Suzuki

Try looking behind the driver's side tail light. I know the wires for the fuel pump are back there, so you could follow the wires right to the relay. J. Marion The relay on the 94 is behind the drivers side dash on the left hand side

It can refer to both the inside and outside of a door panel, but more often than not it refers to the outside door adhesive moldings.

1998 to 2004 is carburators and 2005 up are fuel injected.

Knowing the firing order of a vehicles engine is important when owning a car. The firing order of this bike is 1-2-4-3.

2.5 qts with out a filter change and 3 qts with on my 2000

with filter change 3300ml or 3.5 qts

48

650 ml oil is transmmission capacity

wouldnt advise it 10 40 semi synth or a thicker oil as it gets older

The spark plug boot? yeah sum say coil wire , but its actually the coil to spark plug boot. KongKit

I am also planning on fitting a stronger engine in my Suzuki Jimny (M13A). According to my research the M13A, M15A, M16A and M18A (Australia & NZ) will all fit into the Jimny as it's the same engine block with different bore and strokes.

Even the existing Jimny ECU should work with any of the Suzuki M1XA engines.

Try not to go for something too strong as the gearbox/drivetrain might not cope with the extra torque/power. That's why I did not buy a M18A I got hold of, but are still looking for an M15A or M16A.

(I stand to be corrected on anything above)

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Hi, it's been many years since I had my Samurai's, but if looking at possible engine swaps, keep in mind some engines were 2 valves per cylinder, some were more...some engines used engine driven fuel pumps and carbs, some used electric fuel pumps and fuel injection. Morale of the story, you may need more than just a 'long block' from your donor car/engine...you might need intake and exhaust manifolds, different fuel system, etc. Good Luck!

well,you need to go to a battery store or a enganer to see what to and how to put in.

a 3sp A/T

a 4sp A/T

or

a 5sp M/T

your supposed to tall us, we can see it.

it carry 121.4 HP

My guess would be 40mm female. I tried a 38 and a 42, 38 is too small and 42 is too large. I had a difficult time finding anything in between. I finally found a 40mm on eBay (surched the Dennis Stubblefield catalog and came up epmpy). I hope this works as I am struggling with the same problem you are, no one wants to list the VZ800 on their rotor puller sizes. My 40mm should be in in a couple of days and I pray it works this has been sooooooooo frustrating.

I got my 40mm puller in. the female threads fit my 2001 Suzuki Marauder, but the bolt (which is reverse thread) was too short to pull the rotor. I stuck a small socket into the opening in the center of the rotor and screwed the bolt in on top of that and was able to pull the flywheel. Now maybe I can finally get my bike back on the road.

Taken from info i found about de-restricting the LTZ50

My son rides a Suzuki LTZ-50 (he's 5) and we would like to remove the governor so it can go faster. Is anybody aware of how to do this or if the manual will tell you how? The place where we purchased it from wants us to bing it in and they can do it. However, we would like to do it if we can and then put it back in once our younger son is old enough to ride! Any help is appreciated. THANKS!!!

It's in the manual, but you'll need an air imact gun to remove the pulley nuts. I'd spend 30 or 40 bucks and let the dealer do it.

Mine was removed during the PDI before I took it home.

Huh? Is this different from the LT-A50 (two-stroke version)? I have one of those and both the owner and service manuals for it and don't recall anything about a restriction on a pulley. The restrictions on the 2-stroke are in the intake port, the exhaust port, the throttle control, and the secondary carb jet.

The book we have says you need some sort of special tool. took ours to the dealer and for 39 bucks it goes about twice as fast. I think it's a spacer inside the trans. Just tell them you want to put it back later and save the spacer.

Hmm, the 2-stroke version doesn't have a transmission - just a centrifugal clutch. The 4-stroke model must be a lot different in more than just the engine.

