Mercury Villager

The CV joints on a 1993 Mercury Villager can be replaced by removing the front tires and the brake caliber. Next, the rotor, tie rod, and bottom ball joint must be removed. Then, a pry bar can be sued to pry the CV joint away from its housing.

Not necessary on this vehicle.

The ECM is mounted on the center of the firewall behind the dash. It requires removal of most of the dash panel to replace. 'Ya think maybe they didn't want anybody to mess with it?

There is a switch on the main A/C control console, which allows the air to be directed its entire flow into the front. When pushing the switch to the right,

the flow is divided between front and back, then the back side controls are enable to work.

With a spark plug socket and socket wrenches and extensions.

Where is the orifice tube on a 95 mercury villager

I am posting this for a 1993 Mercury Villager WITH rear AC.

The orifice tube on a 1993 Mercury Villager WITH rear AC, is located under the van, on the driver's side, directly under the rear of the drivers seat.

Jack up the van on the Driver's side. Put jack stands under the car for safety.

Under the car, you will see multiple large AC hoses running from the front passenger side, to the rear drivers side on the bottom of the frame.

Two hoses go up into the car from underneath on the driver's side. They go into the van just about where the seat directly behind the driver would be located (they go into the rear AC control panel).

Both hoses have a snap ring connection that you can identify. The smaller hose (high pressure) will have another snap ring type connection about 6 inches from where it goes into the car from underneath. Unsnap that metal piece (the short one with two connections). You can now remove the metal piece which looks like a "J" about 7 inches long. There are two bolts that hold the hoses in place and a bracket, it is easier if you remove the two bolts to take some tension off the hose. This is all done from underneath the car.

The long part of the "J" will have a crimp about 4" down from the opening.

Look down into that side of the metal tube and you will see the orifice tab which is located about 2 inches into the tube. You will need a pair of long needle nose pliars to pull out the orifice. Be sure and clean the inside of the tube that holds the orifice, with AC cleaning solution before replacing the orifice. An indicator of a clogged orifice will be AC oil pouring out of the tube that goes into the car. a blocked orifice will stop oil from circulating back to the compressor and will destroy the compressor.

The parts listing shows ONE orifice, so that should be the only one. Apparently the cold gas must go through the rear AC evaporator before it goes through the front one, and then back to the compressor suction.

This ONLY applies to 1993 Mercury Villager WITH rear AC. If you do not have rear AC - this does not apply to your Villager.

Is it asking TOO MUCH that car companies add to the R134 capacity sticker on the inside of the engine ccompartment that also says "orifice tube location"and then tells you where it is located? This is not the first time I have looked for a day or more for the orifice tube and IT HAS ALWAYS BEEN A FORD.

This only applies to 1993 Mercury Villager with REAR AC.

The orifice tube is located under the car, on the driver's side, directly under the rear AC control panel. Looking under the car, you will see two AC hoses going up into the passenger compartment on the driver's side. The smaller hose will have another snap fitting about 6 inches down from where that hose snaps next to the other hose.

MAKE SURE THE SYSTEM HAS NO GAS IN IT.

Remove two bolts that help hold the two hoses to the frame ( in plain sight).

Using the snap fitting tool, unsnap the top of the smaller hose, turn the metal tube, then unsnap the next connection (a type of splice into the tube) and pull the entire metal tube out for easy access to the orifice tube. In the metal tube (about 7" long shaped like a "J". There is a crimp on the longest part. Look down into the hole on the side with the crimp, you will see the orifice tube. It is WAY down in there and hard to get to. You will need a special tool. Craftsman makes a special needle nose pliar ( part number 9 45661) that is really long and thin, and you can remove the tube with those instead of buying the expensive tool. They cost $9.00 and of course come with lifetime warranty.

The FRONT is controlled by an expansion valve block which you see behind the accumulator in the engine compartment in plain site with hoses going in and coming out.

The orifice valve is what gets clogged, the expansion valves are usually fine.

Hope that helps.

you may have wires crossed if some one has installed a new radio system recentley My Villager did this a couple of years ago. After countless hours in the shop it ended up being the rear taillight. The lead contacts on the bulbs were touching one another and shorting the system.

The vehicle speed sensor is at the top rear corner of the transmission housing.

In the relay box in the engine compartment with the other relays.

Cut it out and weld a new one in.

As there are several different radio combinations for the Villager, you would have to refer to the owner's manual. If you do not still have an owner's manual, go to http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/120189/article.html

Enter the information asked for in the pull downs. Most are free to view as PDF files while some request a fee.

1 Remove the plug on the oil pan with a wrench and drain the oil into a drain pan. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place a support jack under the crankshaft pulley.

