Mazda Trucks

It is on the driver side just above the plastic kick panel at the floor and very close to the hood latch.Lay down and look up and to the left it is beside the door buzzer.They are side by side.EASY.

On a **1986** Toyota Pickup (Hopefully they are similar): Unhook the positive end of your battery from the rest of your truck's electrical with a wrench. Next, there is a plug on the back of the alternator, push in the clip on the side and unplug. Next to the plug us a rubber housing, pull this back and take the screw off, removing the wire cable it was holding. There are now only two bolts holding the alternator. The first one is up top and connects to a rail that guides the alternator left and right (to tighten the alternator belt) unscrew this. Next, remove the trucks skid plate up front, there should be 4 bolts holding it in place. Once this is done, take out the coolant hose (a 1' hose with a slight S-Bend in it, it may take some wiggling to get it off). Next remove the lower bolt from underneath the alternator and pull the alternator out from the bottom. Once you replace the alternator you need to tighten the belt, it needs to be about 80 +/- 20 lbf You may have to take your truck into a local shop to have them tighten the belt for you ($30 labor) if you don't have the right torque equipment.

It is a good habit to always disconnect the negative battery post first when you start the job and reconnect the negative battery post last when done with the job.

The electric fuel pump is inside the fuel tank

Yes, although you need a gas tank from a FI truck, and re-use your oil pan and pick-up.

The intake manifold needs to be flipped or custom made, and re-use your exhaust.

The engine wiring harness is easily seperated from the car and doesn't need much modifying to fit the truck.

If you have changed an EFI engine before this swap is fairly easy.

I would recommend removing the speedometer cable where it attaches on the left hand side of the transmission and cleaning it and greasing it.The cable is about 1/2 inch thick and you can see it where it comes thru the firewall (driver side) and goes along the frame rail (left hand side) to the transmission.Use some white lithium grease sold at napa,auto zone,advance auto and pack it in the cable end going to the transmission.Now if after doing this does not work you will need to remove the dash cluster,4 screws two on top and two underneath and four screws that actually hold the clear lens and gauges and remove the cable going to the speedometer itself and clean and grease as well.Note its a good idea if you have to do the speedometer gauge to leave the cable going the transmission off to give you some slack when taking it loose from the gauge.Hope this makes sense takes less than 30 minutes to do both ends of the cable connection if necessary.Normally the connection on the transmission is what is the issue.

The fuel pump for all Miatas up to 2005 is located in the fuel tank. You can access it by removing the carpet on the parcel shelf, the area where the soft top rests. You will find access to the fuel tank shield held by multiple 10mm bolts. Once that is removed, an oval-shaped cover can be found. The Fuel Pump is attached to this.

94 and up came with an "auto clutch" and in 94 they were a problem! I don't know if ford ever fixed this problem

if you look closely at the light, it looks like a car with a key in the middle of it. The light is a theft deterrant. Generally, it means that the stereo unit is bolted to the passenger airbag or something like that. It just lets any thieves no ahead of time that it is going to be very hard to get the stereo out. So the idea is, that they'll just leave it alone

Distributor has a center conductor that links to the coil via a wire the same size as your spark plug wires..

Sometimes putting a jug of transmission fluid in your oil will clean the junk out of your lifters and stop your noise - if it is an older vehicle with adjustable rockers you can adjust and get rid of the knock.

Well that depends on your engine and wether it is a long bed or short bed truck.Here are the specs 1986 long bed 14.6,short bed 15.6.1987 short bed 14.8, long bed 17.4 .These specs are the same for the other years except the 1986 is different. The 88 and above to 93 should be the exact same unless the truck has the b2600 engine where the specs are different long bed 17.2 and the short bed 14.6 gallons.This should be what you want to know the how many gallons of gasoline it holds.

The coolant temp sender that shows the gauge working temp is mounted below the upper radiator hose.It is mounted below close to the thermostat housing.It has a single wire terminal that slides on the connection.To replace is simple,drain coolant down enough so no fluid is in the upper hose,unless you plan a coolant flush(I recommend) unless your coolant is less than 3 yrs old.Now take terminal off,unscrew sender with a wrench.I suggest using some permatex high temp thread sealant(sold at auto zone,advance,napa) in a white tube.Place a small amount on the threads of the new sender and install snug,do not over tighten.Connect electrical plug,refill coolant system,and bleed air off,with truck at idle temp selector on heat,fan hi for 15-20 leave radiator cap off until coolant starts to bubble over then put radiator cap on.You might consider replacing your thermostat at this time as well and use a new gasket.If your hoses are over 4 years old replace those too being winter is coming,and are prone to failure on temp change hot,to cold either way.

Yes

If it is mechanical the diaphragm has a hole in it.

Is right between the back seats, in the wall, in a nice hidden niche!

Sorin F.

6x5.5"

From Haynes Repair Manual #36071, Ford Ranger Pickups 1993 - 2005 and Mazda Pickups 1994-2005 B2300, B2500, B3000, B4000: (1)Disarm the airbag system; (2)allow the cooling system to completely cool down; (3)using a thick cloth for protection, turn the radiator filler cap to the first stop; (4)step back and let the pressure release; (5)once the pressure has been released, completely drain the cooling system; (6) working within the engine compartment, loosen the clam,ps on the heater hoses at the engine compartment side of the firewall, twist the hoses and carefully sepseparate them from the heater core tubes; (7)plug or cap the heater core tubes to prevent coolant from spilling into the passenger compartment when the heater core is removed; (8)place a plastic sheet on the floor of the vehicle to prevent stains if the coolant spills; (9)remove the instrument panel; (10)remove the PCM heat sink and ground strap; (11)remove the heater plenum chamber; (12)separate the heater core from the heater plenum chamber; (13)installation is the reverse of the removal with the following additions; (a)fill the cooling system; (b)run the engine, check for leaks and test the heater.

If a quality storm door with insulated glass in properly installed it can provide pretty good insulating properties.

As a general rue storm doors don't have the same energy efficiency as a good exterior door even if it as some insulation inside it.

Of course it matters how well your exterior door keeps out the cold.

it could have a bad speed sensor

it connects to any positive(hot wire) terminal controlled by key.

Sounds like it is time for new brake pads, you should take it in and and have them replaced before you damage your rotors.

I think

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Most likely you have a caliper that is not releasing. I am replacing both calipers and pads tomorrow on my 1997 B2300 SE. My right caliper would squeal until I touched the break pedal but start squealing again. I drove it this way for 6 mos. till the pads were gone.

One reason a 1995 Honda Civic might sputter and cough while accelerating during normal driving is because of a bad coil. Another reason could be a bad fuel pump or fuel filter. Still another reason could be a bad oxygen sensor.

I have a 1999 Mazda b-3000 4x4 truck and the speedometer stop working. Are there fuses related to the speedometer that I can replace. If so where are the fuses located in the vehicle.