Plymouth Voyager

Making an engine that runs on water has been a dream for a long time. However, steam engines use water in a different way for power. A water powered car is probably far in the future.

"I had the same probelm with my 92' Voyager, the only thing I could do was to strip the cable's casing until you see the release cable itself, then grip it with a pair of vise grips and pull it. It should release it then. If not look under the front bumper and take a long screwdriver and see if you can push on the release latch to open the hood."

Or, you can remove the grille for easier access to the latch by removing the four torx head screws which hold the grille in place. If that works, and you can release the latch, make sure that the end of the cable is properly seated in the latch, and, take care in the future that you don't allow slack in the cable or it will pop out again. This is usually what happens when your release lever breaks inside the car. It creates enough slack in the cable to make it jump out at the other end where it seats in the hood latch. I now have a pair of locking pliers (vice-grips) hooked to my release cable inside the car and it works fine. I cut away the plastic shroud and removed the old lever bracket to make room. I also had to reinstall a small rubber grommet where the cable goes from the passenger compartment to the engine through the metal fire-wall. This is important as it prevents dangerous fumes from entering the passenger compartment.

I have a 2000 Plymouth voyager with the check oil light on and the chimes keep going off driving me crazy. I need to know how to reset this also. I haven't found the answer yet, but when I do I will share with you. Please keep me informed also. Thanks!

Yes, most dual overhead cam engines are "interference engines"

Massachusetts

Hello, I also have a 1999 Chrysler Voyager that I started to know something was waaaaaay off in reference to the temp gauge starting to go all the way up to the "H" one day. I checked the coolant level, and surely it needed coolant. I filled it up, and was checking it everyday if there could possibly be a leak. I couldn't and never found any leaks or telltale signs of one. What I did is take the van to a radiator shop, and had them preasure test the radiator. To my surprise, there was a hairline crack on one of the tanks to the radiator. Well, long story short, it turned out that both plastic tanks were cracked. Being plastic tanks, they are not repairable, so you might want to start there. That is very common on the plastic radiators so I was told from the radiator shop. I also removed the thermostat, because I suspected that at times it wasn't opening to allow flow of water, because while the engine was apparently at normal operating temperature, no heat would come when I would turn the heater on. GP P.S. To my luck, I now have to replace the water pump. It's leaking.

Electric automatic tran axle.

You lift the air filter top it should be black with couple clips and u pull it out then put in a new one good luck go and buy one in the store so you know what it looks like then just eye it up itll be in a black plastic case on the top of your motor near the back or on the side

no, at least not normally, if it does your cooalant temp. sensor is prob, shot and it is located near your upper rad hose where it contacts the engine.

check battery

No.

The Ames test identifies chemical mutagens.

The SSFR (Solid State Fan Relay)Cooling fan relay is located on the left front inner frame just behind the radiator.

The radiator coolant fan relay is located on the inside front of the engine compartment near the left headlight assembly. You have to remove the air filter assembly, then look for a simple square relay with 4 wires running into it. It is mounted with 2 screws. It is the only relay at that location. If it has burned, you will need to replace the pigtail wiring harness.

Remove the air box beside the battery a 10 mm bolt and the relay is a four prong square box bolted on the frame with two 8mm bolts

www.autozone.com

Click component location.

Some are located under the drivers side headlight (like Mine), Remove air cleaner assembly, remove headlight module, remove (plastic) cover(air intake0 with a Phillips screwdriver, locate module, remove wires (red tab). Some are riveted (like mine), carefully drill our rivets remove module, install new module,

re rivet or replace w/screws, rehook wires rellace parts removed and you are finished. Even w/rivets job took approx 1 hr

this is how i removed them i used a plug socket and two 3" extensions i put one extension into the socket placed this over the plug with the other extension on a 3/8 drive ratchet i then was able to place one ext. into the other that was on the plug removing the plug all was done from the top iam 6 ft and at 220 # so my arms are not small altho are fairly long this is for passenger side that sets under alternator to start the plug back into the hole i use a piece of rubber hose about 4" long i stick this over the plug am able to start plug back into hole without droping them the rest are fairly easy

The rear bank of sparks are hard to reach unless you have tiny arms. If you don't then you must remove the plentum. Also, you will need new plentum gaskets when re-installing.

