Toyota Previa

check the Distributor.

There is an 02 sensor ahead of the catalytic converter and one downstream of it.

There is a hump in the middle of the dash above the radio and fan controls. Feel for a latch between the underneath part of the dash and the beginning of the black control panel. Push up on the latch. It may take a harder push than one would think. I hope this helps you!

If it is surging on acceleration and you feel a slip or vibration it probably needs a SAD shaft repair. Mine vibrates under acceleration, but then will disappear for awhile. I have a 1997 and found a SAD kit online for around $200.00. A Toyota dealer in town said they could install it for around $600.00. I have heard a more expensive fix is to replace the whole SAD shaft, which costs around $1200 at the dealer. The repair kit just replaces the loose bushings which cause the vibration.

The fuse box on a 1990 Toyota Hiace is located on the driver's size below the steering wheel. The fuse box has a cover over it.

All the fuses are located in the center dashboard. To remove it, find the clip under the center of the lip and press it up.

hi,

Its very simple all you need to do is pop up your boot then looks down the side of the rubber seal and theres 2 black screws un screw them then wobles the whole light / indictaor casing once it pops out ull see 2 white is light bulb holders which come out by twising it a a bit and will pop out and its the same for but opporsite for putting it back to gether

it is under the passenger seat

lift tailgate and look for two screws and remove them, and then turn the bulb housing right and oull out

two things..the ignition switch its worn out and need replacment or the selenoid inthe starter its going bad, need to replace starter,one or the other,,

If you are doing it yourself, the best pricing I've found for parts is at www.rockauto.com - you can buy semi-loaded or fully-loaded (with pads) calipers there. Installation is quite simple but you'll probably have to get the rotors (discs) resurfaced too, which would mean removing them and taking them to a brake shop. If the rotors are under sized (too badly worn) you will have to replace them. You can also buy replacement rotors at the same place as the calipers.

Doing it yourself, call around to different auto parts stores to get prices.

A repair shop that specializes in brake repair will charge anywhere from about $500.00 to $900.00. The trouble here is finding a shop that you can trust.

You can't. You must wear your seatbelt. You CAN! It is very simple it is a Blu/White plug under seat with grey/grey-blu wires on a 2008 CRV that only seem to operate that idiotic, stressfull gadget for handicapped like the ones who answered first above... Personally I chose that car ALSO on the possibility to be able to remove it. For those who have not such a good car and must put up with this handicapped option, I suggest a great solution: to get a spare male buckle for a couple of $ from a wrecker and plug it in instead of yours. it must match your female plug though. If not you can always cut those wires at the seat buckle but if the car is new I am more reluctant to do it. A sparky can then certainly put a little switch for you too if you want to re-enable it at soem stage... god knows why... Basically Honda is showing that us that they HAD to put it in but recognise it is useless. I am still wondering how dumb or dishonest all those Honda service people are, to tell us it is not possible... It is YOUR car you have the right to choose what YOU want and DON'T want in it. You are repsonsible for it though. Drive safely.

well I have a similar problem with the estima ACR55. Unfortunately the imported model into Malaysia is all in Japanese and there is minimal help online for an English version.

what I did was, disconnected the battery for 30secs. than reconnected and it had reset itself. it has been a couple of days now. you could try it.

Raise the hood, remove the inlet shroud to the blower housing, then remove the top half of the radiator fan shroud. Next start removing the screws that hold a protective cover that is below the blower motor. There are 4 screws and one bolt that secure this. Let this cover drop down and then the blower resistor can be seen behind the blower motor. Remove the electrical connection plug and then the two screws that hold the resistor in place. Go to this site for great Previa info: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/previa/

Remove the engine fuse for 10 seconds and put them back simple

get under the car behind the driver seat along side the reail remove the cover plate that cover the distruibutor reach up and find three screws on the distruibuitor cap un screw them ,remove the cap ,take the rotor out and replace it

Under the hood on the left side. Fuel pump relay and Super charge relay is next to each other

under the throttle body. Has a green sensor attached to it. Can't miss it.

