Depending what kind of coil pack you have there will be 3 or 4 bolts. 4 bolts if you have clip on wires, or 3 if you do not (2 on the left side, 1 center on the right). I think they are 7mm, can't remember.

You will need a short extension. You will be working a little blind, but it is not so bad. Point a flashlight in there. Pay attention to the ground strap on the right hand side, it comes off one of the bolts when you unbolt the coil pack. Once you get the coil pack out of the way it easier to get the plugs.

Use a long and short extension combination for the rear plugs (1,2,3). Once again you are working blind, but it is not hard at all.

You cannot use the sparkplug socket to put the plugs back in as the rubber inside will keep you from getting your socket out.

I use a rubber hose over a plug to drop the plug in and start the threading, then I use a regular 5/16th socket to tighten. Use some anti siege on the threads. Do not over tighten.

Pay close attention to the numbering on the coilpack. It is marked on the coilplug, otherwise you will screw up.

Put the coilpack back in. Remember the ground wire on the right, and some other gizmo on the left when placing the bolts back in.

Install the new wires. Trasnfer the wireloom from the old wires to the new wires (only if original wires, you mat not have a wire loom).

It is not so bad. Most of time is just fidling around with extensions.

I have replaced my water pump on my 2000 mpv (after only 4 years) and it was relatively simple. Whatever you do, do NOT bring it to the dealer as most dealers will charge upwards of $650 for what I did in about 2 hours of work in my driveway with a 10 mm wrench and a gasket scraper.

I am not sure how technical an answer you need but basically it is as easy as removing the serpentine belt (a picture of the routing is located under the hood for future reference), loosening the bolts that hold the pump into the housing, carefully removing the remainder of the gasket (I recommend buying a gasket tool which will prevent gouging the housing while removing the gasket) placing the new gasket on the new water pump and bolting the new pump on. Route the serpentine belt and check the top off the antifreeze. Start the engine and check for leaks.

My part (which was ridiculously simple, just a pulley, bearing and PLASTIC 'impeller') cost was $60 and I was refunded $10 when I brought the bad one in.

No, it is not hard. If your vehicle has a Automatic trans you will generally need a metric flare nut wrenches,drain pan, basic metric tools, antifreeze. Start by removing neg battery cable, remove any radiator decorative plastic covering if so equipped, then one end of lower hose, use a drain pan to catch fluid, remove connector for electric fan and remove fan, or remove fan clutch and fan,whichever you have,remove fan shroud if equipped, remove both rad hoses, using the flare nut wrenches remove atuomatic trans cooler lines is so equipped ( this is the hardest part if the lines are real tight- that is why these wrenches are needed) remove fasteners that hold rad in place. Reverse procedure, fill with coolant and keep cap off while it idles for 15 minutes to insure that all air is bled out. Done. I hope this helps you. Mark

There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.

Very likely its because of wear in the shift linkage. You may be able to adjust the linkage to compensate for the wear. If not, you have a more serious transmission problem.

The correct spark plug gap is 0.052 inch. Try to look for spark plug brands that fit the Mazda M.P.V. engine and already has the factory gap set near to this correct setting.

capacity: 19.8 Gallons

It has hydraulic lifters that are known to get noisy. Mazda sells a shim set that can be installed under each lifter to reduce clearance so that the lifters don't require as much pump-up travel. The lifters are located in the ends of the rocker arms, replacing or shimming them requires the removal of part of the intake plenum. You can also buy new lifters in the aftermarket for about $20. each, but there is 12 so it's not exactly cheap.

Short in the wiring or the device it powers.

Radio Noise Capacitor (RFI suppressor)

It is real easy....it is right next to the air filter box on the tube. It is held in place by 2 Phillips screws and one clip for the wire harness. Good luck finding one that fits though. Pepboys, Autozon and AdvanceAuto all have one, but the holes for the screws do not match up (been looking for one). The dealers have to special order them and they are $180.

R134a

nothing but take it to Mazda and there computer will reset it, 1hr shop rate..100$

probably a sensor isn't working

It is easy, just remove the panels, there is a screw behind the door latch and then some screws on the bottom of the panel in the carpet area. Then pop the panel out with a screw driver or chisel, softly. I put in new Pioneer Aramid speakers and it sounds almost as good as the BOSE in our Escalade. We have the XM radio in our 1994 MPV and love it.

Dexron III

On the stereo faceplate there are 4 holes near the four corners of the unit,there is a special tool that fits in there to remove them.

Basically the tool uses a straight section of wire poked in the hole to remove the spring loaded tab from behind the edge that holds the stereo in.

Four lengths of wire or 4 small screwdrivers in the holes approxiamely 6-8cm will wensure the tabs are unlocked and the stereo should just then pull out.

Ensure you have put the screw drivers in far enough as you wont need to force it to get it out.

Clogged radiator, bad water pump, stuck thermostat, non-functioning fan. and may I add lacking of fluids.

Mazda 626,1997,2.0L,A/T-CD4E.

When I drive on high way in 60-80km/h after 30km turn on the O/D OFF light.

In diagnostic center ckeched the next codes:

P1744 Solenoid TCC-open short

P0741 Torque con.clutch-abnormal.

What can I do.

P.S. the A/T master kit has been changes

It is located close to the fire wall on the drivers side of the engine compartment.

2WD Total Trailer Weight (Sum of weights of the trailer, its load, trailer hitch, vehicle passengers and what you have in the vehicle) is 4500 pounds. If you do not have the transmission cooler it is only rated for 2600 pounds. Suggest that you install a transmission cooler and carry the conventional spare tire.