Saab

The Saab 9-5 series uses a 2.3 liter turbocharged four cylinder. The engine does not have a timing belt, it uses a timing chain. The timing chain never needs to be replaced and is said to have a life of 300,000 to 500,000 miles depending on how the vehicle is cared for.

It's hard to find and needs to be accessed from from under the engine compartment: Open your hood, look to the right of the yellow oil dipstick exactly 1 foot, deep under the radiator and other hoses is the green trans fluid dipstick. It is held in place by a 12mm bold. It is quite easy to access and check once the car is lifted.

If it is Saab900 SE (NG, I presume) it is attached to engine oil cap on top of engine (its big and yellow...can't miss it.) Turn the cap, pull out the dipstick attached. Yellow-brown tip indicates oil level.

it is left hand thread so if you would normally turn a bold left to loosen it you need to turn this bold right to loosen it.

Get the car on some ramps, remove the under tray and locate the sump plug, it's a 13mm nut in the sump. Remove this and let all of the oil drain into a bucket or other container (dispose of this correctly), refit the sump plug with a new washer and tighten up. Remove the oil filter head using a 32mm spanner/socket wrench, remove the paper element and replace, refit the cover after cleaning all the contact surfaces. Fill the engine with oil slowly (they take 4.3l for a TID), start the engine check for leaks then switch off, allow a few minutes for the oil to return to the sump and check the level - top up as required. DO NOT OVERFILL! Too much engine oil is just as bad as not enough.

The basic Aero model is priced from $239,000, while the Ultimate Aero would cost well over $650,000 (as of 2007).

You need to be a little more descriptive than that.

When did it happen? How did it happen? Does the car do anything when you try to start it (noises etc)?

Door speakers are 6.5" (17cm)

Dash speakers are 3.5" (9cm) and are held in by a pair of torx T25 screws.

Rear speakers are 6x9"

The front speakers in a 1994 Saab Aero 9000 hatchback are 4 inches. The rear door speakers are 6 1/2 inches and the rear deck speakers are 6 1/2 inches.

low fuel pressure on the fuel pressure check valve , which is located on the fuel rail that services all the injectors. the car will attempt to start but won't. pouring gasline in the throttle body will start the car but only momentarily..

the oil pump is on the front of the motor you have to take off the crank pully it is behind it there are two gears that you will need to replace

That year has a cable clutch linkage from your clutch pedal to the transmission, and it tends to wear and STRETCH, causing the clutch to not be fully disengaged even though your clutch pedal is pushed all the way down to the floor. It is a design flaw as there is no cable-length-adjustment. SAAB came out with a TA that instructs mechanics to use TWO (instead of just one) spacer washers when replacing this cable, to help forestall how soon this happens. There is an aftermarket replacement cable that has an adjustment built in. I postponed replacing my cable for about 6 months by shimming where the cable attaches to the clutch arm: I cut a slot in a fender washer so I could slip it over the cable without taking the cable out. I bent the washer to match the curve of the clutch arm. I then inserted the washer between the clutch arm and the ball at the end of the cable, effectively shortening the cable by the thickness of the washer...but eventually you will need to replace the cable. If you use this fix and later feel it grinding the breaking of the cable is IMMINENT!

If your key will not turn off your car alarm at drivers door lock cylinder, remove drivers door panel, and check the rear of lock cylinder for a switch which should be attached to back of lock cylinder(often can be knocked off when door has been opened using a slim jimmy), if not attach, re-attach, if attached, then replace switch. Otherwise use key fob.

i had a Nissan and i had to place the key in the passenger door to tun it off. i also had another Nissan it turned off by the trunk in the key

There is a tiny screw by the attachment to the key ring. Walmart had a small enough screwdriver to open it and slide out the battery and replace it with a new one.

The fuel pump(s) are located in the gas tank. There are two fuel pumps, a low-pressure pump to fill the bucket that the main pump sits in , and the main high-pressure pump. The low-pressure pump is more likely to fail, which gives the symptom of running out of gas when the gas tank is still half full. If the low-pressure pump is not able to fill the bucket (which is to make sure there is gas for the main pump even when hard cornering with a low fuel level), the main pump is starved for fuel and the engine will quit. The pumps are easily accessed by removing the trunk floor. There are two circular plates in the body above the fuel tank. The larger one - on the left side - hides the fuel pumps. Removing the fuel pumps requires some tools not found in most simple tool kits. If you have any concerns, let a professional mechanic do the work.

Procedures for manually operating the convertible top are in the Owners Manual.

It is nearly impossible to properly answer this question because there is almost no information. What year? What model (classic 900? next generation 900? 9-3?)? The convertible tops have several different methods of operation, some hydraulic, some electric. Is the top up or down?

On the 95 Saab 900 Turbo Soft Top, the manual release is located behind the passenger back seat. If you look on the left side, you will see a slit in the grey material. The lever is red. If you pull it down, it releases the motor that operates the top. However..... be sure you really want to do this. I was under the impression it would be simple to reconnect the motor. It's not. My soft top will manually go up and down now but I cannot get the top connected to the latches in the trunk. I need to go to a Saab mechanic and have the top recalibrated with a tech 2 tool. About $100

It is possible to reset the alarm module for Saab 900's. It requires some specialized equipment and a high degree of electronic expertise.

I offer this as a paid service through ebay.

But there are other options for you too.

If you can find a used unit in a wrecking your that is "disarmed". You can buy that one and install it in your car and you will be on your way.

You do not need a remote for the unit it just has to be disarmed to be usable.

You can then add a remote to that unit later if desired.

I hope this is useful to you.

The key fob splits apart when you depress the Saab logo and pull the top of the key from the bottom. It's design allows entry when the vehicle/fob battery is dead.

Hope this helps.

See your owners guide for detail.

I wanted to add that when you do use the key to unlock the door be prepared to hear your alarm go off. It was quite unnerving the first time I unlocked my door with the key when my fob gave out.

Under the back seat.

It's that little disc in the center...

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That is how you change the actual headlight but the question is how to change a fuse.

It depends on how you look at it. Parts and labor are usually more expensive on luxury cars like the Saab. However, the frequency of repairs required is much lower, so you end up saving money in the long run. And Saabs tend to last a lot longer than other makes. Plus they are among the safest cars on the road, nearly always ranked in the top 3 for safety. -- Wink Just like any car - doing repairs yourself can be less expensive than going to the dealer - IF you have the know-how. Somethings are simple and some are very complex. There's a wealth of information that is Saab specific at www.Saabnet.Com A well maintained Saab should last at least 200K miles and a lot go much, much higher (My 1991 900T just hit 255k!) so if you add that into the $$ equation the total cost of ownership goes down compared to cars that are designed to self destruct around 100k miles.

Finding an independent Saab specialist is an excellent way to control repair costs. A lack of familiarity with Saab's by most mechanics can lead to improper or unnecessary work being done which gives the impression repairing them is more expensive and troublesome than it really is. Saabnet is an excellent resource for locating one.

Suggest you go to www.saabclub.org/ - the owners' club can answer all these questions and point you to reliable workshops and help with buying/selling parts and cars - SAAB owners are particularly keen e.g. I have 2 SAABs in the USA and 3 in the UK Good Luck! N.B. the firing order is 1-3-4-2 but without the proper workshop manual I won't say any more! You want the Bentley 16-valve manual; see http://www.bentleypublishers.com/saab/index.htm

If this is around a 1996 model, next to the seat heater buttons on the right side is a button with a hole in it. This is where the noise is coming from. It is some kind of air monitor and is not needed on a used car. Pull panel on right side of center consol at bottom to access this sensor and disconnect it.