Toyota Tercel

i have a 99 tercel, help?

First, pop the hood. The speedometer cable screws onto the transmission on the top side. It might help to unclamp and move the hose leading from the air cleaner to the throttle body. Reach down behind the engine and unscrew the speedometer cable from the transmission.

Next, remove the instrument panel. In order:

A few screws on the bottom side of the steering column

The plastic panel at the bottom side of the steering column

The plastic panel at the top of the steering column

This one's kinda tough, but it can be removed without removing the steering wheel first.

A few screws on the underside of the trim surrounding the instrument cluster

It's hard to describe what plastic piece this is, but if you were to grab the dashboard by reaching around the steering wheel, the screws would be where your thumbs are.

This plastic piece

You need to disconnect the leads going to the dash light dimmer on your left, and the emergency flashers on your right. With enough trying, you can get it past the steering wheel.

The instrument cluster itself

There should be three or four screws holding it in place. Just pull it forward enough for you to get your hand behind it.

Unplug the speedometer cable from the instrument cluster. Then pull it through the firewall (while standing outside of the car. Don't try to pull it into the car).

Install everything in the reverse order.

Check your power steering fluid level , belt tension if ok replace pump The power steering pressure lines travel from the p/steering pump on the passenger side of the engine to just beneath the radiator (in the frame that holds the radiator) then the 2 lines go accross and underneath the radiator frame to the drivers side and then to the steering column. This course does place the lines in a somewhat exposed area vunerable to rocks/ledges that might be hit in a field. My lines flexed a bit then rusted thru where they were bent. I have to replace or weld/solder them yet as there is a leak there. TC

Fuel filter is located on firewall just a little to the right looking at center of firewall when looking from under the hood.Be careful if you plan to replace because lines are under pressure even when engine is not running.Fuel lines are mounted on top and bottom of filter. Filter is about the size of baby food jar and black in color (mostly).

After seeing this question asked a dozen times, and halfway answered a few times, I decided to put together a comprehensive 'how-to' for this common defect.

I have replaced every window regulator in my 1996 grand marquis at least once, the driver door 3 times. I can do it in the dark. Don't do any of this until you are sure you need a new regulator assembly. If you can slide the glass up and down a good bit by hand, you probably need this. If the window works OK but gets jammed or cock-eyed during up/down motion, you have a different problem. If the window motor doesn't do anything at all, check that first.

New replacement regulators can be found for about $30 delivered on eBay, they are superior to the OEM part.

First you need to understand that it could be either the regulator OR the motor causing your problem ...even if you hear the motor turning and trying to raise the glass it could still be a bad motor (actually bad nylon gears within the motor assembly.)

Step one is to remove the door panel and speaker:

-Pry out the 'cup' behind your door opening handle.

-Gently remove the window switch panel. It should pop up and out, then disconnect all those wires.

-Remove the screw you just revealed that goes into the door frame.

-Remove screws on both ends of the pull handle (behind molded rubber plugs)

-Remove the screw hidden in a tunnel at the bottom of the door.

-Lift the door panel straight up (slide it up along the door.) It should pop up about an inch or so without much effort, if not look for hidden screws.

-Pivot the bottom of the door panel out a few inches, then lift up a little more to remove it. Disconnect any remaining wire harnesses.

-Carefully set door panel aside.

-Door speaker is mounted to a molded plastic housing, like a spacer. There should be three screws securing the housing to the door, remove these screws and remove the speaker (don't forget to disconnect it.)

-Carefully (and I mean carefully) start at the bottom and peel back the plastic sheet covering the door. You'll glue or tape this back into place so don't tear it up. Don't completely remove it, leave the top glued to the door, you'll thank me later. I just roll it up and tape it back.

After you get the door panel and speaker mounting off take a good look at what's going on in there. The regulator is basically a metal track that runs from top to bottom with a cross plate that slides up and down on cables and holds the glass. The motor itself is remotely mounted and connected by cables.

The motor is attached to the regulator by nothing more than cables. The motor is mounted to the inner door skin (three Torx screws that go through the door skin, through the motor assembly, and thread into the nylon cable housing.) These screws not only hold the motor assembly to the door, they also hold the motor assembly to the regulator. Don't grind off the rivets in that vicinity, you don't need to. Just pull the three Torx screws and have a hand ready to catch the motor assembly inside the door. Carefully slide the motor assembly from the regulator housing and take it out. Before going any further, test your motor. If you can twist it by hand, it's bad. Reconnect it's wires and press the window button. If it seems to work and sound good then you can reuse the motor. If you question it at all, replace it. The $ spent is worth avoiding this hassle a second time.

There are two rivets (yes, rivets) that secure the glass to the regulator, perhaps the most idiotic thing Ford has ever done. There is only a very small window of opportunity to get access to these, the window has to be in just the right place to line both of these rivets up with their access holes (for removal AND installation.) You may have to manually pull the window to the right position. If the regulator is adequately screwed up, the cables could be bound and make moving the window impossible. May have to cut the cables. Whatever you have to do, get the holes lined up for access. Pop the heads off these rivets without breaking the glass, this is a trick. I use a large high-speed metal drill bit to get the head off, just drill dead center until it comes off. If the drill even kisses the glass, it shatters. Good luck with that. Once the glass is detached from the regulator, lift it out by pivoting it forward, then sliding it out from outside the door. I don't know how better to describe that, just figure it out. Set it safely aside.

