Mazda Trucks

It is behind the passenger side kick panel!

1st is the battery showing at least 12.5 volts not running.Now with a multimeter you can check this.If the truck has a fully charged battery,and the alternator was good before the issue,next question is do you here a clicking sound when trying to start the truck.If you answered no click,the issue is probably the starter is bad,or the armeture inside is stuck.You can simple tap the starter with a flat head screw driver and hammer a couple times to free it inside.Then retry starting the truck.If the trk does not turn over or say click and the voltage is GOOD as above and the battery is fully charged then you need a new starter.Sometimes tapping the starter will make it engage and work but,if this happens it normally means the starter is dieing and replacement is a MUST.Now if the truck is turning over and not firing up and running I would look at checking the ohms on the coiland should be 1-1.3 ohms.And If the part is original probably needs to be replaced.It could also be the distributor cap,or rotor button are bad or the ignition module.There are too many things to list like bad plugs,or spark plug wires which would cause a no fire but,engine turns over problem.I would charge the battery for 24 hrs and do the checks above if it is a no crank at all,bc it could be your alternator may not be charging the battery enuff to start the engine to begin with and it should show at 12.0 volts to start as a minimum but most should show on average 12.3 volts with the trk turned off

Check the floats in the carb and the butterflies, make sure they care clean and working, change the fuel filter because a clogged one will not work, and check all plugs wires roter and cap

Driverside Valve cover I believe. In the back of it. I'm not sure about that year, but I think the Haynes manual said something about having to remove and replace an entire assembly, not just the pcv, to replace it. Sounds pretty dumb huh?

The PCV valve is at the back of the engine right on top right under where all your vacuum hoses connect. I replaced mine a while back and it was just a small plastic piece with a vacuum hose connected to it. It was really simple and took less than 5 minutes.

first things first go and get a "one man brake bleed kit" usualy a tube with a one way valve on the end.

now get under the car with with your new clutch slave.

undo the flange nut on the tube going to the cylinder and pull it off. have a plug of some sort ready to block it best you can

undo the bolt/bolts retaining the cylinder to the bell housing.

throw the old cylinder away. and bolt the new one onto the bell housing. making sure the pin sits snugly in the lever. connect the flange nut back on.

connect the "bleed kit" the bleed valve firmly (the little nipple thing with the 10mm nut) and then loosen the valve slightly.

in the engine bay take the lid off the clutch fluid reservoir and fill it up

the depress the clutch pedal a few times while looking under the car to see if the flange bolt is leaking on the new cylinder. continue to depress the pedal a few time making sure you keep topping up the fluid in the reservoir (if it gets too low you start sucking air into the lines)

now you just keep doing this until the bleed line has no bubbles in it.

tighten the valve back up and remove the bleed line.

check the reservoir is at the correct level and that the clutch travel is smooth and firm. if it isn't you still have air in the line so you will need to continue to bleed the air out by connecting the kit back up loosening the valve and pressing the pedal till no air is in the line and tightening the valve back up

never reuse old clutch or brake fluid

and never over tighten the valve

idle speed = 650 rpm. float (full open)to bowl floor clearance =1 mm. float (full closed) to bowl top = 8.5 mm. idle mix is adjusted with a vacuum guage to highest steady vaccum/highest steady rpm. fast idle opening angle = with cam on first step, butterfly clears bore by 1.4 mm. choke valve clearance = with fast idle cam on second step, butterfly clears bore by .55 mm. choke unloader - primary butterfly full open, choke butterfly clears bore by 2.25 mm. see discussion page for more on this.

Mazda named their truck models by engine size, so a B2300 is a 2.3 liter engine.

what lock cylinder?door or ignition? door is simple, remove inner door panel, unhook rods attached to lock cylinder, remove retaining clip

on the tranny

It could in on a cold day your car will use more gas to air (rich) because the cold air will support more gas! Your car will run like a dream if it is set up right on these days in computer cars a easy cheat for more preforance is to put ice on the intake so your computer thinks it is cold you will see guys at the drag race track doing this as fas as on thernost I would guess maybe it is the problem and a cheap way to try to fix is put one in what can it hurt but being a 86 it is probley a oxygen sensor that is at fault

to the right of the brake booster

You may want to reconsider. This will involve changing the steering column (for the shifter ) you will need a cooling core that goes in front of the radiater, the drive shaft will need changed (or at least the yoke) because they aren't the same. more work than it's worth.

It is behind the glove box.Just remove the glove box screws aproximately 11 and pull the assembly out.The air condition relay should be to the left hand side close to a dash crossmember support in plain view.It definetiley will be going towards the hvac controls.Takes 5 minutes to get to it tops.

2500 pounds

1. Remove the instrument cluster trim panel 2. Insert a radio removal tool available at most auto parts stores, or equivalent, into the radio face plate, push the tool inabout one inch to release the retaining clips on each side 3. Using the special tool, pull the radio partially out of the instrumant panel, then disconnect the pwer, speaker and antenna wires from the radio 4. Pull the radio assembly out of the instrument panel 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. - Haynes Manual #36071, 1993-2005 Ford Ranger Pick-ups and 1994-2005 Mazda B-Series Pick-ups.

First check the clutch fluid reservoir for fluid.Second if it is low get under the truck on the right hand side at the transmission and check the slave cylinder for leaking around the rubber boot on it.If it is low on fluid it probably is a BAD slave cylinder not engaging the throw out bearing and clutch.Typically a bad slave cylinder can cause several problems like the clutch pedal going to the floor and not coming back up,or not being able to shift into any gear but you can start the truck but it will not move.It also may be a BAD clutch master cylinder due to age or wear if the slave cylinder is not leaking I would recommend replacing the clutch master cylinder and auto zone sells the whole unti with a new reservoir for around 40.00 and you will need to bleed the system at the slave cylinder to remove the air in the system.I doubt the clutch is the problem it would have showed signs of slipping in gear or all gears long before the issue you have!In short check fluid level of clutch reservoir,slave cylinder for leaks and last resort replace the clutch master cylinder.I have experienced this and have owned my 1987 bseries since brand new 23 years!!!! I know this truck .

Would make sense, since both vehicles are close to being identical!!!!

the thermostat in a lil bit to the left of the power steering pump

Yes, all B2000 models until 89 where carbureted. After 89 Mazda stopped production in the United States on this model.

There is a slave cylinder on the transmission. Bleed it as you would the brakes. One man method. Get a container, cup, bottle,and put enough brake fluid in it to cover the end of a hose. open the bleeder screw and place the hose over it. Vacumn hose that fits and then just pump the clutch pedel. Slowly 3-4 pumps should do it, TIghten bleeder screw and you are done.

Mazda made a b2200 and b2600 truck in 1989.As for performance the engine is rated at 85hp or so and really just a mpg truck not a power house for dragging trailers or too much weight.The truck is great for general use,and driving and hauling resonable things in the bed with ease over all.

Yes, this is a fair credit score.

4.12 qts _oil pan capacity is 3.8 qts and oil filter capacity is 0.32 qts according to my owners manual

I have an identical vehicle and am not familiar with code 27; all diagnostic codes for this vehicle have a four-digit number and I have been unable to find a code 27 in my service and repair manual. Use an OBDII scanner to obtain the correct diagnostic code number.