Pontiac Fiero

No, the real problem is the R12 oil is not compatible with 134A. The compressor will fail sooner rather than later. I recomend that you use a drop in compatable kit if you are doing this your self. If a shop is doing this they will want to flush you system, change the compressor oil and change the reciver drier. This is the expensive, but reliable way.

The slave cylinder is on top of the engine, under the intake ducting.

The bleeder screw is on top

Bleed the same way as brakes.

There are many ways to to this. My preferred method:

1: Park on level ground.

2: Set the (known working) parking brake firmly or block the right rear wheel.

3: Position the spare tire jack somewhat forward of the normal left side jacking point. About 3 or 4 inches from the forward edge of the left side rocker panel flange is good.

4: Raise the jack until the left front corner raises about 2 inches or so. A little more is okay too.

5: With the rear hatch (trunk lid, rear deck, rear hood) open, remove the air intake hose leading to the air cleaner.

6: Completely remove the bleeder screw from the slave cylinder. Verify that the screw is clean and the holes are not clogged. Clean or replace as necessary. Rinse and air dry first with carb cleaner, then water. Coat with brake fluid, then reinstall.

7: With the front hatch open, remove the cap from the clutch fluid reservoir and fill with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. DOT4 would also work, but isn't needed. Do not use DOT5. Leave the cap off for now.

8: Open the bleeder screw. Use a length of transparent, or at least translucent rubber hose to connect the bleeder to a hand operated vacuum pump.

9: Pump slowly four or five times. If you see no fluid enter the hose: check the fluid level at the reservoir (and top off) then repeat this step.

10: Pump the hand operated vacuum pump slowly until fluid flowing through the hose gets close to the pump.

11: Remove the hose from both the bleeder and the pump at the same time.

12: From this point on, remember to check the brake fluid level frequently and don't let it run low.

13: Watch that brake fluid flows (probably slowly and possibly with air bubbles) for a few minutes. If there is no flow, there is a problem in the system and bleeding won't fix it.

14: Close first the bleeder, then the cap.

15: Rinse away all spilled brake fluid with water. Use about ten times as much water as you think you need.

16: Put everything away, including the jack and air hose.

The fiero front hood release cable has an extra cable tucked inside the release lever housing. If they're both broke then you'll have to use a crowbar and lightly pry up on the hood but be extremely carefull not to break the fiberglass hood. Take a long flat tipped screw driver and remove the foam padding around the latch then take a 10mm stubby wrench and remove the 2 bolts holding the latch to the car then just raise the hood and trip the latch. Remove the old cable and install a new one.

The 2.8 V-6 engine was first used in the Fiero in the 1985 GT. It was called a 2.8H.O. engine and had 140 HP. It was the same in 1986. However, the same engine was used in other GM cars but had 130HP.

In 1988 Fiero horsepower was reduced to 135.

how ever they say 140 HP but dyno tests proove that the 86 fiero gt has 200 HP

the front spindle nut for 1984-1987 size is 24mm on the outside.internal thread pitch is 1.0fine and the metric inside diameter is 16mm.i am going to have some custom made axle nut made along with the washers,since dorman products no longer makes the spindle lock nuts... a machine shop can make some if anyone is interested in it.i am personally having some extra's made.

There is someone with a Olds 455 in his Fiero, but he had to remove the trunk.

No. She now works as an evening anchor for Fox 5 News in Las Vegas.

No. The S-10 is a 5x4 bolt pattern. The Fiero is a 5x100 pattern.

Additionally, placing a wheel meant for a truck onto a car would not be a wise idea, as if it's a wheel meant for a truck, you would be placing a wheel onto a car that has different inertia forces and areas of unsprung weight.

Source: Fiero owner for ten years.

There is no clutch adjustment. The clutch is hydralic and therefore needs no adjustment. If the clutch isn't working correctly you most likely have to bleed the clutch line.

145 kmph or around 90 mph according to Pontiac spec.

