Turbo and Superchargers

Located in the back of the engine on the driver's side next to the O2 sensor connector.

modifying or installing an adjustable wastegate.

yes

cut a hole in your air filter and then mount it securely and your good to go make sure you use elmers school only cause it will secure it tightly but able to take off in the future also buy an hks ssqvbov cause its the only one that will work

On a non turbo, there is no pressure to "blow off". So a blow off valve would not do anything.

yes, they can be installed in the same car. I do believe that Volkswagen is coming out with a new car, Golf GTI Fahrenheit that is has both a turbo and supercharger in it and i think they call it "twincharging".

Its legal on the track but not on the road

Z6 block. Y8 head. Y8 tranny

Supercharger kits can cost anywhere from four thousand to five thousand dollars. The price depends on where you purchase the kit and how good the kit is.

Pump gasoline is a blend of several hydrocarbons, obtained in the refining of crude oil. A few of these are nonane, heptane, butane, octane, etc. Pure octane is the slowest burning of those used and the least likely to "explode" or detonate in the engine when ignited. Detonation causes mechanical damage and lowers fuel economy. The octane rating of any pump grade of gasoline is comapared to pure octane. 87 octane fuel is lower than 93 octane and will burn faster (not good). 100 octane is equivalent to pure octane in burn rate. Pure octane would be too expensive to use, so a blend of several hydrocarbons is used for various reasons. Hydrogen, I would think might burn way too fast in an unmodified gas engine, but have never read about any studies on this.

MLS head gaskets or o-ring the block/head

It would be a waste of time and money. You would have to make a special adapter to hook the exhaust to the manifold. On a turbo header, the exhaust hooks to the turbo and the turbo to the manifold.

Simple question, but not so simple to answer.

If you are talking about upgrading your car, you may not have much of a choice. Many cars have only one type of kit available, usually because its more popular for that car. For example, there are many turbo kits for a Nissan z, and virtually no supercharger kits. Conversely, there are many supercharger kits for the ford mustang and very few turbo kits.

Mechanically a supercharger is simpler. It uses energy from the drive belt to compress air into the engine intake. The faster the engine spins, the more pressure there is on the intake.

A turbocharger does the same thing, but instead of using a belt to connect to the engine, the turbo uses exhaust pressure to drive the compressor.

For raw performance, a supercharger is better. It can add more power than a turbo and the power is available through more of the rev range. Adding a supercharger will significantly decrease your fuel economy, however. In addition, a supercharger may wear out your engine faster.

A turbo, when driven normally, will not decrease fuel efficiency at all (and on highways can actually IMPROVE fuel efficiency). The disadvantage of a turbo is that you really only get a power boost in the high revs (4000 or more for most turbos). The bigger the turbo, the higher you have to rev for it to kick in.

Because of this, turbos are better suited to manual transmissions, so you can shift down and keep the engine in the "turbo sweet spot". Nothing is more frustrating than putting your foot down in an automatic turbo and waiting for the transmission to shift down so you can go.

The BOTTOM LINE is that turbos deliver better efficiency and plenty of power, but for raw performance, superchargers usually go farther, especially with automatic transmissions.

I assumer you are talking about the 2.2 litre turbo engine. There are a few ways to get more power out of this engine. The most common way is to increase the pressure of the air which is being forced into your engine. This can be done by utilizing the wastegate.

If the turbo leaks oil, it needs to be rebuilt. The leak may be caused by a problem with the vehicle, though - turbos use dynamic (gapped) metal piston rings. They are seals, but they are pressure seals, so they don't really "leak" as much as "fail."

It is a person preference question, what do you want from the system?

I would recommend if you want...

low end torque/ throttle response- Kenne bell/whipple screw supercharger

A daily driver that you want close to stock cruising/part throttle characteristics, but more power when you need it - go turbo.

How much power a turbo can support can be determined by it's flow, lbs/min. It takes 10lbs/min per 100hp. That HP rating is only obtainable if your motor would use that amount of air at that pressure ratio. Garrett, borgwarner, squirrelpf.com have turbo calculators to help determine which one will work for your engine package.

Blow-Off Valve

this is also know as dohc this is to make the engine more fuel efficient and also to give a little more kick to the engine when you lay in to it using both valves allow the engine to bring in more gas at high rpms and let out the exhaust the same way these are in the newer engines because with dohc there is less chance for thing to brake and make the engine more powerful then a regular sohc

Yes

There are many ways of making a car faster, most of them are either expensive or labor intensive though. Some of these increase power, or you can do something to the transmission, lower the car, change it's shape, or remove weight.

yes, a T3 super 60 size would be good for daily/stock engine up to about 275hp, then a TE04 50trim.

Most things like that ARE possible, if you're able to throw enough money on the problem.

But usually, it'll be cheaper simply to sell the non-turbo car and buy a turbo car instead. There are a lot of other changes than merely slapping on a turbo, and they'll all cost time and money to do.

Low current detected by ECU (such as an open or higher then expected resistance).

Yes and No.

Intercoolers cool air that is compressed in a turbo.

You can setup an intercooler on a non turbo car and have it connected to the air intake and such...

.....it will rob you of horsepower by sending air through a lot of unnecessary tubes.

This question is unanswerable without a wide array of specifics. It is unanswerable. In GENERAL. Regardless, you can expect a minor decrease in spool time, and a LARGE decrease across the rest of the powerband with a Log type manifold. From there a 4-2-1 will INCREASE the spool time a small amount and give somewhat more power. A 4-1 manifold will give the longest spool time of all (this is almost non-existant, but there) the three manifold types, and a LARGE increase in power avalible across the powerband. A classic modern example would be your typical 200hp, 8,000rpm shutoff small displacement Honda engine. It is widely proven and understood that swapping from a log manifold to a 4-1 manifold will increase the spool rate 200-400rpm, with a 30-40 horsepower gain any point afterwards. That is a VERY large difference in both peak power, and powerband. The same rules of thumb will apply to any other cylinder arrangement. If possible all cylinders should merge at the same collector IMMEDIATELY before the turbine entry. That being said there is a SERIOUS amount of turbulence when you try to merge more than 5 exhaust ports. That makes the lone contradiction to the "rule of them" in that a 6-2-1 manifold is always better than a 6-1 manifold. All things being equal. ANSWER it will make the "turbo lag" time longger