Saturn S-Series

okay this depends on what type of machine your polaris is. if its an ATV, there will be a big shift knob on the left side of the gas tank, and that should be pretty easy to figure out how to use. this is true for every polaris ATV except in the case of the 2000 polaris expedition 425, in wich it was a manual transmission, and you had to manually shift using your feet. in the case of snowmobiles, you do not have to shift them. they use a belt drive system that does everything for you

It's inside the throttle body. The easiest way to describe it, with the engine OFF, just have someone sit inside the car and press on the gas pedal about half way down, then let it up. Have your friend keep doing that until YOU are able to see what's moving. Then you've found it.

The SL2 has dual cams. The SL only has one. The lower part of the engines are effectively identical with the only real difference being the heads.

Probably a leak in the valve cover gasket around the spark plug. If it isn't building up a lot of oil, it probably isn't much of a problem. Once the oil pools up to the gasket, it stops building up.
It's more of an annoyance than anything, and if you want, you can pull the valve cover and replace the gasket.

You need coolant.

Removal of the inner door panel is needed. You will see 4 bolts holding the motor in. Its easier to have a power source and leads to connect to the motor so that you can move the arm as you see fit. The motor slides thrugh the door with a little muscle and patience :)

IIRC the '99 has a 3rd gen cylinder. You must remove the column cover by removing two 5.5mm bolts. A 1/4 in nut driver works also. Using a coat hangar wire, press on end of the wire into the small hole on the right side of the ignition cylinder. with the key in the ACC position, press the wire into the hole. Essentially there is a clip that must be pushed in and the cylinder comes right out.

You have a very loud squeal when the engine is cold that goes away when warmede up usually after 30 secs. For a Saturn that's a dead giveaway

If your belt deflection feels tight (check by taking the belt in a span between two pulleys and moving it up and down. If it's real sloppy, change the belt than try again.), more than likely your basing this on noise when operating, perhaps a squealing. That could also be related to a bearing in the power steering pump, alternator, or water pump.

Squealing, slapping and whining are a few of the noise symptoms that can indicate a problem with a vehicle's engine accessory belt drive system.

Critical accessories driven by the belt system include the generator/alternator, water and power steering pumps, and the air conditioner.

To isolate the cause of the noise problem, listen to the engine when accelerating, when making a hard turn or when activating the air conditioning.

A squealing noise that occurs when pulling away from a stop suggests incorrect belt drive tension. A slapping sound is likely caused by a loose belt that is not tensioned properly, or a seized belt tensioner.

A growl or whine can indicate that a bearing in the tensioner or idler assembly is about to fail.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iogtiYraHCg

richpin

The IAT sensor is in the breather box by The air filter. the sensor goes in the front of the box at the bottom two wires going into it

Typically the EGR valve is not the only problem.
If you'll examine the exhaust gas passages when you have the EGR valve out of the engine, you'll notice that an older vehicle typically has quite a bit of built up deposits on the inside of the passages. These need to be cleaned at least sufficiently to allow the free flow of exhaust gas.
Sometimes the cleaning process can be more time consuming than replacing the EGR valve.
And SOMETIMES, you don't even need to replace the EGR valve; the problem can simply be the buildup of deposits.

There can be many reasons so to why the pedal vibrates. You may have bad motor mounts, or the throttle cable mount can be loose. There is no sping located at the pedal, instread it is on the throttle body. Make sure everything is bolted down correctly and tightly

my 1994 sl1 gets 38-40 mpg city and around 45-47 mpg highway

If the temperature gauge is rising when you stop at traffic lights then your electric cooling fan is not running. Most likely need a new temp. switch for the fan.

There is one right in front usually in the exhaust manifold. You may have a secondary one behind the catalytic converter. There is only one sensor until 1996. This is according to the Haynes 1991-1999 Auto Repair Manual.

A bad EGR valve in a 2000 Saturn can have several symptoms. The EGR valve can cause misfires, the valve can cause vacuum leak style problems. There could also be an engine knock.

I assume the problem you are having is that the instrument cluster doesn't fit past the stearing wheel. The cluster has to be pulled out the front of the dash. First remove the bezel around the front of the cluster and then the 2 large bolts that hold up the steering colum must be removed and you can lower the wheel down onto the seat and pull the instrument cluster out towards the drivers seat. Another tip is that odometer is digital and it is common for it to look shattered or black if you are removing the factory black faces to install white ones. Don't panic when you plug the gauge back in it will return to normal.

Try Haynes Repair Manual for the Saturn S-Series 1991 thru 2002 available at most auto parts stores.

The bearings are pressed into the knuckle so you have to remove the knuckle and then press out the hub (wheel studs) and then remove the clip and press out the bearing cant do it unless you have a 10 tonne press

Tune-Ups Are Very Simple. Change the Oil, I use Castrol Syntec 10W-30. Flush and change your engine coolant if it hasn't been one in 5 years(take it to a shop, you really dont save much money doing it yourself). Also, change the fuel filter if you need to(generally at 100k mi). Also the air filter if needed. Transmission/Clutch fluid needs to be done as well. Ensure they are flushed. Many ppl dont realize how much metal shavings from wear on gears and gunk build up you'd get in your transission. As long as the transmission isn't slipping, you dont have to rush it. Also check belts and pulleys for wear and cracking. The most important thing is spark plugs. Never trust the igniter gap, even the pre-gapped ones, they're just a universal estimate. Buy a igniter gap gauge if you have to. They're usually like $1. Use titanium plugs, like NGK, if you want optimum performance. Its the little things you do that can make a big difference in performance.

In that case, you probably don't have tail lights or clearance lights either.
Check the fuses. If that's not it, you may have a faulty light switch.

341-camshaft pos sensor

Other 2-trans slipping-wrong gear detected.

Most likely pressure control solenoid in transmission....Easily tested with proper scan tool

ALSO try changing EGR valve. Will REALLY HELP!!!! I just changed mine, all my hard shifting and jerking in reverse went away.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=AX-rtsyigaQ

Any type of antifreeze will work in a 99 Saturn SL1. Many people recommend using Prestone Antifreeze for cars that are older than ten years.