Plymouth Voyager

Remove transmission oil pan for access to filter. Replace pan gasket, fluid and filter

7900lbs

By banging things.

Trouble code P0750 means: A/T Low/Reverse Solenoid Circuit Failure Trouble code P1768 means: Relay always off (relays are stuck open)

The factory set the light to come on when they you could drive 20 miles and not starve the fuel pump for fuel. When the level gets to the light any thing below that could over heat and damage the pump. now if it comes on at quarter take or more have it looked at.

Try this URL;

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/10/cb/1f/0900823d8010cb1f.jsp

In good condition, about $1,100.00

It is computer controled and not adjustable.

There are two oxygen sensors one is called the upstream oxygen sensor located in the exhaust manifold and one downstream directly behind the catalytic converter. I think the one you are looking for is mounted in the exhaust manifold sometimes referred to as bank 1 and sensor 1 being the first in the exhaust system. Hope this helps you.

Pull wheel(s), remove caliper & support w/wire to protect brake hose. Pop center cap rotor. Pull cotter pin off of castle nut with needle nose. Remove castle nut. Pull rotor towards you. Wheel bearing(s) inside. You may have 1 or 2 & they are tapered just like spindle. Replace both if there are 2. If you have 2, 1 will be smaller-note orientation. There is a seal on back of rotor. If you are careful can reuse. Pack new bearing(s) with wheel bearing grease. You can get a store bought packer that works with a grease gun or can do by hand. You just need to fully penetrate races with no air pockets. Reverse to assemble. Note torque on castle nut is LOW (hence the cotter) Don't overdo or will fry new bearings. Typically is 8-12#. Check for your vehicle. You may have to crack brake line to spread the pads enough to slip caliper back on. If so just bleed out the air after.

To pack bearings by hand-Just put a blob of grease on your palm & scrape off with bearing as you turn. You can see this elsewhere on line.

We get this from time to time. Usually you can get to the mechanism unless it has a guard over it. Then you have to have patience and luck. Find the cable where it comes out to the grill and try to disconnect the cable jacket from where it is held onto the latch. Then pull the whole cable, inside and out, together as a unit. Don't let the inner core move independently from the outer sheath. The idea is to grab the whole cable and pull on it and the latch should open. You have to disconnect the outer sheath from where it is attached to the latch for this to work. Sometimes you can remove the grill and see where the latch bolts on. Then remove the bolts and the hood and latch will come up as an assembly. Then you can unlatch the hood from the latch once everything is out in the open and visible.

"IN my case the cable actually came out of the latch. So I could pull on that sucker till the cows came home, but it wasn't gong to help. I just removed the front grill plastic. Four little torx head screws and then I unlatched it with a screw driver. Took about 20 minutes."

That answer worked perfectly! Then I cut away the plastic shroud inside the car around the broken lever and removed the lever mounting bracket (three hex head screws) with a socket and ratchet. Then exposed a couple of inches of cable by cutting away the wire reinforced plastic sleeve. Then clamped an inexpensive pair of locking pliers to the bare cable such that it would not only be handy for releasing the latch in the future, but also to serve as a weight to prevent any slack in the cable from causing the other end to jump out of the hood latch again. Also, make sure that the rubber grommet is still properly seated in the firewall hole to keep dangerous fumes from entering the passenger space. It is easily accessed from the inside.

11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.

12 Battery or computer recently disconnected

13* MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working

14* MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V

15 No speed/distance sensor signal

16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running

17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)

17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit

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21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor

22* Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing

23* Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad

24* Throttle position sensor over 4.96V (SEE NOTE #3)

25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found

26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) (SEE NOTE #4 BELOW)

27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)

OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right

OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right

OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding

- check computer, connections

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31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver

32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit

32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve

32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical

33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)

34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open

34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open

35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted

35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections

36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted

36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)

36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short

37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed

OR

part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)

OR

solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV)

OR

Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on; see NOTE 2)

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41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted

42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted

42 Fuel pump relay control circuit

42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles

OR

42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (SEE NOTE #6)

43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time

OR

43 Cylinder misfire

OR

43 Problem in power module to logic module interface

44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board

OR

44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem

OR

44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)

45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)

46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low

47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low

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51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (Bob Lincoln wrote: may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition, and the O2 sensor trying to compensate. The O2 sensor may still be good. The MAP assembly consists of two pieces, the valve and the vacuum transducer (round plastic unit with cylinder on top and both electrical and vacuum connections) - If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. [Webmaster note: MAP sensors seem to die regularly.]

OR

51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).

52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position (SEE NOTE #5!)

OR

52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)

53 Logic module internal problem

54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)

OR

54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7)

55 End of codes

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61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted

62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM

62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored

63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM

64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure

65 Power steering switch failure

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88 Start of test (not usually given, don't expect it)

Footnotes

NOTE #1.The power module has an air-cooled resistor which senses incoming air temperature. The logic modules uses this information to control the field current in the alternator. This code applies ONLY to alternators whose voltage is computer regulated. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing.

NOTE #2.From the 1995 TRUCK manuals: the trailer towing package includes a transmission coolant temp sensor while the standard package doesn't. This may cause the low (no) voltage indication. -

NOTE #3.The throttle position circuit tells the computer how far the accelerator is depressed. The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is on the throttle body on the opposite side of the throttle cable. The connector should have a round rubber cover over the connections. Clear the fault codes, start the car and try jiggling the wires/connectors to try to trip a fault code. Loss of this signal could cause other problems.

NOTE #4.During cranking, the computer will test the current through the injector to see whether there's too much resistance in the injector's path. If there is, code 26 is set.

The problem may be cured with tuner cleaner on the connectors.

