Toyota Cressida

you have to make sure that your engine is set at tdc (top dead center) then you have to put the rotor set at the number one spark plug wire,make sure you put the distributer in carefully and not to damage the shaft.

inside the gas tank

Are you talking about the lights that are under the gauges, that read "check engine", battery, oil press, etc.? If so, your ecu is not getting a STA signal, or start signal. You need to test for ecu trouble codes. To do this... go under the bonnet and find the DIAGNOSIS box. Jumper terminals TE1 and E1. Start the engine. Watch the Check engine light blink. It works kind of like Morse code. For instance... BLINK BLINK ... pause ... BLINK BLINK BLINK would be a code 23. This site can help you determine the meaning of the code. Good luck. http://docs.azsupracentral.com/Engine%20Error%20Codes.pdf

the 1985 cressida is like the 1986, the way to disable the system is with the key on either doors,

The screws that hold the head lamp in place, also act as adjustment points. Let's say you wanted the lights to point down a bit more. You would need to lose the top screw and tighten the bottom screw. Same applies if you wanted to adjust left, right etc... You can buy a book for your specific car for about $20 at any auto parts store.This would have a much better description and probably a picture too. Good luck!

behind the left (drivers side) "kick panel"

Most common things are Thermostat or a bad heater core but could also be something blocking the door down by the heater core. I changed my Thermostat and Heater control Valve to find out a pencil fell in the defroster and prevented the door from closing. Hope this helps.

It is very simple since it's only two clip that you have to loose and after put the new filter in place in the bracket on the firewall on the left side (driver side).

I believe that the filter held by two clips is for the carbureted engine, while on the fuel injected '91 tercel, the fuel lines are bolted on top and bottom and the filter is bolted to the firewall in an inconvinient location.

my service manual says 10 degrees before tdc on auto models with ac off idle @750

it is cauused by over accelaration during the car is in nutrule so if you accelerate at that point the cars belt will get old and it would proably that the reason you are getting a wretel in your car when you accelerate

The 2010 Toyota Corolla takes 26" drivers and 16" passenger side wiper blades. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only. Be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

The starter is located on the driver side of the under the intake maniford it has two bolts 14mm to remove it.

On the right-hand side strut wall close to the chassis, just below the air intake plume.

If you are standing at the front of the car with the hood raised, the alternator will be bolted to the side of the engine closest to you, at the left corner. You will notice the metal housing with coils of wire showing through the grates. Begin by disconnecting the battery cables. The alternator is secured to the engine with a bolt hinge on the top, and with a bolt slide on the bottom bracket of the alternator. The bolt slide mechanism is to allow the belt tension to be adjusted. 1) Begin by loosening the bolt that attaches the bracket to the slide. The head of the bolt faces the passenger side, and will require the use of a 12mm socket. You just need to get it loose enough to let it move. Don't completely remove it yet. 2) Next, unscrew the bolt that controls the tension on the belt. This will be the long bolt with the head facing towards the front of the car. It also requires a 12mm socket. Keep turning the bolt counter-clockwise until you can move the alternator enough to remove the belt from the alternator pulley. 3) Now you can unscrew the bolt on the top bracket. This bolt requires a 14mm socket. 4) Disconnect all wires from the alternator. You can now remove it from the engine bay. 5) Installing the new alternator is simply the reverse of removing the old one. Reattaching the bottom bracked to the bold slide can be challenging, and may take some trial-and-error to fit it back in. Do not tighten down the bolts yet. 6) After you have remounted the alternator, and have the belt back on the pulley, begin to turn the tensioner screw clockwise. This will push the alternator away from the engine, tightening the belt. The way to tell if you have tightened the belt enough is to push down in the middle of the belt (between the two upper pulleys) with your finger. A properly tightened belt will only flex by about 1/4" to 3/8". 7) Now you can tighten down the rest of the bolts that mount the alternator to the engine (remember not to accidentally continue tightening the belt-tensioner bolt). 8) Reconnect all wires to the alternator. 9) Reconnect the battery leads. You must first attach the negative (-) lead, then connect the positive (+) lead. Most of the time, when an alternator fails, we don't realize it until the battery is dead and the car no longer starts. If this is the case, you must remember to give your battery a full recharge before attempting to use the new alternator. Running a car engine when the battery is extremely hard on the alternator because it has to not only power the car, but recharge the battery as well. This can cause your new alternator to fail as well, putting you back at square one. That's all!

OK..it gets a little involved here; Drive it on a stable Flooring surface. Jack it up. BRACE it...on the front right with a jack stand,PARKING BRAKE FULLY ON,and transmission in PARK if automatic,or FIRST/REVERSE if a standard shift I usually let it cool a bit first..hot cars are not fun to get burnt on. REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION!!!!!! (SAFETY FIRST!!!!) UNHOOK..AND REMOVE THE BATTERY! DO NOT attempt this with the battery IN car..way too many things to go wrong.