A good running car can easily beat this by 5 mph (at least mine did)

Place a pan under the drain valve on the radiator (back side of the radiator, right side) Reach up and open the valve letting the coolant out. (It is meant to be turned by hand, but you might need a pliers) After the coolant has started draining open the radiator cap to allow air into the radiator. Go back to the engine and open the thermostat cap (Large cap that looks like a radiator cap, has a two step turn - push and turn again removal). Remove the thermostat located under the cap by grabbing it, turning it to break the seal and pulling it up.

To fill - close the drain valve on the radiator. Leave the radiator cap off and start filling by pouring the coolant into the (still open) thermostat cap. Note - the thermostat needs to be still removed. Have an assistant watch at the radiator and when it gets full he needs to quickly put the radiator cap back on. Then continue to fill at the thermostat cap till the engine is full. Now start the car and let the coolant circulate, refilling at the thermostat cap when the coolant has dropped. After the car has warmed up, and all of the coolant bubbles have come out, fill the coolant to the top of the thermostat cap housing, replace the thermostat and cap and fill the reserve tank to the warm mark.

the fuel pump is in the fuel tank. you can access to it by the top of the fuel tank once it's removed.

This is kind of neat:

The fiero comes with a second cable already installed. Remove the hood release handle and there should be a cable end hanging there. Pull and release the hood. The replacment proceedure is undo damaged cable from hood latch, tape the new to old, follow the camle to the bulkhead and release all the hold down clips and gromits, use the old to fish the new through the car, re-conect.

Very.

There was only 6,849 GTs built in 1988 and the factory or dealer installed t-top was only an option (a rather expensive one) that few were equipped with. As long as it has the CJB build code, you can be fairly sure it's genuine; but remember, t-top kits are available and still floating around.

It may not be stock and as such, may be done improperly or cheaply.

You know the Murphy's Law about when you assume something? It works really good on a Fiero. Raise the rear of the vehicle. Remove both rear wheels and watch the action of the park brake levers on the calipers as a helper pulls the hand brake lever inside of the vehicle. Do both levers move approximately the same distance? Are both return springs in good condition? They should push the levers back to the stops on the calipers. If yes, then the cable adjustment (located at the rear of the cradle frame) is probably OK. Since the park brake auto-adjustment mechanism is located inside of the rear caliper piston, it cannot be viewed. Pull the Park Brake lever inside of the vehicle as far as it will go. Pump up the brake pedal until it has a hard pedal. Release the park brake. Repeat about three times. If the auto-adjuster is working properly, you should see an improvement in Park Brake operation.

nope, not for a fan anyways, for alternator, water pump ect it does

It depends on what conversion you are wanting to do.

With an '86 GT, you have the generation 1 headlight assemblies. '87 and later got the generation 2 assemblies, which are typically of better quality.

In my '86 GT I have, I have swapped them over to the generation 2 assemblies and it's very easy to do. You obviously have to have the motors and wiring to do the swap but you also need an important relay that resides in the driver's side fender area. The generation 1 headlights do not have this large relay and use another smaller relay that does not interchange.

For other headlight conversions, it just depends on what you are converting to. Most everyone whom has done a custom job has a detailed build. Do some searching.

You will need a timing light, set it at 10 degrees BTD

Mine wont start because the engine is out on the rebuild stand right now, Yours I have no idea

Pop the engine compartment. Under the very back of the trunk lid are some plastic inserts. they are kind of square and should pop right out with a screwdriver. Once you remove them it will reveal the Phillips head screws holding in the lens. Be very careful because you have to kind of tilt them out from the top. Plastic grooves hold them in on the bottom. When reinstalling them start by inserting the grooves on the bottom then tilting the top back in to line up the screw holes.

how do you remove rear window 85 feiro

There are two brackets that hold the steering column to the dash frame. Remove the bolts that hold the brackets to the dash frame. There is one bolt that connects the universal joint to the rest of the steering shaft. All these bolts are accessible under the dash. Beyond that you need to unplug the electrical, and also if you have an automatic, you need to disconnect the park innerlock cable from the column. (Easier after you have lowered the column out of place)

on a sticker located on the underside of the hood on the right side