Plymouth Voyager

If the clock/radio is anything like the one on the '93 Plymouth Voyager, here is how you set the clock:

First turn on the radio, then press the set button. When it shows the "P" hit the select button, and it should change to just hours. Turn the Tuner knob to forward or back to set the time you want. Hit the Select button again to go to minutes, and do the same thing with the Tuner knob. Hitting the select button a third time will save the clock settings. ..

Is the steering wheel turned hard against the lock? Try moving the steering wheel back and forth hard at same time turn key.

Most likely either a ground on the way to the pump or a pump that needs to be replaced.

If the fuse blows immediately, it's probably a ground, as it would be unlikely for the pump to short completely. If it takes a while, you probably need a new fuel pump.

the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6

1-3-5 is the rear 3 cyclinders from passenger side to drivers side

2-4-6 is the front 3 cyclinders from passenger side to the drivers side

the coil pack is marked with the cylinder numbers attach the correct

number plug wire to the same number on the coil pack

check the fuse Look for a freyed or degraded wire with the rear door open. Located where the door joins the body at the top.

Lift the front of your car. It's under engine near transmission on drivers side. disconnect your battery. then disconnect 3 wires from starter. then unscrew 3 bolts those hold starter. remove starter, insert a new one and do as above in oposite way. __________________________________________________________________________ The Starter is in the front of the motor, right next to the oil pan. If you follow the positive battery cable from the battery, it will take you right to the starter. The starter is a direct drive starter and is very easy to change. be sure to disconnect the positive battery connector from the battery before you begin the removal of the starter. your bottom radiator hose may block you from lowering the starter, just move the hose and tug, it will come out. Good Luck and it should take about 90 minutes to R+R the starter.

A/C cutout relay circuit.

A list of codes for a 1994 can be found in the related link below.

Trouble code P1784 means: Pressure switch circuit: LR

I don't know about a 1995 but I changed the starter on my 1994 with a 3.3 engine and it was extremely easy. It's been awhile but it seems to me that there were only 2 bolts holding it on and they were easy to get at. I just disconnected the power, took out the 2 bolts and the starter came right out. The new starter cost me about $140.00 and I haven't had any trouble since and it's probably been 3-4 years and 40,000 mile ago.

The water pump is driven off of the timing belt. (No joke). If you do this job, replace the timing belt, water pump and front motor oil seal (crankshaft) while you are at it. You will have to jack up the car, remove the right wheel and wheel well to get access to the front of the engine. Take off the motor mounts, drive belts, crankshaft pulley, harmonic balancer (you will have to make a tool for this) and more. It ain't easy. It took me three days by myself to get it apart (of course, bolts were frozen). It only took one day to put it back together with my brother's help. DEFINITELY get a second pair of hands, I wasted a lot of time just jacking the engine up and down trying to get to things. You will have to have a manual for this job, don't even attempt it without one.

replaced ignition coil pack, PCM and spark plugs. No signal comes from the computer to fire plugs 2 and 3, but 1 and 4 are firing nicely. The van WILL NOT start, but -- at times -- it tries. Please help. There is possibility that I bought a faulty PCM with the same problem that I had from the original, but I dunno.

The tire jack is located in the engine compartment on the left hand side, by the coolant resivoir.

4.5 quarts

Remove Fan Shroud

Remove Belt

Remove Cooling Fan

Drain Radiator

Remove Radiator Bottom Hose from Water Pump

Unbolt Pump from Engine Block

It is a messy job but doable in 2-3 hours.

Hardest part for me was get the fan off.

adding to answer

I agree on the fan and thermostat was going to be hard.. actually I did not try to remove fan/thermostat from pump.. you must have the special tool or it real bear to get off.. I just remove the hoses from water pump, (there are three) remove the 4 bolts holding the pump and after doing all the above stuff, fan shroud etc and took the whole pump with fan to the local auto parts store that have a machine shop attached to it.. (call to make sure they can remove the fan before making the trip out, and forget auto zone tools they are not the correct ones.)

I was not there when they removed the fan assemble but could see torch marks on the large nut where it was heated up no doubt to help remove it.

Because i got the new pump at the auto supply shop they did not charge for removing the fan assembly. whole process took about 4.5 hrs that included time to get fan removed, buy new pump etc

I also replace the lower water hose, belt tensioner, and idler pulley at same time. The belt was recently replaces but could tell tensoiner and idler were original and with 147K miles thought it was as good idea to replace them. also replace dex cool with new.. actually did not see any buildup of slug etc in old pump, hoses or at engine block ports..

just my $144 dollars worth and 4 hrs.. at repair local shop the cost would have been close to 500+ bucks..

Cylinder #1 misfire.

15

you have two option 1 dismount the tank and drain it (thats not realy a favored idea) 2 get a cheap bike tire handpump and extend the hose to reach your tank it many make your gas needel to screw up for a little bit but it will work

Under the hood right-hand side (as you're standing in front of the car) long, skinny, black box. It is latched at the top. The fuse designations are embossed into the inside of the lid.

Also under the dash on the driver side.

Filter service is around 5 quarts.

Dry fill is around 9 quarts

Use ATF+4

Trouble code P1698 means: No CCD Messages Received From The TCM

In the wheel well, there is a round access door that you need to twist to open. It has a little nipple that has to be pushed in the twist the door.You will then have access the the bulb. I had the same issue, BIG HANDS were my downfall! My office mate changed it out much the same way the Passenger side changes. Hope this helps. There is a sleeve around the light and wiring. Turn it. Then pull the whole thing out.

The rear washers is fed by the same bottle as the front washers under the hood on right side of the van

Turn the wheel all the way to the other side you're working on. Remove the nut the turn to end, remove that. Remove the tire rod endÊby twisting the rod end. Insert the new rod into the strip where you removed the last rod and screw it into about how tightÊthe last one was.

I've had my '97 Plymouth Voyager stall going into gear (from park) when the transmission fluid was really low (down more than a quart). I've also had that same van stall when an O-ring in the distributer got bungled up, presumably from spraying the engine with a pressurized hose. Oops :)

The distributor problem was very hard to diagnose.