Mazda Trucks

I have a 1999 Mazda b-3000 4x4 truck and the speedometer stop working. Are there fuses related to the speedometer that I can replace. If so where are the fuses located in the vehicle.

In the extended cab, it is located behind the jump seat on the passenger's side.

Perhaps, but could also be: Low coolant? Bad thermostat? Heater core airbound, plugged? Heater temperature control cable frozen? Water pump not circulating coolant?

Your dashboard lights suddenly not working is almost always your indication that your taillights are out. If the fuse for your taillights is blown and you replace it, your dash lights should be fine.

Typical valve lash is .008" between the lash adjuster and the valve tip. I like to run mine .007" on the intake and .008" on the exhaust.

Kyrasis6

Mazdatruckin.com

B2500 with extended cab is 19.5 gallons The B2500 without extended cab is less - I think it is 14 gallons or so.

no problem, you may have to change the motor mounts but its the same transmission...

Clutch safety switch =- should be on the top of the clutch pedal under dash area Neutral safety switch could be at the lower end of the gearshift handle or at the side of the transmission

Simple check is to ground the fuel sending wire at the fuel tank.If the gauge reads FULL then it is a bad fuel sending unit and you need to drop the fuel tank to replace it.If the gauge reads empty when you ground the wiring then it means you have a bad fuel gauge.I would lean strongly towards the sending unit be bad my 87 the gauge started reading about 1/4 tank less before it failed.

Yes

If you are talking about the stock Tachometer, the connectors are in the Large white connector block at the top rear of the instrument panel. If you are installing an after market tachometer, you should be able to tie into the same wiring harness.

Note: The dash is a Brick wall to get through. Don't try to Houdini your fingers up behind the dash. They may disappear forever, or you may have to call 911 to get unstuck. There ain't no way to get back there. Save yourself time and frustration. Take it apart.

There is no such item.

1-3-4-2

yes

Apparently nobody knows. I've looked through all of Google for this answer, including in a Mazda forum, and nowhere can I find this. I'm about to buy a Haynes manual so I don't ever have to deal with this again. Also, I'll come back and answer you when I find out.

Nick

I am having the same problem. Can't find help

Manual trans.

API GL-4 SAE75W90W or 80W90W gear oil

Differential

API GL-5 SAE 80W90W hypoid gear oil

Transfer case

API GL-4 or GL-5 SAE80W or 90W gear oil

The B2200 and B2000 should have at least 2 engine grounds. One runs from the negative battery terminal over to the side of the fender and then to the back of one of the starter bolts. The other should run from the firewall to the back of the cylinder head. It is recommended to clean these occationally to avoid starting or drivability problems.

Kyrasis6

Mazdatruckin.com

The IAT sensor is located inside the air intake duct between the air cleaner housing and the throttle body. - Haynes Manual #36071.

NO!! It is located on the right hand side with two bolts that hold it along with the brake line that ties into into it for fluid. To replace it if it is leaking(normal wear and tear) just disconnect the line and two bolts and install new slave.Now to bleed it make sure the clutch reservoir is full and have another person inside the truck to manually push the clutch pedal when u hook up a bleeder to flush the system of old fluid and air.First open the bleeder have the assistant push the clutch pedal and let the old fluid come thru the line and then close after a short period.Then refill the reservoir with new dot 3 or dot 4 fluid and repeat until there is NO air bubbles coming thru the clear bleeder line to the container it bleeds into.It takes several times of refilling the reservoir to obtain this.Make sure the bleeder container has a small amount of fluid in it about a inch or so before bleeding this helps with suction and reduces air going into the line.Should not take more than 30 minutes.You may have to adjust the pedal afterwards which can be adjusted at the pedal and should be about 8 and 1/4 inches from the center side of the pedal to the floor mat.Just loosen the lock nut on the pedal and then the nut against the pedal to obtain the measurement.I would buy a chiltons or haynes manual for reference it has pics and other info.Way too much for a simple question.Just figured yours is leaking and you would need to replace it anyway.

when the few gap used between the cam and pus rod in valve arrangement this gap is call tappet clearance .This clearance use in between the cam and pus rod ,because reduce the noise.

cause you farted on it

I want to tell you I am no certified machanic but I am a backyard mechanic. The first thing is to un hook the drive shaft,undo the clutch cable. Then bell housing then transmission mounts. Slide transmission out Pull out the disc the clutch plate and the throw out bearing. Get A pilot shaft when putting in the throw out bearing. To install reverse the procedure.

disconnect drive shaft at differential ...mark with chalk so it goes back the samedisconnect the intermediate drive shaft bearing supportslide out the drive shaft ...the yoke is splined and will pull out with the shaftdisconnect speed cable, two switches ...take off the shift boot then three screws then the stick shift will lift out...do it slowly there may be a spring or a shim or washerdisconnect the slave clutch cylinder ...2 boltsdisconnect the transmission support beam ...6 bolts nuts you must remove slide holders and spring holding the emergency cablesdisconnect all bell housing except a couple on the bottomYou have to remove an exhaust supportput a hydralic jack under the xmission to the front of the oil drain (I drained the xmission oil because I didn't know if it would run out the extension housing)Put a little tension on the jack (my engine did not need any support)remove the final bolts and slide the xmission backBallance it on the hydralic jack (it really can't fall it will lean against the floor tunnell)lower it slowly...down by the front since the extenxsion housing is on top of the corss member (it helps balance)move the bell housing under the fly wheel stuff and help the extenxion housing downremove the 6 pressure plate bolts ...don't drop the pressure plate and the disk

Go to Advance Auto and for $125 you get a pilot bearing, pressure plate clutch disk, release bearing, plastic alingment tool

I left the pilot bearing in ...it was still goodReplace the release bearing Replace the disk and pressure plate using the alingment tool 30 ftlbs for 6 bolts

if you need to replace the pilot bearing use a slide hammer if you have one or fill the hole with greese...get a bolt that just fits thru the pilot bearing hit it with a hammer and greese flys every where and maybe the release bearing came out.

replace everything....the hydralic clutch is self adjusting

It took me 5 hours to get it all apart And about the same to put it together...maybe 7 hours

Good Luck...its a perfect DIY job

Well assuming the carburetor is set properly idle wise with a meter and all the normal tune up things are in KNOWN good condition.My suggestion is clean the egr valve under the carburetor with carburetor cleaner and note the position of the gasket on it for reinstall purposes.When cleaning it use some sand paper or a small brush to remove the carbon buildup.It has one vacumm line,one electrical connector going to it with 3 ten millimeter bolts that hold it on.If the idle is still crappy I would suggest a new map sensor which is mounted on the passenger side fender with a vacumm line and electrical connector on it.And the tune items like plugs,wires,cap,rotor button and even the oxygen sensor are critical.Hope this gives you some insight into the issue.