I REACHED THE 3 REAR PLUGS ON MY 92 VOYAGER BY RAISING THE CAR ONTO JACKSTANDS AND DOING IT FROM THE BOTTOM. NEED TO BE CAREFUL SO YOU DONT CROSSTHREAD THE PLUGS GOING BACK IN BUT IT CAN BE DONE. JRT NEW MILFORD CT

This is how I removed mine: (1) Remove the windshield wiper arms and the cowl cover (black plastic below windshield) Remove the windshield wiper motor and linkage from the firewall. There are many individual steps to this but all are easy. (2) The driver side sparkplug should be removable using a socket with an elbow. This was easy. (3) I loosened the alternator and then could removed the passenger side sparkplug using an a socket with an elbow. This was not easy. (4) I removed the middle sparkplug by using a socket with an elbow, an extension, and another elbow on the socket wrench. This was difficult. (5) I ended up replacing the (middle) sparkplug(s) from the bottom after jacking the van up and putting it on jackstands. If I were to do it again, I would remove the cowl cover (this allows enough room to get on the sparkplugs with a socket) and remove the sparkplugs from the bottom. This would probably save a lot of scratches and time. The plenum does not have to be removed if the cowl cover and windshield wiper motor are removed.

The sparkplus socket with elbow was purchased at Sears. Overall, it took me about 4 hours trying to do most of the work from the top. Most of this time was spent trying to figure out how to make things work when you can't see what you're doing and when there's not much room to work. I felt really stupid when I noticed that all three sparkplugs are visible from the bottom once the cowl is off and there's enough room to work provided you have the elbow socket and extensions. The Chilton's manual wil tell you how to remove the cowl and windshield wiper motor.

Good luck and be happy the sparkplugs only need to be replaced every 100,000 miles.

I heard that removing the air filter will allow you easy access to the back spark plugs.. Will see when I try it this week on my 93 3.0L v6

this one is rigth you will need two short extention for the far left spark plug the others are easy to get too. that is next to the alternater ther are to screws hold on the air filter housing.

Many things can cause such an issue, but the one issue that is solely S-10 related is that the earlier-model poppet-style fuel injectors used in the '96-and-up model year Vortec engines were prone to sticking open or sticking shut after a large mileage buildup. Gm was even forced to address the issue in the early '00's by updating the injector style. The new injectors had the same flow rate, but were designed in such a way as to alleviate the problems found in the earlier ones. There was even a forced recall/replacement in the state of CA due to a lawsuit by the EPA in that state, claiming the poor design was leading to a higher-than-average rate of emissions testing failures in the above-described model years. This is oftentimes the culprit in the 4.3 engines when all the other standard solutions have been exhausted, ie: spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, etc...

yes!

Back of engine. One is in exhaust manifold, the other is screwed on behind hte catalytic converter.

,

all vehicals are required to use R-134 freon, its the law.

Your unit should take around 2.5 to 3 lbs of freon, exact amount should be listed under the hood of your van.

Its probably a better idea to let a shop do the work as they have the correct equipment.

Replacing your drier is a very good idea when doing a recharge.

I have recharged my own system, which only took a small amount, with recharge kit from Wal-mart.{in auto section} Cheap

Any large amount needed usually means that you have a leak somewhere.

A/C units are just like your refrigerator at home... you never have to recharge your home fridge, right?? That's because freon does not "go away" or get used up.

If your unit needs freon, have it checked, they will do an evacuation, and test the evac pressure. It should hold pressure after pump is shut off for 10 to 15 min's.