For TBI engines, the injector's cold resistance should be between 0.9 and 1.2 ohms (specs vary with year). This is a peak-and-hold injector. With the engine idling the peak period should be about 1.2 milliseconds whereas the hold period will vary. If it's lower than this at idle, then the injector's shorted or there's a defect in the injector driver circuit.

NOTE #5. In my case, the breather tube leading into the catalytic converter had rusted and become detached. This some how would cause the sensor to read an over rich condition and run crummy. I did not trust the reliability of the weld over a corroded surface and opted for the more expensive route of replacing the converter, breather tube and all.

NOTE #6.The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil(s). In my Le Baron, the Z1 circuit leaves the power module and splits into two paths: the fuel pump and the positive side of the ignition coil. Internal to the power module is the auto shutdown relay (in my case, it's a sealed box about 1" by 1"). The output voltage is monitored to determine whether the relay responds correctly. I suspect that the ASD relay (and, therefore, the Z1 circuit) also feeds the fuel injector(s) driver(s) and current sensing circuit, but can't prove this.

I've used the Z1 voltage to test for good power connections to the power module. I connected my OTC 500 multimeter from the battery's positive post to the ignition coil's switched battery terminal and measured the voltage drop using the bar graph to monitor peak voltages. Voltage spikes of around 200 mV to 300 mV are ok -- anything more means tv tuner cleaner time (or replacing the power module). Another thing to check is the maximum voltage drop during the priming pulse. With the old power module, I was losing about 2 volts across the circuit; the replacement is losing about 1/4 volt.

Note #7 Inside your distributor you have two pickups, one is for the ignition and one is to tell the computer where number one cylinder is in its rotation. If you look at the four slotted tangs inside there you will see one has a bigger slot, that's the one that tells the sync pickup what's number one. In other words, the pickup inside the distributor is bad.

Many possibilities. Plugs, plug wires, coil, ignition module, fuel injector, head gasket. Essentially anything that interfers with combustion on 2 or more cylinders.

Well!? I am just going through the hell with this problem.

Pulley is made out of plastic compound - bakelit.

You will have to remove a drive shaft in order to take a pump with the pulley out.

You need a special pulley remover to do the job for you - on your work bench. Another option is braking the old pulley and chipping the pieces out.

Mounting a new pulley is a another issue. You will need a compressor and a pneumatic gun to mount a new pulley on the shaft of the PS pump.

I would like to help out, but I would need to know what engine that you have in it. please repost...

Check out the related link for instructions on how to change the fuel filter in a 1999 Plymouth Voyager.

underneath the left side head light, mounted on the frame. take off the air cleaner assembly in order to get to it easier.

You can almost always bypass the A/C Compressor in any car. Most of them cam with or without A/C. :-) OPTION 1) Call the parts store and ask for the serpentine belt of a 96 PLymouth Grand Voyager SE. If they ask "with or without A/C" then say "without" and it should be the belt you need. If they don't ask, then they never built that car without A/C so go to option #2. (Note: An SE may just be an options package that includes A/C so you may want to ask for base model parts) OPTION 2) note the pulleys on either side of the A/C compressor. Hold a string from the center of one to the other. Note that length. Now, holding the string in the same 2 positions, follow the path of the belt around the A/C compressor. Note that length. Subtract the first measurement from the last and go to parts store and get 3 belts that are the same width and thickness as the original. Get one with the length you derived in the string test and one a little shorter and one a little longer. Hopefully one will work just right and you can take the other 2 back. :-) **** I JUST DID THIS TODAY ***** I drove my 1998 Voyager SE 3.3L v6 to a parts store to hunt for a belt without A/C. The replacement that is in ALL parts store computers have the WRONG ONE for this to work, but it is POSSIBLE. the belt size is 860KP. it may have more numerals in front of that, but if you get a belt that size, you can bypass the A/C (which just fell apart; broken brackets, etc -- American auto engineering). The major difference in the routing is THE WATER PUMP WILL BE DIRECTLY DRIVEN FROM THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY AND THE GROOVES OF THE BELT WILL BE FACING THE WATER PUMP'S SMOOTH PULLEY; WHICH IS OPPOSITE FROM WITH THE A/C. Keeping that in mind, you'll have a tight enough fit until you can figure out how youre gonna repair the original problem, but this will make the van more than a ton of cheap metalurgy (sp) than it is. I love my Voyager, but it should have been made my more reliable parts and metals. Everythings gone aluminum, just think of whats riding on your tires (including you). And space is limited under the hood, as if this thing wasnt designed to break. Truth is, its not designed to be fixed; I call these 60 month cars, "throwaways."

On my 94 ... swing up and open the back tailgate. There are two hex head bolts in the black plastic part of the tail light lens at the top. If I remember they require an 8mm socket or nut driver. Unscrew them, then the top of the lens will come loose. Swing it out a little bit then lift the bottom part. You'll have a tail light assembly in your hand with wires connected to the vehicle. Two lamps will be apparent one is the white backup light, the other is the stop/tail/turn signal. They are removed by turning counter clockwise about 1/4 turn.

I had the same problem with my 92 voyager when I bought it. For me it turned out to be the upper spring plates on the front struts. Had them replaced and it's been quiet ever since. NOTE: You might have to do an alignment if this is you situation as well.

I know the secret and know its pretty easy , hold down the top and bottom four approximatley four seconds , you will hear the heater system run a diagnostic from cold to hot wait for lights to stop blinking realease bottons if this fails you have a problem within the system ancient Chinese secret pass it on !

start by locating the bend in the rim then use a spoke tool or a flat scew driver losen the spokeson the side of bend and tight others usally u can get it pretty straight by eyeing it. but the easiest why is just take it to a local bike shop and cost some were between 10-20 $$ depending.

The maintenance required light requires a scan tool to be reset.