Under the front passenger seat

Answer: busted door switch/switches.

The fuel filter on the 1992 Toyota Previa is located about 1/2 way down the vehicle on the driver side (just about even with the end of the driver side door). It is mounted on the frame about 8 inches in. To give myself more space to get my ratchet in and wrenches, the first thing I did was remove the plastic protective cover from the bottom of the van that is about 4 ft long. I believe there were 5 or 6 bolts that I had to remove. After that was removed, I removed the bottom bolt from the fuel filter. This released the line that goes from the gas tank to the fuel filter. GAS CAME OUT OF THIS LINE UNTIL I HAD THE END OF THE LINE ELEVATED. I used a zip tie through the hole in the end of the line and attached the line to another line that was running under the van. This stopped the flow of gas and also got the line out of my way. Next I removed the two bolts that attached the fuel filter to the frame of the van. Third, I removed the bolt from the top of the fuel filter. After the fuel filter was removed from the vehicle, you need to remove the mounting bracket from the old fuel filter and re-attach it to the new fuel filter. There are small raised ridges on the fuel filter and these need to be lined up with the ridges on the mounting bracket. You are almost ready to re-attach the new fuel filter to the vehicle. BEFORE YOU REATTACH THE FUEL FILTER, YOU'LL NOTICE THAT THE TWO BOLTS THAT WERE REMOVED FROM THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE FUEL FILTER ARE HOLLOW AND HAVE HOLES THAT GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE BOLT BELOW THE THREADS. THESE HOLES MUST LINE UP WITH THE HOLES IN THE LINES THAT ENTER AND LEAVE THE FUEL FILTER. I took a black felt tip permanent marker and made a line across the top of the bolt that was parallel to the hole through the bolt. That way when I tightened up the bolt to the fuel filter I was able to see where to stop so that the gasoline could flow through the line, through the bolt and into and out of the fuel filter. I found that it was easiest to reattach the top bolt and line to the new fuel filter first. Make sure that there is a washer (provided with the new fuel filter) on the top and bottom of each line that is attached back to the fuel filter. Next I reattached the line from the gas tank to the fuel filter. Try and keep the line at an angle so that it doesn't leak gasoline. Finally reattach the new fuel filter to the frame. Don't forget to reattach the black plastic protective shield to the bottom of your van. Start up your van and let it run for about 5 minutes to make sure that you don't havfe any leaks. Good Luck. El filtro de gasolina esta situado atras del piloto por el lado de abajo, este filtro es con una campana de 10 cm de largo y unos 6 cm de diametro

I just replaced mine on a 2001 Rav 4 with 61,300 miles; it was showing wear -cracks etc.

Pretty tricky. But you need to buy the manual. It is all there.

The thing to consider is that the shock is actually a strut. The strut assembly includes the spring. You have to remove the entire strut assy to replace the strut. To remove the strut assy, first the tire has to come out. Then, disconnect the brake line, unless there is a bracket that allows you to just slide it out. Then remove the three nuts on top of the strut. The tricky part here is that access to those three nuts are tight, so you have to disconnect some ducts, access panels and brackets under the glove compartment. Once the three nuts are out, remove the bolt attaching the strut to the bottom arm.

You need a heavy duty spring compressor to separate the strut from the assy.

You will need to go to a repair shop and have them scan for codes. That will tell them the problem and when it is repaired they can reset the light.

I am sure to remove the wheel bearing would first need to remove the half shaft.

Remove the brakes, the brake line & emergency brake cable. Remove the 4 retaining nuts on brake backing plate. Remove rear axle half. Will lose a little oil. Probably need to drain differential oil and refill with new oil when job is completed.

Will need a hydraulic press to remove and replace the bearing (machine shop).

Reinstall half shaft with new bearing on it.

Better think about replacing both rear bearings especially if you have high mileage.