If the pressure drops, you have a leak. The shop will insert dye into your system, and check it with a floresent light to find the leak, or you can charge the system, and use "liquid dishsoap" diluted with water in a spray bottle, and spray the lines and fittings.

If there is a leak, it will "blow bubbles" where the freon is comming out.

Hope this may help

a stuck rely. and some time spring in the button on steering wheel gets stuck too

If it is like my 94 town and country 3.8, the best thing to do is remove the bracket und take it off the top. One book suggest that you remove thetop and bottom bolts to remove it from the bracket, then drop the alternator down and remove it by pulling it between the firewall and from crossmember. I found this impossible, since the exhaust pipe did not allow enough room. My car sat for 2 weeks till I decided to remove the entire bracket. It was not as hard as I thought it would be.

you need to press them in.if you put your ball joints in the freezer overnight they will shrink.Then heat up your a- arm with a torch and use a jack to pop the frozen ball joints in

The oil capacity for a 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager is 4.0quarts (this applies to all engine sizes - 2.4L, 3.0L, 3.3L)

If it is antifreeze then yes. If it is water then there's a leak in the fire wall under the windshield or wiper arms. Real hard to find.

I wish I knew, my 1996 Plymouth Voyager began experiencing the same problem. The low fuel alarm goes off, and the fuel guage drops to about half, then rises back to full, it only does this with the tank about 2 gallons under full, if the tank is completely full it shows empty, and when it gets near empty it shows full. I replaced the fuel pickup unit in the tank, but it still acts the same. I think it is a funky message for something else wrong. My van has 126000 miles on it. The check engine light started coming on today along with the other problem, it flashes 3 times then 2 times in a pattern.

HEY HERE IS WHAT WE FOUND OUT:::

WE HAVE A 1998 PLYMOUTH GRAND VOYAGER SE WITH THE 3.3 ENGINE. AT ABOUT 100K IT STARTED DOING THE LOW FUEL LIGHT AND CHIME ROUTINE AS DISCUSSED ABOVE..THE FUEL GAUGE WOULD GO DOWN A BIT AND IT WOULD CHIME...AT FIRST IT ONLY DID IT RANDOMLY AND SOMETIMES IT WOULD QUIT FOR A FEW MONTHS THEN START IN AGAIN...AS TIME PASSED IT INCREASED AND WE DID FIND THAT FOR A SHORT SPELL NOT FILLING UP THE TANK ALL THE WAY WOULD HELP KEEP IT FROM DOING IT AS OFTEN...BUT MORE TIME PASSED AND SOON IT WAS CHIMING NO MATTER WHAT WE DID..IT CHIMED EVERY FEW SECONDS NON STOP UNTIL I THOUGHT I WAS GOING TO LOOSE MY MIND...WE ENDED UP FINALLY TAKING IT TO THE DODGE DEALERSHIP THIS PAST WEEKEND AND THEY REPLACED THE FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT. THE COST OF THE PART WAS 96.03 AND LABOR WAS 198.00 AND IT WAS WORTH EVERY PENNY LOL!!! NO MORE DINGING EVERY SECOND THAT I DRIVE! WE DID A LOT OF RESEARCH ONLINE AND SEEN THAT MANY PEOPLE WITH THE SAME VAN WE HAVE WERE ALSO HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE LOW FUEL CHIMING AND SO WE HAD AN IDEA THIS IS WHAT IT WAS, BUT WE PUT IT OFF UNTIL IT JUST WOULDNT QUIT LOL....SO, WE WANTED TO POST THIS TO HELP OTHERS WHO MAY BE GOING NUTS OVER THIS STUPID CHIMING...OH AND BY THE WAY THE CHIME SOUND CAN NOT BE DISABLED, IT IS CONTROLLED BY THE BODY CONTROL MODULE...HOW CONVIENENT HUH LOL GOOD LUCK!!!