The regulator assembly is held on by two rivets at the bottom and two nuts at the top. At the top of the door is a metal bar, like a grab handle but sharp and ugly. Behind it are two holes and in each hole is a nut that holds the top of the regulator in place. Remove those two nuts and set them aside. Remove the two rivets holding the bottom of the regulator in place, then you should be able to wiggle the regulator assembly out through the large access hole.

Installation is pretty much the reverse of removal.

-*Advised* lubricate the window channels while the glass is out. WD-40 doesn't work, grease doesn't either. I found that stuff like Pledge or Orange Oil works good if you can get enough in the channel.

-Remove all debris (rivet pieces and whatever) from the door cavity or rattles will drive you nuts later.

-Put the regulator in, loosely attach top nuts.

-Pop new rivets into lower mounting points, use bolt/nut if you don't have a rivet gun (about $9 you tightwad.)

-Install motor assembly (those three torx screws) and connect it's power source. Make sure it goes up/down as expected by plugging the switch panel back in and testing. Run the regulator to it's lowest position for installing the glass.

-Carefully slide glass back into door frame. Make sure glass is in track both front and rear. Notice the angle cut in the glass at the back bottom? That's to help pivot it into place... Slide glass to fully raised position and tape it in place or have someone strong enough hold it up. Then carefully move regulator into proper position that gives you access to mount the window.

-Reattach glass to regulator (I always use bolts with nylock nuts and thick nylon washers instead of more rivets.)

-Tighten top two nuts, make sure regulator assembly is very secure.

-Run window up and down, make sure it moves freely ...adjust if not.

-Reattach the plastic sheet that was rolled up earlier, use spray adhesive or duct tape. Looks don't matter, you won't see it but you WILL feel the hot/cold air if you don't get this plastic sheet back on good.

-Replace the speaker housing, reconnect wires.

-When putting the door panel back on the tricky part is the lock that sticks up and out the top. It's tough to line up. I found it easiest to unscrew the pretty chrome cap and shove a length of small I.D. scrap hose over the threaded stud. Then I can use the hose to pull the lock up through the hole as I set the door panel on.

-Start with the top of the door panel, make sure it is in it's groove at the top and the lock is through it's hole, then let it pivot down against the door. Once this looks good, gently lift up on the bottom of the door (sliding it up against the door) until you can engage the other 'hooks' and settle the door panel back to the right place. Make sure it all looks right, may have a hook not engaged.

-Reconnect wiring, test again. If you connected the wrong connectors together, some things won't work. Color coordinated?

-Replace removed screws & trim panels

...now go spend that $150 you just saved on something more fun.

FYI - I had a bad alternator. Apparently, a failed alternator may/can/will cause the battery AND brake warning lamps to come on. Alternator has been replaced, and all warning lamps cleared.

Remove entire air cleaner system (box,filter,snorkel.)

Thermostat housing is located just next to distributor. (has hose connected to it.)

Using a 10mm socket remove the two bolts holding the housing to block.

Before pulling housing away from engine you will need a catch pan under the car below thermostat. You will lose about 1/2 a gallon of anti-freeze.

Now pull housing back from engine to expose the thermostat,noting how it is sitting in there, remove and replace with new one, be sure to remove and replace the rubber gasket that fits around the thermostat to seal it. You will NOT need liquid sealant aka blue glue in this application. Replace in opposite order.

When all is put back together, top off coolant and leave radiator cap off for now.

Start the car, turn on defroster on high,and hot.

Allow car to reach operating temp.( about 180 deg.)While checking thermostat area for leaks.

When coolant starts moving aggressively then thermostat has opened and you can top off coolant again if necessary.

Replace radiator cap.

Drive away happy. This should take no more then about 1hr.

35-38

12 and 3/4 miles ....

It is at the outlet of the upper radiator hose where the hose connects to the engine. Causes for replacement are no readings at the temp guage or very slow reaction time of this guage after you start up the engine. It could take up to 15 to 20 minutes for the correct temp to come up even if the thermostat is working properly. If you had the car from new you would have noticed this temp coming up sooner. It is taken out with a 12 metric wrench. Replace with an original sensor from toyota as a replacement will not work properly causing the engine light to come on!