2 Remove the support bolts on the front and rear engine mounts, along with the hold-down brackets on the two rear refrigerant/heater pipes.

3 Disconnect the front and rear transaxle bolts and the brace holding the transaxle to the engine. Unhook the connector on the oil level sensor.

4 Loosen the bolts on the oil pan, working from the outside towards the center. Remove the pan and scrape away the old seal with a paint scraper. Make sure that all the parts are clean, and that the old gasket seal has been completely removed.

5 Put a new gasket in place and seal it with silicone sealer. Replace the oil pan and tighten the bolts in sequence, starting with the inner bolts and working out.

6 Replace the connector on the oil level sensor, the front and rear transaxle braces, the exhaust inlet pipe, the crossmember bolts and crossmember, and the front and rear engine support through-bolts.

7 Slide out the support jack and lower the vehicle. Fill the engine with clean oil. Mercury recommends that the optimum oil for the Villager is SAE 5W-30.

You probably have an air lock in the pump. You need to take the pump apart and assenble the veins with vasoline so it will prime itself. GoodluckJoe

Probably not. The body style was changed in 1999, and even though they look almost the same, the dimensions for many things are different.

The same way you remove the one on the passenger's side. Now that wasn't nice. First look at the top of the knuckle at the mounting post. You should see a small tab sticking out the bottom of the wiper arm. Lift up on the arm while pulling out on the tab. Once the tab comes out far enough to hold the wiper arm up without your help, the whole assembly can be wiggled off the post. Look carefully at the inside of the wiper arm knuckle and you will see that there is a locator spline which needs to line up with its corresponding slot in the post when it is reassembled. And, no, older was not better in this case. They were much more difficult to remove. It required a special tool and all the proper words! ; )

The crankshaft position sensor is at the rear of the engine where it joins with the transmission bellhousing. It is at the left (front) side, not far from the starter.

There is no need to do this normally.

He came in at 12:00am and said where are my students?

Top rear of engine directly under the air intake tube/throttle body.

The timing belt is installed by aligning the marks on the pulleys and the belts. THey must be exact.

Remove the two screws in the top of the bezel plate in front of the speedometer housing. There are two snap in grommets at the bottom of the same bezel. These pull out kind of hard but by pulling straight out one side and then the other side worked well for me. You'll need to unplug the headlight & cruise control switches on the left side and may have to unplug the rear wiper, rear heater, and flasher switches on the right side but I didn't have too as my wires were long enough to place the bezel over to the side hanging on the right side wires mentioned. You'll have to drop the steering column to its lowest point and you'll have to pull the transmission selector down into 1st geat to get everything below the bezel to remove. There are four screws that hold the soeedometer housing in place and need to be removed after getting the bezel out of the way. Slowly pull the speedometer housing outward and rotate the housing from the left side so you can access the back side of the housing. The bulbs are in 1/4 turn black sockets at various locations on the backside circuit board. Twist CCW to remove and CW to put back in after the bulb has been changed. Replace one at a time unless you know exactly which ones have been removed as there are several style speedometer layouts on the Villager's. I used instrument lamp #168 but I believe a #161 and a #194 bulb will work also. Reverse the steps to re-install everything. Make sure to plug back in a the switches you unplugged and check to make sure the right side switches are tight even if you didn't unplug them. Should be about a 1/2 hour job start to finish if you have the bulbs.

sometimes you can pull up on the coushion and see 2 bolts one on each side some have plastic clips on each side pull them and it will release the seat the hardest ones are when you have to sit in the seat do this on each side, sit down and as hard as you can push back and pull up at the same time. good luck

As you're facing the rear of the van, follow the upper, left radiator hose towards the back of the van. On the left side of the engine (passenger) that hose will come to a fitting. Follow the hose coming out of that fitting aft and down. It will curl back towards you. That hose goes into the thermostat housing. Disconnect both hoses and remove the first, upper radiator hose. I got about a 1/2 gallon of anti-freeze in a bucket when it's all taken apart. You'll see four bolt heads, two upper and two lower that go into the housing towards the driver's side of the engine. Take those four bolts out (tight fit but can be done with a 3/8" ratchet and 1" extension) with a 12mm socket. There is no gasket on the thermostat housing. It's sealed with high temp RTV. Once the four bolts were out, it took a good smack with a fiber drift and a deadblow hammer to unseat the factory sealant. The following site has a good picture of the whole thing. http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1g/bl721g.htm

The best way to check for an exhaust leak is to hold a rag over the end of the exahust, with the car running on idle, and check for any smoke coming out from the rest of the exhaust system. If so it is likely that a hole has been created by rust eating away at the sysem; you will probably need to replace parts of the system in such a case.

The speed sensor is at the top rear corner of the transmission housing. It's a long reach from the top. There is one screw holding it down.