Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight

I had it happen on my 2006 with climate control when it was new and under warranty. There are two electric actuator motors in your hvac system.. which in my case necessitated removal of the two front seats, the center console, the entire dash panel and pretty much everything in the dash, to get at. The one on the right is particularly buried, and the one on the left, didn't require much time or effort to fix at all. My problem was intermittent.. if you switched driver's side to hot, and the passenger's to cool, and then adjusted one or the other, something wouldn't work right and I had heat on one side and cold on the other until I cycled my key once or twice.. and then it would all of a sudden adjust.. and stay stuck in the new position it was, even if you adjusted it again. So the bottom line is, these actuator "doors" are actually electric motor controlled "doors" inside your dash, that, if faulty, will give you the symptoms that you're describing. I assume that particular design hadn't changed much from 03 to 06.. and I'd imagine would be very similar whether you're using the electronic climate control module, which mine has, or the resistive model, which is only two slide swithches. Gm's technical description to me at the dealer, and on the repair invoice (paid through warranty) was "actuator motor, right hand side" and "actuator motor, left hand side"

If you go towww.autovalue.com and look up the belt for your car, you can click on the first line in the parts list and get a routing illustration to print off.

On the firewall, just about in the center, you'll see a large, black, plastic cover that says soemthing like "Maxi Fuse and Relay Center", or something like that. The cover is easy to pry off. Then you'll see several large fuses and the black relays. I forget which one is the relay for the A/C. I telephoned my mechanic, and by describing the colors of the wires on the back of the relay, we were able to figure out which one it was. Unfortunately, they weren't labeled. I must tell you that my Olds is a 1991, but I think yours is probably the same. I replaced my relay for less than $8 and it fixed my A/C. Good luck!

may need a tune up. check the timing. have the fuel pmp checked and the fuel filter

4 q without filter change - 5q with. From the manual.

I had to remove my drivers side door panel on a 1996 Olds 88 about 3 weeks ago. Remove the screws (2) from the inside center of the door. Slide out the plastic box that the screws were removed from. Lift the entire panel straght up from the bottom. If you have difficulty lifting the panel you can pull out on the lower back portion of the panel and expose the panel holder(s). These are two pieces of plastic. The piece that attaches to the door is a "press-in" that looks like a large screw with an exposed plastic disk. The piece on the door panel is a "receiver" that has an opening that the disk of the "press-in" slides into from the bottom. Forcing the panel away from the door will probably not break these, but lifting the panel up off of these holders is the preferred method. The are about 6-8 of these panel holders at different locations along the edges of the door.

HTH

Good luck.

Push the rotary fan switch in to activate the system, the selected temperature will be shown in the LCD display to the right of the fan switch. The toggle switches directly below the LCD display raise and lower the selected temperature (blue for cooler & red for warmer) then select the desired vents from the illustrated push buttons, they will show a red LED light when active. OR select the desired temperature and simply push the "Auto" button and it will automatically adjust vents and fan speed as necessary to maintain your preset temperature

1st or 2nd from the left

Most automobiles will not start with a nonfunctioning coil pack. The coil pack will cause the spark plugs not to fire.

i own a 90 olds 98 it had the same problem u have to take the bottom part of the dash off and check for any vacume leaks

on the sticker under the hood

it's a relay underhood, on fire wall, second from left

depends on the model. Is it a delta 88, or an achieva, or what!

on the right side near the glove compartment theres a small box HVAC programmer for the compressor disconnect it and connect it again and it should. If the fuse is okay and relay okay compressor okay then do the above instructions

DEPENDS ON WHAT MOTOR YOU HAVE,BUT IF ITS A 3800 ITS RIGHT BEHIND THE BALANCER.MUST REMOVE THE BALANCER, THAN UNBOLT SENSOR BE SURE THAT WHEN YOU INSTALL IT... THAT THE RING ON THE BALANCER DOES NOT HIT THE SENSOR OUR YOU WILL BE DOING IT AGAIN.

I got stuck at the harmonic balancer because on my 1996 98 regency elite it seems you have to take the engine mount bracket off because, one of the arms to the bracket is secured over the top of the sensor to the engine block maybe this will help someone avoid alot of work they might not be able to handle lol

I need a belt diagram to an 1984 Oldsmobile 98 5.0 size motor

Noyou don't. I just changed my water pump in a 91 olds 98 3.8 liter. This is the way I did it. Put car on ramps or jacks stands. There is two bolts under the motor mount that you need to loosen but not take out. Then jack the engine up to the bar that goes across. Then take out the bolts that hold the motor mount on the top. Once you hav e done this then remove the belt. There are three bolts that hold the bracket, Take them off. Oh, i forgot there is a bolt that goes through the motor mount take it ot before you take the bolts out on top that hold the motor mount. Once you get the bracket off then the water pump is exposed for your taking. You will have to put the belt back on to loosen the bolts that hold the pully. that is pretty much it. Make sure you use something to lube the bolts because mine were rusted and din't want to losen especially the bottom to bolts that hold the motor mount. once I got the bracket off it only took 15 min. to take off clean and put other one back on. It is not hard but it saved me $150 to do it myself. Part was only &25 lifetime warranty. have fun. if you need further help you can send me an email at nphantom66@yahoo.com

If it is a rivet, then you must drill the old rivet out.

It depends on the year. It is not a fun job with the engine in the mpv. For a 95 You have to remove everything down to and including the timing chain cover. You will need gaskets for water pump, timing chain cover. If you have a plastic lower intake threaded fitting get a metal one. You will have to have a special puller and remove the harmonic balancer. I used a wrench to lock the balancer to the frame bolt so I could remove it. Be careful not to damage the oil and crank and cam sensors. The have to come off too. You will need to drain the antifreeze. The power steering pump and idler is a pain to remove. You would be best to remove the upper intake and replace those gaskets too. Take pictures of everything you take apart because each one is different. Make sure to get the idler and how it is installed. It is a pain.

torquing the bolts on the timing cover is important. Replace the water pump since you are there. I bought a book, but it was not much help. Put a new seal in the timing cover. After that you can get to the timing chain. If it is broke the engine is junk. You will have valve/piston contact in that case.

Hope this helps.

Timing chains on a 3800s do not go bad. The older 3.8s do.

You probably need a new electronic resister module. The module is located in the blower/heater box. To access it you will need to remove the maxifuse center (the same power strip that holds the relay you removed). Don't panic - its only retained by three nuts.

Keep in mind that another component could have caused the resister module to go bad. Be prepared to purchase a new blower motor at the same time.

if the thermostate is stuck open it wont allow the coolant to reach a certain temp. which could cause the heat to not work to well.

it could be either or if its R-12 it needs to be converted

It is a dummy code. You may have any number of problems, but none serious. A failed oxygen sensor, low A/C refrigerant, high water temp, leaking vacuum line, or somewhat more problematic-poor fuel delivery. You can have much more difficult mechanical issues, such as a bad crankshaft sensor, failing A/C compressor, among other things which require more than the average tinkering. Or, as in my case, it was simply a leak in the throttle body gasket. Hope this helps.

remove door panel. disconect electrical connections and unbolt the mirror using a 10mm socket

You must turn off the pump, open a faucet and let the water run until all pressure is gone. The Air Control unscrews from the tank in a counter clockwise direction. You will need a good sized pipe wrench, it will be tight.