Oldsmobile LSS

The firing order for a 1997 Oldsmobile 88, which typically has a 3.8L V6 engine, is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The cylinder numbering starts from the front of the engine on the driver's side, with cylinders 1, 3, and 5 on the left and 2, 4, and 6 on the right. This order is important for proper engine operation and performance.

Rear of engine, underneath the exhaust manifold. you can follow the coolant line (approx. 2") tha runs underneath your engine, then runs up the back of the engine, up to the thermostat.

Had the exact problem with my '95 LSS. It has to do with the heater resistor (I have completely forgotten what it is called). In any event, remove the black plastic cover over the fuses located at the top of the firewall in the engine compartment. You will also have to remove two bolts holding the plastic bracket surrounding the fuses and pull it forward so you can work in the area located directly under it. There you will see three screws holding a horizontal cover. Remove those screws. It is possible your fuel line will be in the way of the cover's removal, but it's only held in place by a plastic piece pushed on to a stud. You can pry it off the stud and this will allow some give on the fuel line. Pull up and out on the cover and notice you have removed an aluminum "grille" looking piece. This is your culprit. Get another one from a junkyard, as a new one is cost prohibitive. Put the replacement in and reverse everything. That'll take care of your constantly running fan. For some reason, OLDS has the fan motor hooked up directly to constant power. Aggravating.

On the '98 the fuel pump relay is in position "N" on the fuse block behind the right,(passenger), kick panel. This fuse block is accessed by moving the kick panel or the long cover under the dash. There is also a 20A fuse located in position 6 of the same block which protects the relay. Check the fuse FIRST!

Also, be aware that the ignition control module is drawing from the same fuse. If the fuse is blowing repeatedly, check the ignition as well as the fuel pump circuit.

Yes! My Olds did have a wet rear floor I went to have it checked out to find out where the water was coming in from and there was a large hole under the car where water was coming in when I would drive. It costed me like $150 to get it repaired

Unfortunately, for most of us the solution is a bit uglier….. It seems that GM used that same particular body style quite extensively and not only for several different models but years as well. If you were fortunate enough to have found a simple hole in your floor board then Kuddo's to you, you're very fortunate. I too have had this problem along with several of my customers who also own a GM product within the parameters.

There is another problem and here's what I've found. I have a 1996 Olds LSS that I had bought used about 4 years ago. A year after we first owned it, the carpet in the rear foot wells (especially on the passenger side) had become noticeably damp. As winter progressed, the foot wells had started to collect a very annoying amount of standing water and would freeze. The car did not have to be driven (as this is a second car) in order to collect amounts of water, it only had to rain or snow melt!

I exhausted my imagination trying to correct this problem. Failed procedures like adding additional door seals and weather stripping, extensive caulking and butyl sealant; I re-directed the cab venting (body vents) and even used urethane sealant in the body seam over the passenger compartment. No matter what I tried seemed to be in vane and the water came in bad enough during a heavy storm one night that the airbag computer (located under the driver's seat) was eventually ruined. During the worst of this, the climatron system had not only failed, it was activating itself while no one was in the car making winter even more miserable knowing that the battery will probably be dead when it's time to go. I was seriously thinking about taking it to a junkyard when I called my brother one evening and he suggested that I bring the car over and we'll take it apart as much as we can and go from there.

The electrical problem was a simple bypass of a derelict hidden relay; we are both highly efficient electricians. The real task was finding out where the water was coming from. With the interior completely dismantled and the water extracted, we still could not find a point of entry. While I was looking diligently under the hood at every inch of seal and the numerous deflection shields and devices, I remembered a similar problem that I had with an Aerostar van that I used to have. The fresh air collector box in the cowl had a molded rubber hose that carried off water to let it drain down the firewall, when the hose became brittle and fell off, I didn't realize that it drained directly onto the cap for the power steering pump and the cap was vented. Needless to say, that was an expensive oversight!

So, where are the fresh air collector box drains on this Olds? Can't tell you myself. The fresh air boxes are over the firewall (over the foot area) and there are no visible drains or hoses to be found. What I did find was with the carpet, seating, thresholds, pillar casings and everything else out of the way, when we poured water into the air boxes the water ran straight down the body seam under the door thresholds. When enough water collected at the rear of the seam located at the rear of the passenger door, the water overflowed into the rear foot wells.

This may have not been the correct solution but it's working out so far. We drilled ¼" holes along the body seam (being careful not to damage fuel lines, brake lines and wiring) about every 10 inches. We also drilled holes in the floor pan in places that shouldn't promote collecting and more water. To date, the carpet may get damp after a downpour but there has not been standing water in the rear since. For what it's worth!