I just did it on my lunch hour. First you need to release any back pressure by leaving the car off and open the throttle a couple of times. Not too much so you don't flood the engine. Its also a good idea to wear safety glasses. The filter is located under your hood near the power steering res. Its shiney black and looks more like a air coditioning component. Due to the high pressure situation Toyota didn't take any chances, so you may have to put a lot of muscle into the bottom threaded intake port. Be sure you have good open ended box wrench to hold this with.I found it easier to remove the outlet side first.(top side), then remove the mounting bracket, find a tight fitting open end wrench to turn the filter @ the bottom rather than turning the fitting ( because of tight clearance). Be very careful to replace the brass seal ring/s back in there proper inlet/ outlet lines these are extremely critical for safety. You will find that installation is much easier then removal.This is a very high quality filter(and Expensive). After 300,000 miles I just flushed mine out W/ heptane followed by compressed air and still works like a charm. I couldn't recommed this to anybody else, I'm just cheap!

code 51 is a switch condition signal diagnosis no IDL signal or A/C signal to the ecm when the test connector E1 and TE1 are connected probable cause A/C switch or circuit A/C amplifier neutral start switch (A/T) throttle position sensor throttle position sensor circuit to fix i am not sure what one is wrong but i gave you what it is by my code book

Yes, it is the small senor about the size of a car alarm remote with a four pin connector and a single vaccum hose connected to it. It is located on the firewall just to the right of the intake.

Clock and Radio, i had a small short on my tercel and i blew my radio and dashboard clock, now they are not working, trying to replace that fuse..

i have a 92 tercel and to be totally honest i relly dont think that the 92 tercel has power steering, mine dosent Ummm...yes they do. At least, mine does. I just replaced the power steering pump and belt. The pump is on the passenger side. (I have a 92 Tercel, 5-speed manual transmission w/AC.)

two methods; one: disconnect the lower ball joint from the wishbone so the entire strut can pivot forward, put your wheel on and give it a swift jerk. two: use a large pry bar and pry against the inside c/v joint and the transmission body. the stub shaft has a small spring ring which needs to collapse in it's groove in order for it to come out. when re-installing it, make sure the stub shaft goes all the way in so the spring ring can expand and home the shaft in place. a word of caution: on some transaxles if you pull both shafts, the carrier could drop so do one shaft at a time or use a tight fitting round stick to hold everything so you can stab the shafts back in without having to fish around for alignment.

Can it be done? Yes. Should it be done to a stock 1.5L Tercel motor?

No.

Here's why, and do take this advice as it will save your motor.

The toyota tercel as it is, is a japanese domestic economy car.

Meaning, this is a car that was never intended to be anything other than a work-home-work-home car.

That's just the common sense application for a vehicle this small.

From an engineering standpoint, the tercel's high-compression (10.0:1, 10.1:1, 11:1) Means that you can't run a very high boost even IN the event you manage to work around the rusted bolts and low hood clearance.

The engine components were meant to accept tolerance from a tiny..TINY 90HP motor and as such it is engineered with components with a low stress tolerance.

The transmission's gearing is NOT.. i repeat .. *NOT* intended for ANYthing higher than 120HP, worse yet, there are ZERO transmission build-up kits or Gearset kits for the tercel, so even after your successful (HUGE airquotes) turbo installation.. you are at the mercy of components that may not survive the power-transmission to your driveline components.

That's not to say that you shouldn't go for it, just be aware that you are looking at a hefty pricetag and a lot of wrench hours just getting the motor ready for the turbo, and even then there will be that constant fear that your transmission will snap itself apart.

So, again. It IS Possible, but just keep the idea in your head that less is more. LOW boost only.

Best of luck!

-Evil Tim

Dirty fuel filter, on the front, right corner of the tank, up in the recess.

very carefully

the am1 fuse feeds the Ignition1 circuit. Which includes the power feed to the fuel system and engine igntion system. If the AM1 fuse is blowing but the IGN fuse isnt, It is a short between the IGN fuse and the Am1 fuse which includes the ignition switch. To fix you have to trace through the circuit to every connection, disconnecting out feeds and testing as you go to see where the power feed gains continuity with the ground. Then you found the short which is blowing the AM1 fuse. Fix the problem you found and then your good to go.

I would suggest you try to find the manufacturer of your tachometer on the web and check out their support site and email them if needed for your particuliar vehicle. For instance below is a link to Autometer's Tech Tip web site however unless you own an Autometer Tach this may be useless to you. There are so many different ignition systems today that it would be difficult to explain each. So its best to get the info from the pro's. , EzForJesus

http://hp.autometer.com/techtips/techtips.html

It's really easy. First you need to find wich wire on the tachometer is the coil signal. Take the black wire and put it on the ground of a 9V batterie then try all the other wires on the positive side of the battery until the RPM move. this is your coil wire. Go on the engine compartiment and find the coil. Start the car. Whit a test lamp try all the wire on the coil until you find the one who flash. Plug the coil wire (on the tachometer) on this wire and the black one on a nice ground. Finally plug the other wire(s) to a 12v source who works only with the key at the RUN position. And it's done

You use a ratchett?

Yes it is. http://www.toyoland.com/cars/tercel.html DOHC engines are generally going to be interference.

It is in the fuse box. Check all of the fuses with a test light.

All four are on the top of the engine.the first two are easy to get to the second two are under the coils. There is a series of four pluggs two of which are screwed down. Unscrew these and you can easily remove the first two pluggs. The second two arnt as easy. The connecters arnt screwed down, but under are the coils you have to remove them with a special tool to get to the spark pluggs underneath.