REMOVE The AIRFILTER Box cover,Hose,and filter element PULL the Airfilter box...lots of plastic fiddly snap ons for wire looms (I just broke mine,it DOENST NEED THEM,it only makes it a bit quieter..you'll never notice the little rattle with the running engine noises)

LOOK to the REAR of the engine,you'll see the TOP of the starter...loosen and remove the 14MM bolt/nut holding it on now down below PULL the PASSENGER FRONT TIRE... REMOVE the lower ball cotter pin/nut and release it from the lower arm. UNBOLT the VERY large nut in the center of the hub(you might have to make the dented in area with the roundness of the remaining nut,to allow it to spin.) With a LARGE...VERY large punch,HIT the center of the drive shaft,until it drops a bit and releases from the hub...DO NOT TRY TO GET IT ALL THE WAY THROUGH...it wont go. REMOVE THE Tie Rod end from the knuckle,by pulling the cotter pin and removing the nut,theeeen the knuckle will be free enough to allow the drive shaft to fall free from the hub. USE a VERY large screwdriver or prybar,and release the shaft from the transmission..it'll "POP" when it releases...then you can take it out of the car. this will ALLOW you to pull the arm low enough to REMOVE the starter.

remove the 10mm nut for the power TO the starter remove the Trigger wire(it has a STRANGE plug that locks onto the starter,it HAS a release,just pry CAREFULLY on the release,it'll snap loose THENnnn the LAST 14MM bolt on the starter,it'll now drop free.. HASTLE it around the REAR of the engine working to the front of the car,THEN PULL THE LOWER ARM DOWN...it wont clear unless the arm drops about two inches.

THEN install the new starter,the one bolt you removed from the bottom,screw in the LAST 14MM bolt on the starter into the transmission LOOSELY!!!!!!!

GO up top,reinstall the TOP bolt,TIGHTEN THIS ONE FIRMLY,but NOT all the way... Go below,tighten the bottom bolt to final spec. RE-ATTACH ALL THE WIRES...make sure the trigger wire is snapped in fully. GO up top,FIRMLY tighten to spec the top bolt.. Re-install everything you removed up top then down below RE-INSTALL THE DRIVE SHAFT,push the transmission end util it POPS and locks into place,then thread it into the hub until it bottoms out,then spin on a NEW HUB NUT....tighten snugly....wait until it is down on the ground and you can tighten it fully,just use it to get the drive shaft to make full penetration Lower ball joint bolt and NEW cotter pin TIE rod end/and NEW cotter pin. REINSTALL TIRE... set it on the ground....TIGHTEN TO SPEC YOUR HUB NUT REINSTALL THE AIRFILTER BOX/HOSE/COVER/ELEMENT Reinstall the battery(MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF!!!!!) Hook up battery... LOOK AT EVERYTHING...see if ANYTHING is loose.. CHECK EVERY BOLT YOU TOUCHED TO SEE THAT IT IS TIGHT, MAKE SURE ALL WIRES ARE IN PLACE... Crank it...does it crank?? it should fire MUCH better then when you started....good luck.. took me about a hour WITH power tools,and I had to figure it all out : (

All mounts are designed to be worked on. They won't seem that way at first. The bolts are only accessible on some by removing the plastic shield under the car. You have to use a 1/2" breaker bar or long ratcheting 1/2" torque wrench along with 1/2" extensions and sockets. Front involves removall of the fan screws and the upper radiator hose (messy). The fan has to be moved around a little. The driver's side needs to have the air filter box removed. The passenger's side requires unbolting from under the car with a long extension. The power steering (I think) tubing clamp has to be freed so that the tubing can be moved out of the way. The rear requires removal or partial removal of the cross member. I'm still waiting on this one.

If you armed your car and lost remote but just want to use spare key to start it. unlock door alarm will sound. get inside close door. wait until alarm shuts off. after about 10- 15 seconds. start car. If car does not start wait for alarm to cycle. then try to start again. Once started your alarm will never bother you unless you use remote to arm it. I have been without remote for 2 years and no alarm problems.

You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library -- make copies of the right sections as they are usually only available in the REFERENCE section...good luck :)

The Haynes manual says to carefully pry the cover loose.

Their illustration shows them using a bent screwdriver kinda looking thing

with a wide "V" shaped blade. I've seen that tool somewhere, but I don't remember where. Woodworking, maybe? For prying molding loose?

You get the idea, I'm sure.

I guess I'd move the tool around the perimeter, loosening a little at a time.

The bulb replacement is pretty obvious.

FriPilot

by looking at the owners manuel it give you specs.195/70/14 or 205/65/15 depending on model year country.

R12 is original equipment

The cost to replace a water pump on a Toyota Cressida varies by location. As of 2014 the average cost of this repair is between 189.99 and 249.99.

Yes

It's 3417 lb / 1550 kg

Check directly below the trunk. It should have two wheels/tires attached. No charge, you're welcome.