Both of my boys have the suzuki 50's. My oldest has the LT50A (2stroke) and my youngest has the new LTZ50(4 stroke). There is no need to pay a dealer an absurd amount of money for a 5 minute job you can do at home. I asked my dealer and they wanted to charge $125 due to labor which included disassemble and reassemble. For the LTZ50 all you need to do is remove the side plastic and case cover as shown in your manual. Next pick up a nice bottle of champain for your wife. After she starts drinking, take the cork and use it as a wedge between the gear and the engine. This will allow you to remove the nut without destroying the aluminum case. Once the nut is off, remove the 1/4 space and reassemble the bike. Until CT racing comes out with the new CDI box and exhaust, there's really not too much more to do to that bike. Now the LTA50 is another story. After removing the two restrictor washers, you can open the carb and adjust your needle position as well as remove the secondary jet plug. It's a small set screw covering the secondary jetting. This will give the bike a little more top end. Hope this helps:^)

Any word on when CT will come out with a new CDI??? It a damn shame that such a nice mini is cripple by such a restrictive CDI..

CT Racing was supposed to have the CDI available by December of 06. From what I've been told is that they ran into some unforseen issues with the upgraded CDI and may not be going forward with production. I've started to look elsewhere for this as well as other upgrades for the fourstroke 50. No luck yet.

the only engine/trans performance upgrade to my sons 2006 ltz 50 ive done, was to remove the clutch restrictor ring which made a difference but it still was a pig up any kinda hill. i pulled off the exhaust to see if there was a restrictor washer at the head, no washer. i then pulled the baffle out of the pipe, BINGO, the baffle has tiny holes that are covered with a fine mesh screen that plug easily, i don't know how this thing actually breathed. heres what i did.

remove two 8 mm bolts that hold the baffle in at the end of the pipe and pull baffle out.

take a sawsall or hacksaw and cut the perforated end of the pipe with screen off (about 2 inches) and throw it in the trash

reinstall baffle locktite bolt

now that the exhaust can flow the bike has way more power, goes up hills, sounds louder/cooler but is not obnoxious, has some backpressure still, and the plug has good coloring so there is no jetting issues to address....................and the best part its FREE.

I've done the exhaust mod, then went a couple steps further. The air box is restricted to, I drilled a few more holes in the end of the air intake on the box, then pulled the carb and drilled the jet out one size bigger, I think two sizes would be better. This thing really runs great now.

So I see you say to unbolt the two 8mm screws to remmove the baffle. So might next question is are running a stock pipe, cause my 07 does not have any screw to take out. It is one full piece for the exhaust and the muffler is one solid piece so the end cap will not come off. I also read about drilling holes so it can breath better and install a bigger jet, but what about the cdi. I 've read that the cdi is bad and to fix it you will need to buy an aftermarket cdi, is this true? Thanks for the help!

slot of guys are running the ltz90 cdi and getting the best results. i guess with the dynatek one they have stalling issues. i just got my sone one and have been researching this quite a bit.after he gets to be a better rider by mid summer or so i will be doing a pipe or pipe mod, airbox mods, 90 cdi, and clutch weights to create a higher stall speed to get it a bit more into the power before it takes off.should run pretty decent then.

ct racing (562-945-2453)makes a kit i believe inc. cdi box , full exhaust air filter and jets. there's also a 3 tooth larger rear sprocket for take offs . as far as your mod your cutting your spark arrester off , for the person with the newer bike there's one screw on the bottom side at the very tip of the exhaust take it out the spark arrester should slide out save yourself the trouble of cutting it and just leave it out and now you can re-install it if you ever want or need to unless you ride somewhere that requires and inpects them it won't hurt anything to run without it

A Suzuki with the model number 00994 is a year 88 model. This means that in 2014, the car is 25 years old.

Suzuki has made a RM 125 every year since 1975. The 75 RM lineup replaced the successful TM lineup.

Its most likely the spark plugs getting wet, mine conks out simetimes in the rain

On the right side of the bike, follow the cable down to where the clutch case is. On top of this case, the cable enters into the clutch case. Right here there will be an adjuster, turn the one on the handle all the way in. Use the adjuster on the clutch case to get a rough estimate and then use the top adjustment to fine tune it.

remove the only 2 mount bolts that hold the starter on and the nut holding the main wire then pull the starter straight out, though usually you'll have to pry it out.

This info can be found in the owner's manual. no timing belt is a chain and u dont need to replace it unless there is something worng with it, but not a maintance issue

An easy way to answer this is to be in the car with the car running and press the central locking button.

Mr Shinzo Nakanishi is Managing Director and CEO of Maruti Suzuki

You hold the bike up straight after having it run for about 3 minutes and then look at the window on the right side about 6 inches below the fill plug. Make sure it is between the lines.