Doug

The Ford 3.8 liter firing order is ( 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3 - 6 )

The distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE

The engine cylinders / spark plug locations are numbered :

firewall

3 - 6

2 - 5

1 - 4

front

Its usually around 185 to 195 Fahrenheit

The Owner's Manual and Operating Instruction for the 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora is offered on Manual Owl as a PDF. The website provides product manuals free.

the 1994 oldsmobile lss has both the computer controlls the govenor

The primary (under dash over driver' feet) comes down fairly easy, I don't remember if there are any screws, I think most of it is a matter of getting the plastic clips to release. There's just enough play in the wire harness to allow it to drop for a slightly better view. There is how ever a secondary fuse/relay panel that's no where's near as congenial, this one took me several hours to locate. It's located on the passenger side against the front door pillar, between the heater core and the inner fender support (while still inside of the cab), behind some other obstructions. Without further disemboweling my car, if you close your right eye and squint the other, you might faintly be able to recognize the shapes and silhouettes of fuses and relays with the help of a small powerful flashlight. Trust me, it's there and should you find it you will truly know the location of B.F.Egypt.

God only knows who the demented SOB was that thought it was a good idea to stuff that turkey in there and I'm not exactly sure just how you should approach reaching it let alone being able to trouble shoot it. I do know however (This is a hint for further references) that the part of the circuits controlling the accy. and accy./run circuits are located there along with the control circuitry for the climatron comfort control circuitry. Part of the accy. / run circuit that feeds the climatron control (stuck relay) failed in my LSS last winter causing the heat system to activate even when the key was not present. You can imagine having a dead battery every time you go out in sub zero weather! Fortunately you can also the control for that circuit from the primary fuse panel by installing a relay on the back side of the panel. By interrupting the Accy. circuit fuse with a relay and keying it with the ignition (or run) fuse, you can control the circuit safely and should the defective relay start to work on it's own, the circuit will still operate correctly.

Good Luck,

Doug

yes i have some on mineype your answer here...

6.5 seconds, on a bad day....with a nice cold air intake and high flow exhaust.. 5.8

theres a Allen wrench plug port to the right of the pulley on the cone going towards the block ,remove it the oil should be to the bottom of the threads if not add.to replace you need a turkey baster or syringe to remove old oil. hope this helps

Could be a relay that's stuck opened...

Be sure its the Dayrunners...and not the Auto Light feature, which most 88's have a turn switch for timing, which keeps the lights on for certain duration, even after the car has been shut off and locked. This switch is located right near the Master Switch for the head lights, right above your dome light switch.

WOW! If the heater fan relay is in the same place on a 95 that it is on a 96, your gonna have fun getting to it! Trust me on this one, GM's strong point has never been wiring let alone, how they accomplished tie deed.

If your looking for the heater relay, I'm assuming that you've already found the power distribution block and relay distribution centers located separately in the engine compartment and you've also located the power distribution center (smaller fuse panel) in the drivers area to no avail. Unfortunately, there is another power distribution and relay center that is hidden in the passenger area, when I say it's hidden, I'm not even joking. It's located between the heater core box and outside fender skin and just behind passenger side hinge post. I don't remember if you will be able to see it by removing the glove box or if you have to remove the many under skirting panels and dress parts to get a glimpse at it, either way, it's nearly impossible to reach let alone, trouble shoot or repair and may God help you if any of the several relays or fuses need repaired or replaced. This is no exaggeration, if you do manage to get a look at it, it'll be the only daylight this thing has been exposed to since it was stuffed into the hole that was built around it.

The heater relay that you're looking for is not just another simple relay, its part of an intricate circuitry known as you climate control system. If by chance you are looking for this relay because your heater unrepentantly comes on by itself even while the key is not in the ignition, you may be in luck. If this is the problem that your experiencing, check to see if the display is also coming for you climate control and temp display. If it is then your problem is not the relay, it's the accessory power distribution center relay which I suspect may also be located in the dreaded "hidden panel".

What I did was this and it works great! I dropped the fuse panel on the drivers side, clipped the wire that was powering the accessory center and climate control. I then added a micro relay (a Bosch relay will also work) across the open wire to bridge the circuit and used the ignition fuse to key the relay. This way the original power source for the hidden panel is still in tact and yet the switching source is now controlled by the redundant source that you just added.

According to the Chilton manual, there is a relay center located under the right side of the instrument cluster. It is described as location "H" which is (looking at the panel as if the fuses are located at the bottom of the panel, the third from the bottom In the right column.

Wish I could verify that personally for you but I sold my olds a couple of months ago and quite frankly, don't remember seeing such a critter and I had that thing tore apart extensively when repairing my failed "climatron control". There is how ever another relay and power distribution panel located ender the extreme right end of the dash (I described it in an earlier question concerning the climate control failure) an jammed between the heater core box and behind the passenger door post. Lord help you if you need to get to it, it's an act of congress to even sneak a peek at it. It's possible that your fuel pump relay may be in this area but I'd check everything else first leaving the least as a last ditch effort.

What I have done out of disparity on a couple of older Caddy STS"s was to add an extra relay under the hood (under the power distribution box cover the wires you need are there as well as the room) which allowed me to bypass the OEM relay that we could never find. You will need an accurate schematic but all the wires are there that you will need to be able to make it function exactly as he original is supposed to. There should be the same wires available in the under hood fuse panel located on the upper passenger firewall area. Hope the was some help, Good Luck!

Have you tried looking on your keychain?

If you've lost the keys, your dealer can probably have a set made.

body control modual. $140 from dealer. common problem among gm's

Right where the intake hose attaches to the engine, between the bellowed tube and the intake manifold thing.

fuel pump getting wore out